Show all posts by user
http://reprap.org/wiki/CoreXY
Re: how thick should linear rods/extrusions be - 6 years ago
Fair point. The load will be a possibly direct drive extruder and light duty router (MDF). I'm thinking 10-12mm rods or 2020 extrusion. 2020 seems like plenty, I could even go smaller maybe, I'm not too sure about the rods. For the 2020 I'll be rotating the rods 45 degrees along their axis, so the longest dimensions (diagonals) line up with the direction of the load (vertical and horizontal).by Trakyan - Reprappers
how thick should linear rods/extrusions be - 6 years ago
I'm considering building a printer with a crossing axis type gantry, like the ultimaker but the axis will be driven differently. The bed will be around 350 square and I'm thinking about using v slot or carbon tubes for the linear motion. They each have their perks but my main question is how thick should each be for the span I'm wanting. I think they can afford to be thinner than usual as the loaby Trakyan - Reprappers
Auto Calibration Help (not exactly sure where to post this) - 6 years ago
I'm working on an auto calibration routine for GUS Simpson style printers. This will be a routine to calibrate everything from the maximum arm extension (analogous to endstop correction on linear deltas) to steps/mm. The first step in this is working out the height of the effector. Each arm basically represents a length, more specifically the radius of a sphere. The intersection of these spheresby Trakyan - Reprappers
Re: Custom Build Bed - 6 years ago
Anet uses their own board, and possibly their own (derivative) firmware, so look for the official firmware to see if it's released. There should be a config file in amongst it somewhere. I can't really give you any detailed instructions as I've never used an anet. I know there is someone in the community who made a modified firmware for the A8, "skynet firmware" that included auto bed leveling, sby Trakyan - General
Re: Printer Homing (microswitches and delta peculiarities) - 6 years ago
I know it's probably a complicated matter, but could you give me a quick overview of how least squares works and what it actually calibrates for? As for the GUS Simpson, I've got a calibration routine in mind that involves homing each arm to the same (but unkown) length required to reach the opposite edge of the bed. From there by probing a known XY coordinate I should be able to use the ratio oby Trakyan - General
Re: Features for a "Perfect" entry level printer? - 6 years ago
If you can detect the loss of steps the print isn't lost, there will be a blemish but not a lost print. The prusa is doing this to detect layer shifts and recover. I personally don't like the idea of brushed servos, and I think a lot of industries are moving away from them for noise/dust issues. Another thing with these servos is they are usually high speed, geared down in order to allow preciseby Trakyan - General
Re: Printer Homing (microswitches and delta peculiarities) - 6 years ago
By doesn't inspire me with confidence, I meant more that I didn't really like the look or sound of the motors slamming into and continuing to barge against the hard stops for a while. I have no doubts that it works, it's just not something most people will want to see or hear from their printer and new users will probably think something is wrong. And I think with proper belt tension the motor wiby Trakyan - General
Re: A fixed-bed gantry design - 6 years ago
It seems like what you have configured is similar to the H style gantry most replicator clones/coreXY etc use, except with the x gantry on stilts and a head that plunges in the z axis. Why not move the y axis up above the bed as well and connect the x axis straight to it? Nice to see some more stationary bed cartesian printers out there, I'm looking to build a large format printer myself and donby Trakyan - Reprappers
Re: Features for a "Perfect" entry level printer? - 6 years ago
I think there are still (expensive) improvements to be made in reliability, like servo control and for ease of use I think some printers like the craftbot have prusa and the others beat in terms of easy to use. LCD displays with click wheels aren't hard to use, but a full color touch screen is much easier and more intuitive for people who have never touched a 3d printer. They have made some (in mby Trakyan - General
Re: Custom Build Bed - 6 years ago
Your printer might have limits configured in firmware that are stopping it, so that's something to check.by Trakyan - General
Printer Homing (microswitches and delta peculiarities) - 6 years ago
I'm designing a GUS simpson derivative printer right now, and I've managed to minimize wiring mess, with all but the hotend wiring fitting and staying under the build platform. The one hiccup with that is that are the microswitches which need to be put around the elbow of each arm joint. While this is the perfect excuse to add some drag chains which I personally think add +15 awesome to any printby Trakyan - General
Re: Features for a "Perfect" entry level printer? - 6 years ago
@DjDemonD Thanks for the info, I think I'll have a look at them. I was planning to use microswitches but didn't quite like how the assembly would work out and the slight bit of slack they would introduce (can't fully tighten down the assembly otherwise you'd permanently trigger the microswitch). Also, you're right, you can't really do all three, that was blind optimism on my part. I guess my maiby Trakyan - General
Re: Features for a "Perfect" entry level printer? - 6 years ago
@DjDemonD I wasn't expecting a short answer, I actually want to thank you for the long one, it was a good and informative read. Out of curiosity, is precision piezo your company's name, the product or both? Also curious to know how to got started up, even if it is a bit off topic. I agree on a lot of those points, that all of the extra hardware to make things reliable would be great for newcomerby Trakyan - General
Re: Features for a "Perfect" entry level printer? - 6 years ago
A lot of those ideas you mentioned do not make for a cheap printer, and I don't think are what define a minimum viable product. As for Chinese printers, they are cheap but again, I'm not asking where to find a cheap printer that "works" but what is the minimum hardware feature set for a printer. I find it odd how people are saying auto leveling shouldnt be included but a lot of other features forby Trakyan - General
Re: Features for a "Perfect" entry level printer? - 6 years ago
