I get my strongest prints by printing at low layer heights (0.1-0.15mm), very slowly (30 mm/s perimeters, 50 mm/s infill), and with a high infill (>50%). This gives the best bonding between layers because it leaves a lot of time for the hot end to heat the previous layer of plastic, while being very close to the previous layer. These settings may be annoying because of the extra time they adby Quentin.T - Reprappers
If I understand your issue correctly, you can easily widen the entire machine by moving the two triangle portions of the frame further apart. You could also cut your smooth rods shorter, but I would stay away from that because it will cut down on your x movement.by Quentin.T - Reprappers
Also, you're belts could be too loose, preventing you from getting sharp corners. I would tighten the belts and slow down the printby Quentin.T - Slic3r
When you have small intricate parts like this gear, you will want to use a single perimeter, or else you end up with gaps that are too small for the next perimeter to enter, but also big enough that they would be filled by a solid infill. Also, slic3r has a feature for filling fine gaps that would be very useful in this model. Slic3r is the only software that has worked for me, and it works greby Quentin.T - Reprappers
I'm running a Ramps 1.4 with Marlin, and a J-head MKV hot end, and my hot end has been working smoothly for a few months now. A couple of days ago I was about halfway through my print, and my hot end started to lose temperature. I tested for a short in the hot end, and proper thermistor readings, and both checked out, making me think my MOSFET burnt out. I ordered a new one, and in the meantimby Quentin.T - Reprappers
I'm just posting to follow the topic. I run slic3r and have the same problem, but i have no experience using other softwares, and would love it was implemented into slic3r. Is there a way that i could tell slic3r to turn on my fan for a certain amount of time after each layer change using the custom g-code tab?by Quentin.T - Reprappers
You can make the spacing any size that you want as long as they are all the same throughout your printer. Making the sizes bigger will make it possible to increase your build volume, but if you still use a standard Mendel bed size then there is not really a point to make it larger. One thing to keep in mind is longer rods make more opportunity for flex, and you will need to make sure that yourby Quentin.T - Reprappers
For anyone out there with the same issues as me, I finally figured out my problem. I had been using 1 meter cables to connect my LCD to the RAMPS board, which made it easy for my steppers and other electronics to interfere with the SD card reader. I traded the long cables for some 30 cm cables and now everything works perfectlyby Quentin.T - Reprappers
Are you sure you're using pure acetone, and that the filament you have is ABS?by Quentin.T - Reprappers
this is the code I have from the arduino mega section of pins.h /**************************************************************************************** * Arduino Mega pin assignment * ****************************************************************************************/ #if MOTHERBOARD == 3 || MOTHERBOARD == 33 || MOTHERBOARD == 34 #define KNOWN_BOARD 1 //////////////////FIX THIS/////////by Quentin.T - Reprappers
What should I be looking for exactly? I really don't know what is going on in pins.hby Quentin.T - Reprappers
An sd card was provided with the board from the seller that supports api interface. I have a 4 gb sandisk sd cardby Quentin.T - Reprappers
Your acetone solution may already be fully saturated with ABS. Only so much ABS can be dissolved per amount of Acetone. The solution turned orange, which shows that at least some ABS dissolved. If you add more acetone the rest of the ABS may dissolve, but if you have no solid ABS left your solution is not as concentrated.by Quentin.T - Reprappers
Hello everyone, I just purchased the reprapdiscount smart controller and am having some trouble getting the SD card to work. I can control the printer completely from the LCD screen and encoder, and when I insert an SD card it will say "Card inserted," but the menu says card empty if I try to find any files I have saved. I formatted the card to MS-DOS(FAT) using disk utility on a Mac. Is thereby Quentin.T - Reprappers
I'm using belts with steel cables in them from ultimaker. I just went out and bought some dupont teflon silicone lubricant, and now my y axis moves too far by the same amount that it used to be short, so my problem must have been lubrication. and about the jerk, I've heard of the jerk in calculus, which is the derivative of the acceleration. If thats what it is then the jerk would be the rateby Quentin.T - Reprappers
