Hi all, I have had some time to clear my head and the problem I have is NOT electronics or software. It's my own stupidity. (Nophead... I think you're right...need a new... and a bigger house) In regards to my two old machines I have had a good look at them (3hrs....I was not going to, but had no choice....) and they are not as bad as I thought after first run. They have a timber frame and needeby IceMan - General
Quotenophead QuoteAnd why at around 117-118mm? When it is independent of position, mechanical drive system, firmware, host and slicer the only explanation I can think of is a small discontinuity in the space time continuum in your house Quite possible....I do seem to loose track of time when I "play" with these printers.....but my i3 is not the Einstein variant... I will concentrate on myby IceMan - General
Quotenophead So you are saying you have the same problem with three types of mechanical drive, three different firmwares, two hosts and three slicers? And always 0.3mm per layer? Wow that is so weird it is spooky. Hi nophead, Yes it is driving me crazy at the moment. My layer height is 0.2mm as I use 0.3 nozzle right now, but the problem is very weird indeed. Will try different heights and repby IceMan - General
Hi, I use both wades and direct and have no real issues with any. What's worth noting with the direct drive is that the torque (as mentioned above) can be a problem. You need a very good hotend that has no problems extracting plastic with low force. I use direct drives on a couple of Prusa i3's with a bowden setup and it works fine. With the wades you will "never" run out of torque. You will strby IceMan - Reprappers
Hi all, Every now and then this issue pops up and I have not found a "definite answer" to the problem. Could be me so correct me if I am wrong and please point me to the answer. Here is the story: Slanting as in posts above but no mechanical problems.. Happens on several printers. One with nema23 and threaded rods as drive train. One with belts and 2 Prusa i3's with braid line. BUT it only happenby IceMan - General
Hi Ryan, Sorry I did not make myself clear but I use ABS directly on glass. Best to apply on a cold heat bed but I have also applied it on hot bed...but not recommended. Regards Janby IceMan - Printing
willer2k Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Hello! > > I am attempting to make my 3d printed parts > cosmetically appealing, hide the layers and path > of the nozzle. > > Any one has any clue how to achieve it relatively > simply? > > > I have attempted some local paint supplier with > their thickest paint, but no success. I trby IceMan - General
Hi I have not used kapton on alu but obviously you need to make sure the alu plate is smooth and not scratched and very clean before applying the tape so the tape adheres well. I am sure you have done that already. I use glass and you will sometimes have the same problem there. If you squash the first layer "too much" on a part with large contact area onto the tape you may stretch the kapton asby IceMan - Printing
Hi, Prusa i3 Size 50% Infill 100% Bowden setup with direct drive extruder ABS Kisslicer,Pronterface and Marlin BRAID line instead of beltsby IceMan - Competitions
regpye Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I have found that using the wet method plus > heating the plate up pretty warm (hot) will allow > the tape to settle down nicely and when cooled the > tape has pulled very tight and no bubbles. > I stopped using kapton tape after I found that > glue sticks work better for me, easy to apply, > easy to remoby IceMan - General
Hi, I use braid line on my printers now. I have used T2's before but have not had any issues with the braid line on my Prusa i3's. I also use bowden extruders. A bit more tricky to tune then a normal extruder setup but much lighter. Will be testing normal extruder setup soon to see how the braid line keeps up with the weight. And as mentioned above you can print your own pulleys as well. In regaby IceMan - General
woo Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > do another printer....rather i2 then i3.... Hi, Did you build one yourself? If not what makes you say this? Just curious as I have built several i3's and have no issues what so ever with it/them. I only build the single frame version. I do make my own hot ends (always have) and absulutely love this printer. It is cheap andby IceMan - Reprappers
Netfabb will do it as well Regards Janby IceMan - General
Hi, I have built several of the i3 and the single frame without any bracing works very well. The M10 rods on the Y-frame is a must compared to M8. I use bowden setup and can only say I am very impressed with the print quality from this machine. I have also changed from belts to braid and it workds superbly. I sell frames in Adelaide and one of my mods to the frame is to be able to attach a bracby IceMan - General
Ohmarinus Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Hi Jan, I got myself the straightest M5 rod > imaginable, it was stainless steel btw. And I > added the tubes you recommended. I found > translucent green tubing in an Animal shop, where > they sell it for fish-tanks for the water pumps. > At the hardware store it didn't go below 6mm ID. > > It looby IceMan - General
