Things are going remarkably well with my new printer so now I moving past the simple "brick" shapes. Specifically, envision a simple hockey puck shaped slice of a cylinder, sitting on one of its flat faces. Now envision a hole drilled through the "side"....like a horizontal tunnel (parallel to the bed, say in the X direction), straight through. Kisslicer slices it but shows a funny set ofby mars bonfire - General
Most exhaust putties that I am aware of are based on sodium silicate. Also, many of the wood stove gasket cements and other high temp "adhesives". It is *not* silicone. It takes high temps but is very brittle. In my experience, it does have limited shelf life and once dryed, it really doesn't seem to come back if you try to reconstitute it with water. It does need to be "baked" for full, lby mars bonfire - Reprappers
Needed to share the success for my first 3D print! I have chipping away at designing and building the printer for well over a year. It is quite the kick to see it printing! "Classic" XYZE design with full custom mechanisms and electronics based on bit and pieces of various designs. The hotend is full custom and may be somewhat novel and is all metal where it counts but also uses some polyby mars bonfire - General
Sublime, Thanks for the reply. Maybe a little more talking (before testing...this weekend)... The fog of confusion is lifting a little thanks to your explanation of 5D. I think in my research I read that the five "D"s of 5D with X, Y, Z, E and feed rate (??). Didn't make much senses at the time but I can (almost) see why feed rate makes the list; because of the concept of "equal volume" thatby mars bonfire - General
Sorry...I incorrectly reported the choices as BTB, and Gen5. What I should have said was BTB and *5D* (not Gen5). I think I now understand what is going on. If I understand the story correctly, 5D was an old, now out of date firmware, that did (may have?) been some of the roots of the modern firmware choices including Marlin (is this correct?). More importantly, it sounds like that Marlin defby mars bonfire - General
Trying to use Kisslicer, free version. Running Marlin firmware. Custom electronics/mechanism, but pretty vanilla. Question: Kisslicer has three choices for "gcode": "btb", Gen5 Absolute, Gen5 relative. How to choose for my Marlin firmware driven machine. TIA.by mars bonfire - General
Watched a show on printing of reading materials for the blind and was struck with the possible utility of a 3D printer for the task of making raised dots and tactile graphics. I web searched it and found a few hits but don't recall this topic being discussed on this forum. Possibly using it for originals as well as masters for press based printing. Might even be able to exploit the resolutioby mars bonfire - General
I did a little web surfing and there are some reports (guesses?) that "Dauerdruckplatte" is basically, Garolite...a epoxy/fiberglass material. If so (big leap here) has anyone tried Garolite...which sounds pretty much like unclad PC board material...and if it is way better than PC board stock, why? Or is "Dauerdruckplatte" more like the cheaper phenolic/cloth or phenolic/paper PC board stock asby mars bonfire - General
Can someone give more info on "Dauerdruckplatte"? Is it a plastic? If so, from what "family" (polyolefin, polyester, PTFE....). Is there a generic equivalent? Melting temp, etc...? Available in the US? Thanks.by mars bonfire - General
Maybe angst is too strong a word but I thought it might provoke a good discussion. Seems like there is a general consensus (?) that it is good to have an abrupt temperature transition from the melt zone and the "barrel" of the hot end. If I can start with this premise, one of the technologies to achieve this is active directed air flow over the "barrel"/feed tube, including a finned heat sink.by mars bonfire - General
I watched the Yoda video and your hotend video. Totally impressive! As someone building my own custom cartesian reprap machine, I know what it is like trying to build the prototype *and* the finished product all in one build...and getting the finished product to look that polished. Actually, I am 95% complete and was running out of gas when I saw the videos...gave me the boost I needed to actby mars bonfire - General
I agree that crimps are the way to go. If, however, you want to try solder, this is a source of relatively inexpensive solder: Koford M618 High temperature solder. Melting point 598F. Ideal for soldering on pinions for G7 motors to prevent spinning. $4.98 ea. Google it....several on line hobby store sources. It does not wet as easily as 60/40 rosin core so it takes a little gettting used to aby mars bonfire - General
From a post on the web (If it is on the web, it has to be true...). All kidding aside and references to old, young, husbands or wives tales be darn.... "Sorry, but that is absolutely NOT true. Stepper motors are very different from brushless DC motors, and WILL be significantly damaged simply by being disassembled, no matter how carefully it's done. Do some Googling, and you will see this is 10by mars bonfire - General
Opening a stepper motor will result in a significant loss of torque due to a degradation in the magnetic strength. The motor will still work but will be weaker when reassembled.by mars bonfire - General
Upon further consideration, I think I will punt Sprinter and try out Marlin and see how that goes.by mars bonfire - General
I would appreciate if someone could help be navigate the setting up of the thermal behavior of a Sprinter based system. I know how to configure for the thermistor lookups (100Kohm Honeywells) for the extruder and the bed. What I can't figure out is the configuration of the PID settings. I am finding the comments in the Sprinter source code confusing (with warnings indicating that if you scrby mars bonfire - General
