I hope the bed is connected after the sw/fuse ! You MUST put a thermal fuse in contact with the heating element unless there is already one embedded in it (as it should be !).by MKSA - Mechanics
On the other hand, to replace the weak springs of the crappy cloth pins available today by these belt springs will give a firmer grip allowing your clothes to dry fast in the most furious wind ! To try to have the belt jump the motor pulley is not the right way. It is amusing to perform though Yes, the belt must be tight, it is all described in the Gates and other mfg documents. The right tensiby MKSA - General
If its an acrylic frame, don't waste your time on these modifications that are just cosmetic anyway or any other more complex (most of what is on Thingiverse is useless anyway). Go for an other kind of machine, Ultimaker clone, CoreXY, Delta ...by MKSA - Prusa i3 and variants
Rob, You learned from Thomas. Now what did you give him in return ?by MKSA - General
To surround the nozzle with the heating element like drawn above (although this "design" wouldn't work as it misses the key point, the cold/hot transition zone) is not new at all. In fact it is the first one because it is obvious way to do it ! 3D pen hot end are still built that way. The novel idea has been to use a separate heating element in the current tube form you could easily install inby MKSA - General
When you do it for fun, you can afford to do it for free. The fun is your payment. When it takes time, effort and you have to pay bills, it is a different story. If you want honest reviews done by experts, you have to pay for it. Nothing comes for free. So you review all these reviews and you use common sense. You are welcome to share your conclusion (for free, take your time ). When I reby MKSA - General
What you want to produce looks magnificent, innovative, promising and would sell like hot cakes but again, make a PROPER drawing and even better a prototype. "The proof of the pudding is in the eating" but so far I don't see a proper kitchen, cookware, ingredients not even a recipe to make this delicious pudding !by MKSA - General
QuoteTheBoy yea so still the same thing just different name. replace up to the thermal barrier.from the left side with one unit How about making one according to your ideas ? For a start, a drawing to avoid any confusion and eventually burning yourself or putting your house on fire ?by MKSA - General
To add to the argument; Tie wraps are far better than Al blocks as police shackle tooby MKSA - General
QuoteStu Ok. I'm open to fixing it up. Any specific details you can share on how they accomplished that? Thanks -Stu From your questions and the fact you already somewhat failed, I would advise you look for some decent working out of the box 3D printer to achieve your goal, that is make these boxes for your vintage machines.by MKSA - General
Quoteleadinglights QuoteMKSA Four points is popular because people simply don't think past the fact that as it has 4 corners, therefore it needs 4 post/screws ........ I find it difficult to think that Joseph Prusa would have used the four point or the squashed frog without reason. Mike He also uses two motors for the Z axis, hold the bearings with tie wraps, the frame is rather flimsy .... Fby MKSA - General
Quoteleadinglights I think that what may be going on is that the four legs of the "squashed frog" are flexible and the metal you have added is also flexible. The normal requirement of the spring leveling is that the mount of the adjusting screws is firm and that the bed only moves when the load exceeds the upward push on the spring while your added metal part just added unwanted flexibility. My gby MKSA - General
What kind of "flat and leveled" table ?by MKSA - General
How much did you spend and what are the characteristics ? How much better and faster than using belts /pulleys ?by MKSA - Mechanics
What ? A "magazine" printed on REAL paper made of REAL tree chunks, water, chlorine ... ? It is so "passé" Should be 3D printed on thin sheet of PLA !by MKSA - General
How about getting rid of this lame unreliable Lulzbot Z homing system and go for a good one ? OK for the Z nozzle contacting the bed, but using a displacement sensor. To rely on the nozzle making an electric contact with some washers on the bed is unreliable ! I looked at it in the past and discarded it.by MKSA - General
Quotethe_digital_dentist I've seen other reporting tearing the PEI on a Prusa machine, and now your mention of bubbling under the PEI. Both seem odd to me - I use 30 mil (0.7 mm) thick PEI on my printer and it never bubbles or tears. I put a piece of 60 mil PEI on a printer at the makerspace and it's been on the machine for 2 years and abused daily by many people and no one has managed to damagby MKSA - General
Personally I unwind the filament, measure its length, average its diam, compute its volume, cut some sample to determine its density using the method devised by Archimedes, compute the total weight of filament left and weight the empty spool (the tare) then rewind the filament, weight the total subtract the tare and mark it on the spool with all the others values. I don't account for the humidityby MKSA - General
Indeed HIPS is a good choice, easy to dissolve or even burn. Parts have to be made as empty and thin wall as possible.by MKSA - General
How about asking the vendor, eventually read the doc ?by MKSA - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteDjDemonD Mega-Ohms. I am truly sorry, I should have written it MOhm's right? Anything else? I was just kidding ! Indeed m for milli, M for Mega. therefore you should have written 400 kΩby MKSA - General
ohm is for resistance, mho for conductance but mohm ?????by MKSA - General
Quoteamigob if you have a Prusa type printer. Then there are nice tensioners available. I use the first one until now it works very good Sorry, not nice, too complex and not easy to adjust. Should be either at the idler pulley, motor, eventually integrated in the carriage where the belt is fixed, must be simple, keep the belt straight, be accessible and if possible adjustable with only one scrby MKSA - General
These springs are most of the time improperly mounted with their "arm" resting in the space between teeth. To install, you need to pull hard or put them on a belt that is already somewhat under tension. In that later case, you need some good nozzle pliers if not steel fingers ! Anyway, you must be close to the mfg spec (about 12 N for GT2 6mm w). In that case, they somewhat work, looks like itby MKSA - General
No need to add anything. Besides, it may be too late. The OP last post is from 30 Oct ! May be he installed some crappy chinese differential breaker ?by MKSA - General
Quote3dPriMo hello please i want to ask u what did u do finally to get your motor warm not so hot because i have the same problem They waited for a bit more than 3 years.by MKSA - General
Quotecozmicray Do yourself a favor ditch the rods use linear rails see the digital dentist build I have to disagree, it should be "ditch everything" in place of "ditch the rods, use linear rails"by MKSA - CoreXY Machines
Don't bother with this kind of sensor. Use piezo, strain gauge, switch etc .... reacting to the nozzle touching the bed.by MKSA - General
Easy to fix, just get rid of one of the motor, a belt and pulleys to drive the two lead screws like what I did here: It is one of the common design error seen in the Prusa and many other 3D printers.by MKSA - General