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http://reprap.org/wiki/CoreXY
How much PLA can you push through a brass nozzle.... - 3 years ago
... before it should be changed?by CVRIV - General
Re: My printers are so unpredictable. They won't just print. - 3 years ago
I have two mendal printers made by Alunar. They have M508 control boards that are were replacements for the original boards. They are running an older version of Marlin which I think is v1.1. I forgot which thermistor I specified in the firmware but I want to say I specified 1kΩ thermistors. If the machine says the bed is 70deg, and so does the IR thermometer... I dont understand how anything caby CVRIV - General
Re: My printers are so unpredictable. They won't just print. - 3 years ago
I used an IR thermometer to check the bed and I'm getting 70deg. The extruder I cant get a reading with the IR because its small and insulated. I used to print PLA at 200 to 210. Then I saw a video of a guy recommending that prints should be done at much higher temps. so I tried it and holy hell yea. I don't see why the temp readings would be wrong. I know that the extruder is at 250 or about becby CVRIV - General
Re: My printers are so unpredictable. They won't just print. - 3 years ago
Quotejinx Think I start tinkering with homing speed and ensure the end stop are solid and ain't any slight movement when homing after finishing. You using pla+ just 250c seems a little extreme for pla and you shouldn't need a 70 bed either 40c ample I think I really don't think it's my homing speed. Its not really all that fast and it probes each point twice. I have never had better resultby CVRIV - General
My printers are so unpredictable. They won't just print. - 3 years ago
My machines are so annoying I sometimes ask why I even bother with them. When I print, I have to spend hours finely tweaking the settings to get really good prints. After enough tweaking it will finally give me an awesome print. If I save those settings and fire up the printer the next day etc.... The settings are worth s#%@. I have to tweak again. It's annoying. Now... I think it may have soby CVRIV - General
Re: Steps/ mm calculator. - 3 years ago
Ahhh this all makes sense now. The number of teeth, 20, is the number of the new pulleys I bought for a new machine build. They looked similar to the ones on my old machine so I just assumed they were the same. As for the 20mm cube being a bad idea due to the erroring you explained, that makes perfect sense to me. My bed is about 200mm so I'll print a 100mm test. Thanks so much.by CVRIV - General
Steps/ mm calculator. - 3 years ago
I printed a 20 x 20 x 20mm test cube and the print was amazing and the dimensions were so nearly close. The X and Y measured 19.67mm. I wanted to tweak my steps/ mm so I decided to try the Prusa stepper calculator and yea.... whats going on with that? I had input my parameters: 1.8deg, 2mm pitch, 20T, full step I think?, 2mm pitch belt preset? I told me my steps/ mm was 5. LOL. I changed the micby CVRIV - General
Re: How reliable are eccentric nuts? - 3 years ago
Ok. Thanks. Have you or anyone try locking washer with the nuts?by CVRIV - General
How reliable are eccentric nuts? - 3 years ago
I'm designing a machine that I'm going to replicate four times. I actually designed the entire thing but I'm mkaing changes because there are some things I just dont like. I'm trying to design as much as possible sobi can just print parts. I designed an eccentric nuts and,it worked, but inwas using it improperly so it wpupdnt hold its position. I decided to just save some time by purchasing the nby CVRIV - General
Re: I have a questions about software for a CNC router. - 4 years ago
QuoteOhmarinus Quoteetfrench I use Fusion 360 to generate 3d models and produce the gcode. My CNC router runs LinuxCNC. It's a hard combination to beat for the price. I agree, my colleague uses Fusion360 for all his CAM work now and apparently it's a very good piece of software to master, also for modelling and other CAD work. I got Fusion 360 and it looks a bit like Google Sketchup to me. Ivby CVRIV - General
Re: How does everyone snug their linear bearings without them binding with the rails? - 4 years ago
It's not super hard to design and build these. The biggest thing with cnc routers is that they are rigid and heavy, which is the opposite, except for rigidity, of how one may design and build a 3D printer. I am thinking I may get a spindle that supports a greater RPM and I want to get some fluted bits to cut with so I can see how they compare with the rasping kind. Here's another video after haby CVRIV - General
Re: How does everyone snug their linear bearings without them binding with the rails? - 4 years ago
Exactly. This is literally my first CNC cutter so i purposefully ran it really slow because I didn't know how the machine was going to behave. I ran it super slow and even though I thought I was only cutting a tiny bit, in height per pass, it was still a little bit to much. I'm trying to dial in the distance per revolution now.by CVRIV - General
Re: How does everyone snug their linear bearings without them binding with the rails? - 4 years ago
I got my Red 1419 CNC router cutting. Works great. I had an issue with the z-stepper it came with and the z-stepper replacement I purchased, but I fixed the replacement and its working great.by CVRIV - General
Re: How does everyone snug their linear bearings without them binding with the rails? - 4 years ago
QuoteMKSA The Chicom 3D printers have a flexible frame that prevents to some degree, the bearings from binding too much. They are just noisy, the time it takes to grind the guides enough. Here, the frame seems sturdier, therefore binding is as normal as the poor alignment. It is cheap, isn't ? 0.5" diam is quite strange, not standard, is it US made ? Check if the rods are hardened steel, not sofby CVRIV - General
Re: How does everyone snug their linear bearings without them binding with the rails? - 4 years ago
