QuoteMKSA Quoteklcjr89 Quotemartin1454 im affraid that the goal is a bit ambitious - $30K is a lot( It's the goal required to enter production. Did you think the Nimble Kickstarter was just as ambitious too? Quality costs.. But is there a market for quality ??? If you look here all the 3D printer "new" designs where low cost is a key point, one wonder ? OK, almost none complete, yet no expensby klcjr89 - General
Quotemartin1454 im affraid that the goal is a bit ambitious - $30K is a lot( It's the goal required to enter production. Did you think the Nimble Kickstarter was just as ambitious too? Quality costs..by klcjr89 - General
Quotesungod3k So I looked at magnetic plates which seem to be nice and I just saw a kickstarter for a PEI coated plate, but just looking at the fact that build tak charges upwards of 100$ for a decently sized plate, makes me not want to buy it. I am the creator of that Kickstarter and our prices include the shipping costs, even for international buyers (which is expensive). I think people don'tby klcjr89 - General
We are now offering double sided coated options to satisfy as many people as possible.by klcjr89 - Crowdfunding Projects Announcements
QuoteMKSA Is the PEI directly applied to the steel sheet or is it a PEI sheet plus 3M adhesive (and therefore can be replaced) ? It's PEI coated as the Kickstarter states. It wouldn't be a new product if we were just sticking solid sheets of PEI to the steel with 3M adhesive.by klcjr89 - Crowdfunding Projects Announcements
QuoteSrek While i think the general idea is one of the best (i created such a system for my own use), the price is on the high side. Also you might like to offer additional uncoated but polished plates for filaments that don't work well with PEI. The price isn't high at all, especially when our shipping price (international included) is built into the price. Our flexible magnet is the most expenby klcjr89 - Crowdfunding Projects Announcements
I'm not sure if this is allowed, but I wanted to post a link to my Kickstarter that I just launched for my PEI coated flex-plate system for all 3D printers. I have been working on this for over a year now and I am glad to finally launch it. Here is the link:by klcjr89 - Crowdfunding Projects Announcements
Quotethe_digital_dentist It was a Sarrus linkage. It had same-size top and bottom plates with hinges on all 4 edges between the two plates. I don't know how the screw was arranged. This is the printer you're referring to:by klcjr89 - CoreXY Machines
As far as center of mass in Fusion360, if you right click on a body and choose 'Properties' it will tell you the center of mass coordinates. Alternatively, if you click on 'Inspect' in the top toolbar and choose Center of Mass, it will visually show you where it's at with a glyph. Something I threw together real quick:by klcjr89 - CoreXY Machines
Quotethe_digital_dentist Yes. I like the techniques used to test different configurations. I copied the general shape and size of the CPAP blower that is optimized to provide pressure/flow with minimum noise. The blowers in the video are intended to maximize flow/pressure where a high noise level is more acceptable (dust collection in a wood shop). If I were going to pursue this further I migby klcjr89 - CoreXY Machines
You take a look at the links I provided? Thanks!by klcjr89 - CoreXY Machines
Quotebbcbggr54 i understand the point of linear rods but if i can get a near perfect double fixed leadscrew assembly i can be faster and little to no z wobble. and is it not better to have the leadscrew holding the bed up instead of pushing so you get even less bending therefore less z wobble This is why i3 gantrys should have the motors at the top, so that the leadscrew is in tension rather thaby klcjr89 - CoreXY Machines
Quotethe_digital_dentist OK, I have finished messing with it (for now). The final design is here. I found some good videos of someone who has detailed his different impeller and housing designs for best efficiency and noise: Another interesting design that is used in Apple's laptops are the asymmetrically positioned blades, which makes it appear quieter by spreading the sound over severalby klcjr89 - CoreXY Machines
QuoteVDX ...sure? - have both types (and some others too) in different linear feeding setups. Here one with tapped bores: The counterbore ones are the standard and are easy to find (MGN), but the tapered bore ones not as so, which is what I meant.by klcjr89 - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
QuoteVDX ... there are different types of rails and fixation methodes - "slim" ones with tapped bores, bigger ones with pocket holes without threads: Those would seem rare to find than what's available.by klcjr89 - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
