Quotedc42 I don't like groove mount either. For the Smart Effector, E3D makes us a modified heatsink with a screw top: E3D has said that they are going to offer this heatsink variant as a standard option sometime in the future. A quick detach system and less bulky too would come handy. Considering the nozzle/bed contact set the Z0, no issue about repeatability of the mount when changing the hby MKSA - General
Or you remove the circular heat sink, replace it with a flat one laid horizontally "et voila", 40mm from the nozzle to topby MKSA - General
I suggest you leave comments on his youtube channel pointing to the bias toward Prusa if any. And ask him to review the Anet for ex. PS: I am not paid by Prusa, I even consider there are some flaws but I maintain Anet and most of the likes are junks that deserve the sledge hammer or the 12Ga treatment.by MKSA - General
Quoteo_lampe ... edit: I confused cm with inches. A 30" long part would be taylor made for the "blackbelt"-style printers. Their layer orientation is around 45°. Confused ? Like here ?: Note that in Quebec 30" is close a to one "verge" that translates to "dick", so the print requirement is for a short dick.by MKSA - General
Quote3D rob . and again. you can guess it! advertising for ............ Prusaaaaaaaaa Or may be the original Prusa is better as a kit for beginners than the myriad of Chinese imitation like the Anet, Tron, Tevo, CR .... which are plain junks but sell like hot cakes. Furthermore these copiers bring nothing in term of innovation, worse, they disgust people to try to do/publish anything knowingby MKSA - General
You better go with a geared extruder and a Nema14 motor. I use RC gears, brass plus POM, cheap and small. For the Titan they made the same choice. Small and light so direct, no bownden and its issues. The Wade one found on Thingiverse were fine 5 years ago but are too heavy, bulky and use printed gears.by MKSA - CoreXY Machines
Just use a worm gear or:a Nema17 with gearbox (worm or regular gears). Can be found in many places. Dividers are built that way. No need for a Nema23 and printed gears are close to worthless considering what is available and for cheap.by MKSA - General
Have a look at the driver datasheet:by MKSA - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteo_lampe Nice idea, if you have these sort of things or tools at hand. I also thought of 5mm OD shims, but they are even harder to get. The 0.1mm gap isn't "official" yet. I'll get my Delrin magball kits next week, then I have a chance to check their gap for reference. PTFE sheet can be found in laser printers. Old printers in junkyards, just be polite with the guys toting baseball batsby MKSA - Delta Machines
QuoteCougar281 What noise are you referring to? I've read some posts about steppers making annoying high pitched noise when idle but powered, which these don't make, but they do make 'noise' when they're moving, although I'd say it's nothing annoying and is a 'noise' that I'd consider normal for operating motors. Plus the supply voltage shouldn't make a difference to them, as best I can tell, theby MKSA - Prusa i3 and variants
Exactly, what kind of parts do you want to make ? Any example ? How did you decide you wanted to 3D print them ?by MKSA - General
With a cutting punch or the proper diam, cut pieces of 0.1mm PTFE sheet you put in the hole. Will not melt, will give the right spacing. I make bearings that way, magnets plus Igus or PTFE. A T° adjustable heatgun used for reflow comes handy too.by MKSA - Delta Machines
PLA is not suitable to make good bearings and furthermore to get good bearings (made from Igus filament for ex.) they must be adjusted for minimal play (reamer or heat gun). Minimal play means that everything must be properly constrained, well aligned. If not, polymer bearings will be hard to move, may seize. Too much play, they may rattle. Lubricant will help hiding these. To get a smooth movemeby MKSA - Prusa i3 and variants
What kind of head is that ? The fan seems to blow on the flat side of the heatsink isn't ? I hope there is an opening for the airflow to go through it. As for the part cooling fan, why not make it yourself and make its orientation adjustable. ? You have to avoid cooling the heatblock and nozzle A plus is to use Al tubes to direct the air flow. Do a search here for proper design and discussion aby MKSA - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteDLF The criss cross would have been nice! Too bad I didn’t think of that! I’ll see how the noise-level turns out. If it’s to bothersome I’ll probably do a combination: sound dampening and trying to quiet the machine itself. Soon I’ll be moving to a house outside of the city so hopefully the neighbours wont be affected. My wife may however still have things to say in the matter How does tby MKSA - CoreXY Machines