Hi, If you attach your stl to this post maybe someone can look at it and give advice. It may need to be altered to be able to print properly on a filament printer. (I assume it is not just a cube with your given dimensions) Regards Janby IceMan - Australia, Sydney RUG
Ohmarinus Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I've seen some solutions where people used a > couple of tie-rips to secure the tubes even more > to both the stepper shaft and the threaded rod. Yes, the use of zip-ties to secure it to the shaft and m5 rod is a good idea. I used that as well but have not had any issues after removing them. Have not used the aluby IceMan - General
Hi, Just some info regarding the ALU frames. They are 6mm aluminium water jet cut. They have been slightly improved over original. Such as square holes for Z-Motor cable plugs to fit through frame, Hole to accomodate Z-Endstop cable. Electronics are mounted on a separate plate. This so you do not have to drill the frame if your electronics do not match the holes in the frame. You can also make/pby IceMan - Australia - for sale
Hi all, Yes it is M5 Z-rod. I have done some experimenting with the z-rod and the "easy-made-coupling" of water tube (aquarium tube). All you need is approx 50mm of clear tube with an inside dia of 4mm. This fits snug onto your 5mm stepper shaft and the M5 rod can be threaded in as well without too much of an issue. Now the "secret" is to make sure the rod does not touch the stepper shaft. Leaveby IceMan - General
Hi, Sorry for the late reply. I have some photos of my first i3 on my blog, link in my signature below. And yes I am very happy with the print quality. It is probably no better then any other good printer set up correctly. I was looking for info some time back regarding i3's print quality and found very little info. For anyone out there wandering if it prints good...yes it does (mine has got a boby IceMan - General
Hi all, I supply Prusa i3 parts and kits in various stages in Adelaide. I also do a printing service of parts. Not just printer parts. Help and support is also available. My web shop is slowly coming together. Any questions I am more than happy to help out. Send me an email or give me a call. www.3Djunction.com.au Kind Regards Janby IceMan - Australia - for sale
uGen Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Sounds interesting, Jan. Sublime did the same with > his Tantillus printer; going as far as printing > pulleys for the Z axis in his cable driven Z > design. I never got the prints come out perfectly > round, so I pretty much abandoned the thought of > having printed fishing line pulleys. > Can you upload sby IceMan - General
crispy1 Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > > I have some ongoing experiments I'm doing with > fishing line in place of belts on a H-Bot, but I > think I'm gradually coming to the conclusion it > isn't worth the investment in time. I have a > workable solution currently, but the lack of > slippage comes down to holding very high tension > on thby IceMan - General
mikefazz Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I could certainly remove the inner wall in the SS > section and extend the bowden tube all the way to > the tip. > > Mike Ok, maybe I misunderstood. I am using part of the BT as a liner. The tube going from the extruder to the hotend is one part and another part of the tube is used as liner. I thought theby IceMan - General
dissidence Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > this is just s stupid thought maybe, but is there > a way to use the ptfe bowden tube in a hot end.? No it is not a stupid thought! I have sucessfully made myself a small hot end for my Prusa i3 and guess whats in the middle of it? You guessed it, part of the bowden tube. Have printed 3 complete kits for the i3 wiby IceMan - General
nophead Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Why not fix your printer so it prints round > circles?by IceMan - General
Hi, If you are printing object size about 20x20 (calibration piece/block) try speed in slic3r or Kisslicer around 20mm/s or even 10mm/s. This is just to see what's going on during your print process. (I have not seen that hot end before and know nothing about it as I make my own) Regards Janby IceMan - Reprappers
Hi, If your Z motors are ticking while stationary you may have the current set too high. If you do, it will slowly make them pulse and may move out of position. What is your nozzle size and what layer height are you using? Not sure what you mean by extruding at 0.4. Is this your extruded plastic dia, nozzle size or layer hight? As a starting point try layer hight 2/3 of nozzle size. If 0.35 nozzlby IceMan - Reprappers
printb.it Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > In the advanced section of Slic3r the First Layer > Width and all infill percentages to the same > number, I use 125% and then all the infills will > line up. Thank you! Regards Janby IceMan - Slic3r
Hi, I have seen this as well many times and I think it has got to do with the "springiness" of your steppers. The stepper is capable of holding the steps correctly but the mass of the moving part (table etc) causes the motor to fight back not to loose steps and it is this I call springiness. It is almost as if they have a built in dampening system. You get ghost ripples. I could be completey wroby IceMan - General