oh yes, I've also lowered the max accelerations of my printer because my print bed is quite heavy. here are the settings also, I have no idea what the point of the xy jerk is, or how I should change it, any recommendations would be great // X, Y, Z, E maximum start speed for accelerated moves. E default values are good for skeinforge 40+, for older versions raise them a lot. #define _ACCELERATIby Quentin.T - Reprappers
I calibrated my extruder feedrate quite accurately while setting up my firmware, but as I have been printing some boxes, I realized that my y axis was not set up accurately, which was quite odd to me, considering it could be easily calculated (I calculated 80 steps per mm as most people do). I recalibrated it anyway using measured values, and now it is much more accurate(now I have around 85 steby Quentin.T - Reprappers
Hello everyone, I'm just starting to get some really nice results on my Prusa, but only with certain objects. The objects that aren't coming out nicely are things like the Yoda bust, that widen as they get taller. What happens is as my printer lays down the outermost layer of plastic, the outer lip curls up, and is higher than the rest of the object. This means that on the next pass the hot enby Quentin.T - Reprappers
YES that was it! Thank you. I feel stupid now because I changed the max from 275 to 250 way back when and forgot about itby Quentin.T - Reprappers
yep i meant 240, sorry about thatby Quentin.T - Reprappers
Hello everyone, I just recently finished my prusa mendel, and have been consistently working on tuning my print quality. I switched from orange to natural abs, and realized that I need to raise the temperature for the natural abs. This is where I get a problem. If I set my temp to 140C or higher, then my hot end will make it to that temp, overshoot it by about ten degrees, and then cut out cby Quentin.T - Reprappers
Hello Roy, My dad wants to keep the max32 to use for other projects, but thank you for the great offer. I finally broke down today and bought an Arduino at RadioShack. I have compiled everything and it seems to work properly. I am learning how to connect everything at the moment, and things seem to be running smoothly so far. Thanks for the help! Quentinby Quentin.T - Repetier
Is there a way I can modify the code to make it run on my board? Because I had this board laying around and I'm not really looking forward to shelling out $60 for a new arduino board if I can help it. But if there are no alternatives then I guess I'll have to suck it upby Quentin.T - Repetier
Thank you for showing me repetier! It looks very promising. I have downloaded it and tried compiling it, but it still gives a few errors, though far less than sprinter did. If someone could please point me to a place where I can get some help with this that would be great, thanks. these are the errors in case anyone knows whats going on In file included from /Configuration.h:32:0,by Quentin.T - Reprappers
Hello everyone, I am working on a my first RepRap, and have finished the hardware side of things. Right now I am very stuck with the software, specifically the sprinter firmware. When I purchased my electronics, I decided not to buy an arduino board, because I had what I thought to be a perfect alternative at home (chipKIT Max32 by Diligent). Now that I am trying to load sprinter onto it, Iby Quentin.T - Developers
I have done that already. The error I posted was after I had already commented it out. I think that it still compiles the code for the SD card, and commenting it out just tells it not to use it. Thats the only conclusion I could come to with what I know. or else it is something different entirelyby Quentin.T - Reprappers
I was able to find kliment's sprinter firmware. I compiled it for my board in an environment very similar to the arduino compiler. After compiling, it gave me a whole bunch of errors, but all of them were related to the sd card option that I don't plan on using. Is it possible for me to tell the firmware not to compile that portion of the code since I am not using it? or is there a portion ofby Quentin.T - Reprappers
I am also very confused with the software side of things. I have my entire reprap assembled, and right now I'm stumped over electronics. I have downloaded pronterface and skeinforge to my computer and successfully created g-codes with them. My main issue is understanding how to load the firmware onto my reprap. I also have no idea which firmware I need or what it does exactly. I am looking fby Quentin.T - Reprappers
Hello everyone, I have printed the pulley from the stl-sae section of the prusa mendel github page (https://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/blob/master/stl-sae/pulley.stl) and I dont know if it is the metric pulley or the sae pulley. I read somewhere that there is not an sae pulley drawn, so I didn't know if this one was a metric one inserted to finish the print plate. I just wanted to clarify bby Quentin.T - Reprappers
I was just wondering if i printed the metric ones or the SAE ones because it said somewhere that there would be play in it if i used a metric pulley with a standard beltby Quentin.T - Reprappers