I guess I've phrased what I'm asking badly. Given a low budget ($200 tops), something someone who either doesn't have much income or isn't sure if they want to commit to the hobby might want to spend. What features would you include and leave out? Or price aside, what features would be present in the MINIMUM viable product for a beginner have. This does not mean linear guides, 32 bit board with fby Trakyan - General
Re: Features for a "Perfect" entry level printer? - 6 years ago
I wasn't really asking for printer recommendations on what to buy, and there are chinese kits that work pretty reliably out of the box, monoprice, wanhao and so on. I was looking for answers to this question not from a hobbyist, one off perspective, but as if you were to manufacture a printer, that means making those decisions (in which case the toy motors cost cents and nemas still cost upwardsby Trakyan - General
Features for a "Perfect" entry level printer? - 6 years ago
I'm just curious as to what people's idea would be of a "perfect" entry level printer in terms of cost and features. Entry level here meaning people with no experience, no history with 3d printing that don't really know if they want to fully dive into the hobby, or kids wanting to enter the hobby but have no prior experience. Price is a big one I'm keeping in mind, even a couple of hundred buckby Trakyan - General
Re: Large scale (12") 3d printer as my first one...please help 
- 6 years ago
Thanksby Trakyan - General
Re: Large scale (12") 3d printer as my first one...please help - 6 years ago
I've heard about the issues surrounding tevo recently, could you provide a link to someplace that has some more details? I cant seem to find anything on the subject when i try googling it.by Trakyan - General
Re: How much microstepping still makes sense? - 6 years ago
In theory they do increase resolution, but in practice i don't think youll see the benefits since stepper motors arent accurate at that level of microsteping. They do considerably quieten motors though, like you said.by Trakyan - General
Re: Bondtech Extruder Patented? - 6 years ago
Hahaha, stratasys sharing rights to their patents. That's funny. EDIT: Didn't mean to sound rude, though I don't think stratasys would have licensed it out. They might have bought bondtech and started selling the gears (like they did with makerbot and the replicators), but I don't think they'd have licensed it out. Bottom line, I don't think it's patented, a number of companies do it and there aby Trakyan - General
Re: How much microstepping still makes sense? - 6 years ago
even 1/16 microstepping isn't any good for increasing resolution. Look at the motor's spec sheet, some motors can be out by as much as a full step at any given time so expecting accuracy to 1/16 of a step is ridiculous, let alone under static or (worse) dynamic load. There was a HaD write up where someone did some empirical testing on this a while ago. Microstepping is really only good for reduciby Trakyan - General
Re: Bondtech Extruder Patented? - 6 years ago
If its is patented, dyze design have infringed on the patent (as well as printrbot) as they also use a dual drive design. I dont think its patented but as far as I'm aware they went closed source. I dont think you can patent something as straight forward as the number of hobbed gears used to push filament. Plus, as 691 said, mig welders have used similar systems in the past and i believe so has sby Trakyan - General
Re: Decent, low priced Prusa/Mendel printer? - 6 years ago
If you want to build one of each type, just curious, is that one of each type of machine (core xy, replicator style gantry, ultimaker style, delta, scara, polar) or just to have one cartesian, one delta and one scara/polar. Depending on your answer, is a simpson on the list? As for good prusa/mendel kits I quite like the look of the tevo tarantula. Alumjnium frame is nicer than acrylic and i likeby Trakyan - Reprappers
Re: Batch Printing and alternative methods - 6 years ago
It depends on the parts I guess, small parts would need time to cool yeah but a good fan helps.by Trakyan - General
Re: Batch Printing and alternative methods - 6 years ago
Sounds like you're printing all at once, what you could try is sequential printing, where one part is printed somewhere on the build plate and finished, then you move to another part of the build plate and finish another part etc. That way a failed part has less chance to screwing up the rest of the parts. I think it might also decrease print time since you don't need to constantly travel betweenby Trakyan - General
Re: modularity vs integration in design - 6 years ago
Yeah, and with the GUS Simpson, I'm basically forced to use the same hardware in a lot of places, since most (maybe even all, to be honest) of the bolts in my design go through a bearing and pulley which are all the same size. In some places I could change the size of the bearings and pulleys (a few of them need to be the same size to avoid triangulation error), but that just seems like a silly dby Trakyan - General
Re: modularity vs integration in design - 6 years ago
I'll be using a sort of clamp to hold the motors in place, rather than the m3 holes in the motor body. If that doesn't work out I can add M3 screws for that and mounting the other small bits and pieces like limit switches. I'm not super sure what your other points were though, using a 8mm bolt in place of a 6mm bolt usually isn't a deal breaker, it might be overkill but it wont stop the design frby Trakyan - General
Re: modularity vs integration in design - 6 years ago
I don't have a complete model of the printer, but I can post some stls a bit later of a rough draft of one of the designs for the shoulder (don't have anything for the other designs yet). If you google Gus simpson, the printer in basjng mine off, the shoulder is the part that connects the bottom of the arm to the base of the printer. I'll see if I can post an image highlighting the part a bit latby Trakyan - General
modularity vs integration in design - 6 years ago
So, I like simple, straightforward designs to achieve a goal. A while ago I posted a thread to this end asking about BOMs, and whether it was better to use the 'ideal' part for each purpose at the expense of a complicated BOM, or standardize the parts you use for a simpler BOM. The simpler BOM makes sourcing and assembling easier, but can lead to come compromises in the design. Ultimately I choseby Trakyan - General