I've tried to remove the final nozzle piece though, and it was moving right without jamming... so I did exclude that for my case. Though I'm getting a new extruder piece, so I can either try the new one, or mix parts of the two to discover what's actually happening...by raffaele.ragni - Reprappers
I've been having a similar problem too. Had a chance to solve it again in the end?by raffaele.ragni - Reprappers
Well I took that bolt from ebay that someone made it... dunno if I even have the equipment to make that. Will see this week end going around shops. I've understood the problem though, thanks.by raffaele.ragni - Reprappers
Sorry for the typo, meant the extruder is from maker gear'sby raffaele.ragni - Reprappers
I'm not sure if it's why i keep the springs too tight (but though, if i don't the filament keeps not really going down) or something else, but the bolt seems to 'eat' the plastic, which remains trapped in the small holes in it. The white piece there in the center is the plastic (the color is transparent). Or maybe i have to tighten the spring even more? Even though I ran out of space with thoseby raffaele.ragni - Reprappers
OK, another question though. Was reading the wiki page about it, and it doesn't say what type of resistor it needs?by raffaele.ragni - Reprappers
macphyter Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I believe the heated PCBs have natural heat > regulation built in. You just turn on the 12 > volts and leave it on. As the traces heat up, the > resistance increases, which causes the current to > go down. It reaches a natural equilibrium, and > stays at a somewhat constant temperature. > >by raffaele.ragni - Reprappers
Well don't have skills or tools to make electronics myself. Could spend time on it but... can just do some soldering at best. Are these additional pieces sold somewhere? About connecting the heated bed directly to generator: how you measure temperature that way and know when to stop heating?by raffaele.ragni - Reprappers
Build type: Mendel Electronics: gen6 I've been going into trying with a glass surface, mostly cause it doesn't bend and I don't have to level it all the time. Ah! the wonders of automation. I understand it needs to be properly heated (I've read somewhere in these posts that someone used a hairdryer... tried it but still quite 'manual'). So I went into ordering a PCB heatbed, but the problem nowby raffaele.ragni - Reprappers
Reversed the gear... And returned to printing tests. Did anyone actually try to print on paper? It seems quite good to me when it comes to sticking (on this type of paper at least). And also removing isn't very difficult, as long as you use foundation layers. This is a test of foundation layers I made: Now it seems though that the flat panel isn't really flat... But it's slightly sinked in thby raffaele.ragni - Reprappers
Mhhh. I guess trying the springs would be the next move then. About the bolt too tight, that was an error at first mouting and then just remained... another thing I'll do is printing a new extruder set of plastics, of course, along other pieces that are breaking around (still too tight screwing)... Now though that I've adjusted with the adapting kit it seems to have improved a little. And also fby raffaele.ragni - Reprappers
Mhh... set the target temperature to 200C... Trimmed the screw-resistance up even *more*... it seems to have enough force now... but also getting warm/hot, the motor...by raffaele.ragni - Reprappers
Strange though cause iv'e tried in both configurations with the potentiometer (is it called like that?) that sets voltage on the motor from the board (using a gen6). And the result was the same. I believe there could something actually obstructing or either not moving inside... but can't detect from assembled, and can't guess from disassembled. I don't think either the bolt is slipping cause I'mby raffaele.ragni - Reprappers
And here I am again. I've gone in trying with a 3mm filament and changing extruder. Took a maker bot one with the wade adaptor this time, and mounting gone more smoothly than last time. Now, I'm not sure what the issue may be, maybe the extruder hole is too tight? This filament is bigger so i guess it takes even slightly more to liquefy, but also pushed down harder... at least i guess the hobbedby raffaele.ragni - Reprappers
OK, I'll see and try with a 3mm config then, as long as i can get my hands on one. I guess I made something wrong from the beginning. (I got the plastic parts in the start, and completed the kit by 'hand' not really knowing much about it - didn't even knew the extruder I had wasn't the default - of course if I did start with a complete kit all this mess wouldn't came up)by raffaele.ragni - Reprappers
brnrd Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Is that a Wade's geared extruder? Did you resize > the hole for use with the 1.75 mm filament? Yes it's a Wade's. No I didn't do any resizing, didn't knew about that. Besides the filament seemed to go smoothly in the beginning, so I never wondered about that solution. How can that be done in a proper way? Closing the hby raffaele.ragni - Reprappers
I've been checking the nozzle (basically 'unscrewed' itself under the high pressure of the filament), and discovered there was quite some sneaky material lurking inside... Is it possible to clean the nozzle, or at this point is beyond recovery? Some material also tended to stuck in the heater block nut when extruding (don't know why, but when pushing material down it kept going 'up' followingby raffaele.ragni - Reprappers