Quoteobelisk79 I get the sinking feeling that MKSA wants to see something beyond just chatter on a forum lol.... Indeed, indeed ! Imagine on Aliexpress, a description like this: "Ferittic nozzle with even heat transference made in a metal that doesn't dissipate heat excited by a Litz coil " A winner, I tell you !by MKSA - General
QuoteAletheianAlex QuoteTheBoy Why do we use aluminum to transfer heat to our extruder head? If we wanted a more even heat transference shouldn't it be a metal that doesn't dissipate heat? Why not just put the heating rod in the extruder itself if it's already on a cnc the extra pocket shouldn't matter. It saves a step reduces production time and can still be sold for the same price. Sounds likeby MKSA - General
Most of the time what fails is the heat bed connector, not the wires or the FET. ANyway, for new designs 24V is better. To have the bed mains powered is great but requires a lot more care due to security concern.by MKSA - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteDLF Glad you like it! With todays cheap chinese printers scrapraps are few and far between. But still a lot of fun and a good learning experience I’m with MKSA on this one. Allso, the plan is to never remove the alu. I can disassemble to printer without doing so if needed. How big of an issue the noise is remains to be seen. I tested the printer before adding sheet alu. It will be interestby MKSA - CoreXY Machines
QuoteTrakyan "bogged down in small features" . the devil is in the details ! As I always say, nothing like a prototype. One learns more from mistakes than from success. That way I learned a lot, ... mainly from other's mistakes. Saves time and frustration. I saw the "Gus Simpson" video, yes it moves around a "head" but I don't call that "working". A nice exercise true but as a practicalby MKSA - General
If you can see it is bent, then it is too much bent. If you managed to bend it; it is crappy recycled steel from Lychee cans or your name is Benderby MKSA - Mechanics
Quotedc42 QuoteMKSA DC42, why not use a current source, take advantage of the 3 wires, in fact implement the same circuitry and measurement method normally used. PT100 which are common and cheap, could become the standard as there is a real need for higher extrusion temp. Could be a selling point for the Duet ? Interesting idea. However, when using a PT1000 a fixed current source would have toby MKSA - General
Quoteo_lampe The scraprap made me smile. So heartwarming oldskool Why did you use rivets for the sheets? I'd have used acrylic or silicone glue. That would have probably been less noisy and easier to remove. Aluminum sheets plus epoxy plus rivets to make a box, hard to beat in term of lightness, rigidity and ease of mfg ! As for the noise, it has to be taken care at the source Acrylic ? Silby MKSA - CoreXY Machines
DC42, why not use a current source, take advantage of the 3 wires, in fact implement the same circuitry and measurement method normally used. PT100 which are common and cheap, could become the standard as there is a real need for higher extrusion temp. Could be a selling point for the Duet ?by MKSA - General
QuoteTrakyan That's like saying just because you nicked your finger you might as well cut it off. The printed gears have been proven to work, the question is how much slop can you introduce before it becomes too much. Yes, you are right, printed gears work, wooden gears too BTW. Now how about making just a prototype and see how they "work". (Not in wood, you could really cut your fingers)by MKSA - General
QuoteIntensify I think i read somewhere that some one had put a delay of 10 seconds of warmup time before checking the temperature wouldn't that overcome this problem of the low temperature reading?. I lost the link i have 3 windows open with 10+ tabs researching I think you should first learn about PID in addition to ADC, thermistor linearity (mainly lack of it)... ! I read about a 3D priby MKSA - General
QuoteSteveRoy The z stop should stop the head before a head crash. ...... As you wrote: SHOULDby MKSA - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteSteveRoy The bed doesn't need a spring for adjustment at the home position, this is done with the long nylon nut off the X motor mount. ... The spring is there to allow the bed to eventually move down during the Z homing to trigger a frame mounted Z switch and avoid head crash, Z motor stalling etc.... For ex: in case of a thick plastic blob on the nozzle .... It is not necessary if one uby MKSA - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteQdeathstar hah! Making chips is fun. Too bad the tools don't make the printer. Why make a 3D printer then ? just put an extruder/hotend (or even a plasma torch) in the chuck and a heated bed on the mill table "et voila" ! Now you have a combined substractive/additive mfg machine.by MKSA - CoreXY Machines