QuoteRoberts_Clif I Upgraded to Marlin 2.0.x with My Hictop i3 Prusa MEGA2560 R3 controller that is ramps 1.3/1.4 ramps compatible, I believe it is more of a MKS Style Ramps because it will handle dual extruders. I have installed it on Base v1.3, MPX.3 and MPK V1 controllers. These controllers were previously configured with Marlin 1.x.x #define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_13_EFB #define MOTHEby Schild0r - General
QuoteRoberts_Clif Marlin 2.0.x has the Option to turn the run-out sensor : (" on/off ") through the LCD control. Maybe something like this would better suit your needs. Runout sensor : on/off You are in hte process of updating to marlin may be a good time to jump into Marlin 2.0.x. I have and think it is great!!! I read that marlin 2.0 only makes sense on 32bit boards because marlin automatiby Schild0r - General
QuoteDust Your printing with T0, someone pulls the filament out of T1, (perhaps preparing for the next print) printing stops... I am aware of this and this is a sacrifice I would make. Normally I try not to do anything with the printer until its done printing... My question aimed for the behaviour of marlin: Will marlin start the filament change procedure always for the extruder that is the curby Schild0r - General
Hi there, My machine is running Marlin 1.1.9 with two extruders and I was wondering if I install a filament runout sensor for each extruder and wire them in parallel to only one (endstop-)pin would that work? I imagine it could be possible that once the runout gets triggered and the machine starts the filament change procedure, that it would do that with whatever extruder is the currently activby Schild0r - General
QuoteMKSA When you make a statement, you have to ensure it is correct in order not to mislead people ! You should make the correction, not me. Even APOLOGIZE when you see you are WRONG ! It isn't even in the TFT doc. No need to add to MKS ridiculous claims. Constructive ? Yes, it is. This advice: check your facts don't ask others to prove you are wrong. Are you aware, that it wasn't me makinby Schild0r - CoreXY Machines
Another question I plan on upgrading to these TMC2208 which are rated for 1.2A rms and 2A peak current. And Since the steppers I have are not labeled at all I want to get new ones. I think this question has been asked many times but I am still uncertain about it: are Stepper Motors like these 17HS4401S rated for peak or for rms current? Or simpler: Will these motors cause the drivers to run hoby Schild0r - CoreXY Machines
QuoteMKSA WRONG Well would you please correct the statement then or give any hints on what you think is better? Just commenting "wrong" is neither very constructive nor very nice...by Schild0r - CoreXY Machines
QuoteStlLooking The better idea, IMHO, is using a TFT28 or TFT32 with a RAMPS 1.4 (low cost and works great) or MKS-Gen-L board. The TFT have 32-bit Arm CPUs and they just feed the main board the steps as needed. It is the same process as the Klipper without a Pi. But, you get the added advantage of the touch screen and, also you can use a USB thumb drive instead of SD cards. The heavy liftingby Schild0r - CoreXY Machines
Quotethe_digital_dentist Actually, you start by making the axes square without the belts in place. When you tension the first belt, it will pull the axes out of square, mostly by flexing the X axis, then you tension the second belt just enough to pull them back into square. Yes that was my intention Quotethe_digital_dentist As far as controllers go, the biggest problem with the 8 bit controlleby Schild0r - CoreXY Machines
QuoteErnest1122 If you are not sure your printer can do 90 degree prints, it's better search for other machine's help. It's not impossible, but less confident to expect components self-replicated by a crooked machine will work well. (That's why I use metal service shop for building my machine.) I wanted to have the corner parts of the kinematic being milled... unfortunatley 1600€ is out of my raby Schild0r - CoreXY Machines
Hello everyone, about two years ago I bought the original Flsun cube (this one) But shortly after that I learned about the concept of CoreXY and fell in love with that. I did not want to buy a completely new printer so I wanted to covert the cube to CoreXY. I chose the design of jand1122 (this one) and modified it a bit to fit dual extruders + part cooling, endstops and so on. I really like theby Schild0r - CoreXY Machines
@3DMind have you fixed the problem? I am dealing with the same problem form quite some time and have resignated at some point. I also would like to know which steps you did that made the flat lines appear parallel to y instead of xby Schild0r - CoreXY Machines
Thanks very much for that hint. I will definetly try this but I think I won't get these new belts very quickly... I am not sure if this solves the problem (because it only appears parallel to the x axis ant not to the y axis) but I will definetly change the belts. Maybe I will find the cause of this problem when putting on new belts.by Schild0r - CoreXY Machines
Quoteo_lampe Is a 24 teeth pulley big enough for steel core belts? is it?by Schild0r - CoreXY Machines
Snapped on the A4988 drivers. Unfortunately this made no differenceby Schild0r - CoreXY Machines