OD/ID=0.095/0.071 inches...and yes, anticipating a question based on your previous post...it may be too tight. I plan to try it and it needed, up the bore size. I did a rough calculation of the thermal expansion of ABS and measured the roll of filament I own, there is some margin...but, over the full range of variability of diameter of ABS filament...it could well be a problem. I may go up toby mars bonfire - General
Attached .jpg showes progress to date on the stainless hypodermic tubing hot end. The structural supports are 1/4 inch diameter ceramic (steatite L5 grad) threaded standoffs. The tubing is brazed with jewelry "easy" silver solder (56% silver). The tip is brass and is held in the aluminum heater block with a compression "clamp" arrangement (not threaded into the block). The heat sink isby mars bonfire - General
davew tx, Great info. You addressed one of the issues that I have been wondering about...the best diameter for the stainless steel tube. Question: are your comments based on PLA exclusively? Would you expect an easier time if I just shoot ABS? As far as the press fit idea, very nice. Also, I like the idea on how to flare the input end. I am using brazing...."easy" silver solder (jewelryby mars bonfire - General
Thanks for the all the thoughtful responses to my request. I think I will start with no "nipple" for the first cut and see how it goes. The reason I asked is that I am designing a hot end that is based on using hard temper stainless precision tubing (basing large bore hypodermic needle tubing) as the barrel (1.75 mm filament...tubing has a 0.01" thick wall) and providing the structural supporby mars bonfire - General
On my system (roll my own electronics with an Arduino Mega 2560 core), I worried about the drive capability of the Arduino being up to the task of switching the power FET to the point where I decided to spend a few bucks and design in a low end driver chip (microChip part...can't remember the part number off hand...1.5 amps gate drive) to make sure I switched the FET in a snappy fashion to minimiby mars bonfire - General
A couple of comments. If you off board a FET using the existing on board FET as a driver, take care about inversion of the signal. This can be handled in the off board driver circuit or by hacking the firmware. Or, as pointed out, drive the off-board using one of the unused pins on the Arduino (good idea, IMHO). At least in this neck of the woods (and based on a brief search of the web), baby mars bonfire - General
Sorry...I can see how I confused you. I didn't read your original question carefully. I *think* I now understand what you are asking. I just checked out the RAMPS 1.4 schematic with the hope I can offer a better discussion. Your plan hinges on the nature of the heater bed control methodology. I looks like the RAMPS board (the hardware) can support what I called a bang-bang control...heat fby mars bonfire - General
I realized after I posted my response that I was limiting my thinking in terms of something like a PID controlled bed (where you want a close approximation of linear power control) as opposed something like a bang-bang controller. If the switch rate is not extreme, I would think a bang-bang controller (like a room thermostat) with a reasonable on-off hysteresis temp range could be implemented usby mars bonfire - General
It should be fine to run the power to a heated bed through a relay designed to interrupt the operating voltage (12 Volts in your case?) and the current. The heated bed "signal" is typically pulse width modulated i.e. the signal has two states....ground (zero volts) and 12 volts...the pulsing taking place at some frequency high enough so that the thermal mass of the bed averages out the achievedby mars bonfire - General
I have been studying the various hotend designs and wondered if there was a consensus on the detail of the very bitter end of the hot end tip. As best I can tell, some designs end in what I will call a truncated cone of about 118 degrees included angle (the cone) and the truncation ("flat spot") on the tip maybe about 1mm in diameter. Others seem to be better described as a truncated cone but wby mars bonfire - General
Dear jollygrimreaper, I am woefully ignorant of your design but would like to find out more. Have you or Is it possible to make the design details available? As I mentioned in my post, I am particularly interested in hearing if you had any problems with the filament sticking which as I understand it (again, correct me experts) is the reason that people use PTFE liners and if you needed to makeby mars bonfire - General
I agree. All the heat won't go into the melt chamber. My intent with using the assumption of "all the heat" was that it would worst case the temperature difference. Even with that overly conservative assumption, the temp difference was about 4 degrees. As you correctly point out, since realistically, less than the full heat flows into the chamber the temperature difference is even smaller, fuby mars bonfire - General
I thought I would take a cut at calculating the impact of using stainless versus aluminum for the walls of the melt chamber portion of the barrel of the new Prusa design. The following are my assumptions (please review and comment): * The thermal conductivity of aluminum is roughly 250. Watts/(meter-degreeK) * The thermal conductivity of stainless is roughly 19. Watts/(meter-degreeK) * Withoby mars bonfire - General
I would very much like to know more about the other all metal designs that have been alluded to. Are the details of these designs documented somewhere so that I can study them? I am particularly interested in how they perform in terms of upstream filament sticking to the barrel. Seems to me, that is the reason so many designs employ a PTFE liner. Note: I am not knocking this approach but Iby mars bonfire - General