QuoteOhmarinus QuoteCVRIV Machine is fully built and I nailed it getting to move smoothly. The spacers worked great. Took some time to get it done but it's together tight and moves smoothly. Cool, I don't know about the new machines. It seems every machine has it's own quirks. I have only done DIY machines so far. And I got an old 3D-printer, a Replicator 2x that had pretty bad bushings on it thby CVRIV - General
Re: How does everyone snug their linear bearings without them binding with the rails? - 4 years ago
QuoteMechaBits Is it a problem on all axis, maybe the bolts need to be tightened in diagonal pairs, maybe loosen(or check) rails. Yea it was all of the axis bearing, some worse than others. I could see the misalignment when passing the rod through one bearing to the next. I basically used one hand to slide the rod back and forth continuously while gradually tightening all the bolts down. The carby CVRIV - General
Re: I have a questions about software for a CNC router. - 4 years ago
Ok. Thanks.by CVRIV - General
I have a questions about software for a CNC router. - 4 years ago
I know with 3D printing you need CAD to draw and a slicer to print, but what about CNC routing? I'm a bit confused. I read that there's 3 programs I need: CAD, CAM, and control software. Does the CAM software generate the g-code and the control software accepts the g-code and runs the machine?by CVRIV - General
Re: How does everyone snug their linear bearings without them binding with the rails? - 4 years ago
Machine is fully built and I nailed it getting to move smoothly. The spacers worked great. Took some time to get it done but it's together tight and moves smoothly.by CVRIV - General
Re: How does everyone snug their linear bearings without them binding with the rails? - 4 years ago
I understand. I took apart the machine and I'm working on the z-axis right now and I noticed that the bearings, ever so slightly, are misaligned. It's such a small misalignment but it's so devastating. I made a washer/spacer using craftboard (flat thin cardboard) and sandwiched it between the bearing the the z-axis housing on only the one side. I tightened one bearing down nice and tight as usuaby CVRIV - General
Re: How does everyone snug their linear bearings without them binding with the rails? - 4 years ago
Sorry for the late reply everyone. This is the machine I bought: The rails are 0.5" rods. The bearing housings are the through hole type. The whole thing is made and aluminum and it's heavy. I know that the bearings are to be tight to eliminate play while cutting, but they bind to much. The movement isn't smooth at all. It uses NEMA17 steppers.by CVRIV - General
How does everyone snug their linear bearings without them binding with the rails? - 4 years ago
I purchased a desktop cnc mill so I can prototype my own PCBs. Just the same as when I assembled my 3D printers, when I tightened the bearings for this machine, they bound up tightly with the rails. Everything could be moved but the movement was not smooth by no means whatsoever. If I completely loosen up all the bearing bolts, its so smooth, but the machine is obviously wobbly. This machine useby CVRIV - General
Re: Streaks before / after holes etc... - 4 years ago
Oh god. I'm so upset. 10 hours of printing and the parts are severely warped. I can't use these. What a waste. I have my print bed set to 65. Do you think I should raise the temp or just use PVA glue to fix this problem? I need to modify these parts to be thinner.by CVRIV - Printing
Re: Streaks before / after holes etc... - 4 years ago
Quotethe_digital_dentist The height of the plastic on the first layer is determined by the height of the nozzle above the bed. If the height is varying, there's a mechanical problem. I only having this issue when I'm printing holes etc though. Can't be a mechanical issue.by CVRIV - Printing
Re: How to adjust the nozzle proximity when auto leveling? - 4 years ago
Figured it out.by CVRIV - Firmware - Marlin
How to adjust the nozzle proximity when auto leveling? - 4 years ago
Hello everyone. I'm trying to auto-level my printer and I'm wondering to how to adjust the proximity of the nozzle to the surface? I'm using an inductive probe. Do I adjust the nozzle proximity, for printing the first layer, by adjusting the probe height manually or do I do it in the firmware some how? I tried changing Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER but it doesn't seem to do anything. I manuallyby CVRIV - Firmware - Marlin
Re: Trying to update Marlin on this HY_BASE_L V1.0 board... - 4 years ago
I updated my machine with this version: It's works and I'm pretty sure it's exactly what my buddy used to update my other machine. I just have to go through the config file to enable auto bed leveling etc. Thanks for your help.by CVRIV - Controllers
Re: Trying to update Marlin on this HY_BASE_L V1.0 board... - 4 years ago
Ok....... I got home and compiled Marlin 2 using "#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB" in the default config file. In Arduino IDE I specified board: Arduino Mega or Mega 2560 and processor: ATMega 2560. It compiled and even uploaded it to my board! This firmware isn't working with my machine though because it's unresponsive now. The LCD comes on with all white boxes and that's it. What'sby CVRIV - Controllers
Re: Trying to update Marlin on this HY_BASE_L V1.0 board... - 4 years ago
I was trying to install the latest version of Marlin 2. I don't know what version of Marlin my buddy updated my other machine with. I'm going to ask him and tell him to remember because this is annoying. I'm almost ready to just buy newer more easy to work with boards. I can't stand this guessing game BS. I know that the machine with the updated Marlin has bed auto-leveling, which is what im lookby CVRIV - Controllers
Re: Trying to update Marlin on this HY_BASE_L V1.0 board... - 4 years ago
I found this: This is pretty much what I did using Arduino IDE. It says use Arduino ATMEGA 2560 or..., but when I do it won't compile. This page doesn't mention anything about any uploading errors.by CVRIV - Controllers