Quoteboredom.is.me The lead screws are constrained. Make sure they aren't bent. The ones from the bed? No they are fine Quotethe_digital_dentist Does the machine use DRV8825 drivers Nope as mentioned before I am using the LV8729 nevertheless that might be a point. I will try to snap on the standard polulus again and report back thanks for the hint. Unfortunately I can not test this before wedneby Schild0r - CoreXY Machines
Sorry for my late reply QuoteAre you printing at high speeds? -> No I am printing at about 50-60mm/s QuoteWhat diameter and length are you using for the y rods? -> 8mm Rods for both x(410mm length) and y(425mm length) I would consider the x Axis more stable than y becaus of the two directly connected rods which are also a little shorter QuoteI see white belts. Are you using steel core wiby Schild0r - CoreXY Machines
QuoteWhat acceleration, jerk, speeds, motor currents are you using? #define DEFAULT_ACCELERATION 1000 #define DEFAULT_RETRACT_ACCELERATION 2500 #define DEFAULT_TRAVEL_ACCELERATION 1500 #define DEFAULT_XJERK 9.0 #define DEFAULT_YJERK 9.0 Quite high motor current of 1.4A on MKS LV8729 driversby Schild0r - CoreXY Machines
Hey there, I built a CoreXY after the design of Jand1122 (https://github.com/jand1122/RepRap-XY) into an Flsun Cube But unfortunately when I print some shapes I get a strange behavior which I tried to point out in this picture I am doing this with some filament I only use for calibration stuff and so on so excuse the color... You see that I get "corners" where it stitches the Perimeters Ends.by Schild0r - CoreXY Machines
QuoteTrakyan Did you change anything that could have shifted your rails? Moved/reassembled/tweaked the frame, rail mounts etc. You could have out of parallel rails causing problems with binding. The y axis would be more prone to this I reckon and that matches up with what you're seeing. Only thing I did was install the cable chain and use new cables without dismantling anything that could have aby Schild0r - General
Quoteo_lampe The new belt is the same as before? IIRC there are MXT belts, which have a pitch of 2.03mm vs. GT2 belts with 2mm pitch. At least I bought them as GT2 belts on Amazon... hope they are not mislabeledby Schild0r - General
QuoteTrakyan Maybe you over tightened the belts? Or the new belt clamps are causing some slight misalignment (the effect of this would be worse at the ends of your travel which is what you're seeing). The simple answer to your question is to go back to what worked. Pretty sure they are not misalining cause I designed them not to (same outer measurements) "to go back what worked" is a little bitby Schild0r - General
Hey there, I have a coreXY machine on basis of the flsun cube with modified coreXY parts from jand1122 (see pics ). The printer worked okay but I had to install new belt-clamps to get just a little more tension on the belts. But now after I installed the new belts the y-motor seems to loose steps near the homing point. In the middle of the bed it works fine... This utters in rattling motors whby Schild0r - General
Ich hab den Sensor als PNP Version (der ist dan gelb) ich weiß nicht was das ändern sollby Schild0r - Elektrik & Elektronik
Wenn du eine hast ist das mit der Diode echt simpel. Habs auch so angeschlossen und es funktioniert auf jeden Fall (hab nur montagebedingt manchmal n anderes z offset). Sinn des ganzen ist dem Sensor eine vernünftige Versorgungspannung zu liefern (bessere Reichweite und geringere Abweichung), da die meisten nur von 6-30V (mache auch 10-30V) zuverlässig arbeiten. Wenn du hast schließ den also mitby Schild0r - Elektrik & Elektronik
Hallo zusammen, Ich versuche derzeit ein vernünftiges auto-leveling mithilfe eines induktiven Näherungssensors zu realisieren. Vorab: - Ich habe das Buildtak-Flexplate System (Buildtak auf einem Federstahlblech) also sollte die Materialkomponente keinen großen negativen Einfluss haben (oder?) - Da die meisten induktiven Näherungssensoren eine Betriebsspannung von 6-30 Volt oder 10-30 Volt haben,by Schild0r - Elektrik & Elektronik
So i just wanted to solder the two pads but I noticed, that the TMC2100 I bought are the Version 1.3... they have two additional solder pads on the board. And I found out, that the cfg1 pin is not connected to either of them (but the cfg3 pin is connected to the pads next to the cfg3 pin) Does that mean I cannot run them in spreadCycle at all?by Schild0r - RAMPS Electronics
QuoteDid you notice any difference, when you switched the drivers to stealthChop? Thats a good point! I wasnt sure about which jumper would be the first on my board so I tried both possibilities but did not notice any difference. I did not know there are two different versions I just read that it would not be necessary to install a solder bridge but if that is only true for the black ones thisby Schild0r - RAMPS Electronics
So tried it again with 0.55 A on the x Axis and 0.7 A on the y Axis and I got a shift again as you can see in the pic on both axis after 2 hrs of printing. Drivers werent hot at all and motors were a little warm... So what do Indo now?by Schild0r - RAMPS Electronics
I started at about 0.55 A and got the shifts there too (but already in the second layer) and then increased it to .7 and then 1 A Maybe I should have tried something at .85... I will do another test with 1 A and when I get a shift I will feel if the chip is too hot. I also marked the positions of the pulleys on the rods so I can see if these get loose somehow during the print. I also read that tby Schild0r - RAMPS Electronics