QuoteOrigamib Quoteklcjr89 Quoteo_lampe Why did you choose 50mm height? Is that your printers max. height? I think, making them as long as possible will reduce the number of contact areas ( read: chances of misalignment ) It was done to keep possible print failures at a lower point instead of printing a 300mm tall extrusion and have it fail and waste plastic. I'f you're worried about adhesion..by klcjr89 - General
Quoteo_lampe Why did you choose 50mm height? Is that your printers max. height? I think, making them as long as possible will reduce the number of contact areas ( read: chances of misalignment ) It was done to keep possible print failures at a lower point instead of printing a 300mm tall extrusion and have it fail and waste plastic.by klcjr89 - General
While I wait for materials to arrive from Misumi, this is what I have rendered: Platen bolted from the bottom to Misumi 40x40 milled face extrusions.by klcjr89 - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
QuoteVDX ... here's a fast sketch to show the difference between common fixature and clamping inside of a split extrusion: Cool! I didn't know anyone made split extrusions. I'd love to buy some, or do you mean I'd have to modify or make my own? Right now I'm just leaning toward doing it the common way, to have holes drilled through the extrusions that match up to holes in the bottom side of tby klcjr89 - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Originally, I had cutouts for a hex nyloc nut in the bottom, and a counterbore for a nut driver in the top to be able to tighten the top hex nut, negating the need for endcaps. The problem is, no matter how good the layer bonding is, the cutouts will migrate and separate away from the end faces of the extrusion; by having the hex nuts (with flat washers) resting on the top and bottom surfaces thiby klcjr89 - General
QuoteVDX ... this would be similar to my "split extrusion clamp" suggestion Do you have a render or drawing of what that would look like? I can't visualize it. Thanks!by klcjr89 - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Quoteo_lampe You'd have to cut the ends very precise, before stacking them. This hasn't been an issue at all. Ready to go straight off a well-tuned delta printer. Good idea on the sand!by klcjr89 - General
The black linear guides I want to use look so good paired with the UV pink extrusionsby klcjr89 - General
I'm so tempted to build a printer with this idea, I just need to pick a smaller build volume size to make it more feasible.by klcjr89 - General
Quotemars on the rocks I got it to cure but it didn't have a top I still got voids though I think this technique might better suit thinner walled objects as far as strength goes but between 3 and 5% infill with 4 shells should be strong enough for a 3d printer and wouldn't use to much more filament Good to know, thanks for trying it. If you see the post I made before your first post, you will sby klcjr89 - General
Quotemars on the rocks I've printed the 30x30 and filled it with foam and as a test I printed it again with 5% infill and its seems just as strong. Did the foam actually cure without voids or did it turn out like the 60x60 extrusion I posted earlier in this thread? Photo is in that post.by klcjr89 - General
Calculations show that it is alot cheaper to buy aluminum compared to the filament on the basis of 30x30 extrusions. However, with the 60x60 extrusions, it is cheaper to print them (probably not in the long run, see below). Initially, I was going to buy 60x60 aluminum ones from Misumi but after seeing the price, I came up with this idea. Time and electricity is another thing; to print a printerby klcjr89 - General
Quoteo_lampe When I use foam for a close gap, I use a mist water sprayer before I inject the foam. I might try this, as the casting resin is very expensive and the volume required to fill the cavity would be astronomical.by klcjr89 - General
On a side note, I'm pleased to be able to find 6 and even 10ft. lengths of #8-32 threaded rod. I could not find M4 threaded rod greater than 1 meter easily. A 6 ft. length of #8-32 threaded rod only costs $2.32.by klcjr89 - General
Quotethe_digital_dentist I bought a bunch of 1W UV LEDs (get the cheap ones- 400 nm- the 360 nm cost a LOT more and don't cause any brighter fluorescence), a couple strip type PCBs, and then mounted them on aluminum angle stock to direct the light and dissipate heat. I power them with a $8 dc-dc converter set for about 19V out which puts about 20W into the 30 LEDs so they'll live a long, happy lby klcjr89 - General