I was looking to upgrade my electronics and took the opportunity to play around with getting an LCD working. I picked up a RAMBo, a Full Graphic Smart Controller, and this adapter. On the software side, I fetched the latest release of Marlin (June, I didn't do a get of the current working set, just in case something might have broken it), and modified the proper files as prescribed on this Wikiby Mazaw - Firmware - mainstream and related support
I'll definitely pop in IRC once I'm back home. In advance, do you know if I'll need some tools or hardware beyond wrenches/sockets? It's funny that I was printing out some heart gears to take for my trip as a welcoming gift and, wouldn't you know it, the very last piece is 1/3 good, 1/3 skeletal, and 1/3 just plain not printed. lolby Mazaw - Reprappers
Since April I've been using a Makergear hot end and pushed a lot of plastic through it without any problems. It was my second one, the first one never let me put any plastic through it and clogged immediately, and the folks there were great about sending a replacement. Since then I've probably pushed about 7 pounds of PLA through between then and November and with what I consider heavy usage (Iby Mazaw - Reprappers
Any recommendations on a suitable low-temperature sealer for PLA? I actually use my printed shot glasses a lotby Mazaw - General
At that point I would seriously start look into getting a 4-wire PC fan. Designed to accept 25KHz PWM signals at 5 V max, steady 12 V input, and a tach output that you're free to ignore (or not). Unless you've got a whole mess of two wire fans for free, they don't really cost all that much more considering how easy they would be to integrate for our purposes. You can only go from 20% to 100% witby Mazaw - General
Which version of the hot end? What temperature did you have it set to? I was under the impression that changing the filament could only be done while the hot end was hot. I would do it quickly, push forward on the old filament by hand slightly and then withdraw to get a nice "lump" at the end instead of a long spider-silk thread, then quickly insert the new filament and push by hand until I seeby Mazaw - General
I found this YouTube playlist very useful in getting the gist of the whole thing down, even though my parts varied slightly. A very good free set of videos, so I reckon it would be tough to top that particularly when crowd-funding / donations are involved.by Mazaw - General
It is in PLA and I have experienced no melting at all, but I have only printed PLA and having a running fan probably helps prevent that. If I decide to start printing ABS I'll definitely switch the fan off and maybe that might encourage softening, but, really, on my carriage it's not terribly close to my Makergear hot end. Right now I'm using the Prusa i2 LM8UU x-carriage.by Mazaw - General Mendel Topics
I've seen morse code plastic on my first layer also when the nozzle is too far away from the bed. But checking good extrusion at temperature into free air is a good pre-flight check to make sure there are no current blockages.by Mazaw - General
I'm using this shroud and mount attached to my X carriage with a 10.5 CFM 40mm fan. Other mounts might be better, or allow you to get away with a slower fan, but that's what I use and I haven't had any problems with my bridges or curling upwards between layers. Nice part about that mount is that I was able to print a functional copy of it without a fan at all... but it did take a little babysittby Mazaw - General Mendel Topics
I happened to have tubing left over when I installed a toilet, there is a PVC hose used to route water from the filler nozzle directly into the overflow tube, called a fill tube. Fit nice and snug. If you're having trouble describing your application to the guy at the hardware store, say it's for that and they'll lead you right to it.by Mazaw - Reprappers
Interesting... when I built my printer, I used really large GT2 pulleys chosen specifically to get a nice round number of steps per mm (32 teeth, which comes out to 50 steps per mm with 1.8 deg @ 1/16). When I take the calipers to a print, I'm off by about 1% - 2% each dimension. I always figured it was because of slicing issues and wobbling, and completely ruled out the possibility of updating mby Mazaw - General
Following up, I set up two meters in the path of my hot end wiring, one for voltage, the other for amperage. Switched on after a few hours of time for the electronics to rest. Turned on the heat and noticed zero volts and zero amps. Probed the MOSFET with a thermometer, room temperature. Touched it and cool to the touch. Then I rubbed up against the connector and all of a sudden the meters showedby Mazaw - Controllers
Resistance checks out, 7 ohms, same as when new. The Makergear hot end is basically nichrome wire, insulated by kapton tape, over a few loops in the threads of a heater barrel. Then it's entombed in a ceramic goop. I don't think it's broken in there. But now that you mention thermal cutoff, it might make sense why the heater all of a sudden decides to start working after a period of "off" time.by Mazaw - Controllers
I'm using a Sanguinololu 1.3a, but I think this might be an applicable question for any electronics, so that's why I'm posting here. In which ways can a MOSFET fail? Started a big print and when I came back, I found that Marlin prevented cold extrusion halfway through the job (thank goodness!) and the hot end was cold. In stopped mode, I set the temperature to 185 and it started getting hot (goby Mazaw - Controllers
Skeinforge can output a report saying exactly how many grams are extruded in the print. You can even punch in your cost of material and it will calculate how much it will cost in plastic.by Mazaw - General
rogerw Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > that normally means putting the shooting party last and wondering what it is the sex party does. Hm, this thread will end well.by Mazaw - General
There is this tool by L4nce0 Punch in your nozzle diameter, Z steps per mm, and a "test increment" and it will calculate which layers line up best with your hardware. From seeing Nophead's comments in this thread, it seems the conclusions from that applet are somewhat controversial, and with the quality of prints he produces I'm likely to believe him! That said, the layer height I use the most,by Mazaw - General
The only way I've been able to print successfully on bare glass was with Ultimachine PLA. I can't afford to import Faberdashery PLA, but I would consider both premium plastic. Some cheaper PLA I bought have seemed to have an oil added to it that left deposits on my glass. Meaning, I would clean my glass, start to print, and then there would be problems with the first layer or the print would staby Mazaw - Printing
Looks heavily inspired by the Lulzbot TK-0.by Mazaw - General
richgain Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I'm interested in the PVA method. How do you apply > it to the bed, and how thickly? After mixing the solution in a water bottle, I keep it nearby. When I'm ready to apply, first I clean the glass as sparkling as possible, then shake the bottle and give it about 2 minutes for the bubbles to settle. Then I pour a bitby Mazaw - General
I've had pretty variable results with PLA directly on bare glass. Ultimachine PLA works perfectly for me pretty much every time so long as my leveling + height and bed temperature are perfect, plus the glass is spotless. I started using some PLA I obtained a few months ago and not only would it not stick but it seemed to have an oil mixed in that required much more Windex to clean the glass, andby Mazaw - General
Are you printing in PLA? This problem has been haunting me from day one doing just that. I've heard that lowering the infill reduces the stress that causes the topsides to curl upwards, but I don't like how there's so much retraction during printing when my infill is too low (I use slic3r). My solution was a brute force solution: use a stronger fan. Before a fan it was a crap shoot when it woulby Mazaw - Printing
akhlut Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > What chaps my ass is the appropriation of any/all > work uploaded by individuals to thingiverse by > makerbot. Essentially they are saying "We'll host > your IP and distribute it to others under a > license you specify. By the way the IP is no > longer yours, it is ours." Part of the plan is revealed: Makeby Mazaw - General
Benny Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Anyone know a programm to mirror thingiverse on > the harddisk for backup? Check out the man page on wget, probably going to give it a spin later tonightby Mazaw - General
Any idea what caused that jitter on the 17 minute (third) print? I thought it might have been extra speed but it calmed down for the fourth print. They look gorgeous, though!by Mazaw - General
It's a bit of a hack, but one suggestion I see a lot is that you should try printing more than one at a time, so that gives each layer time to cool while it's printing the other copies. I wonder what the "real" solution is, though.by Mazaw - Printing
@NelsonRap: I'm using a 0.2mm layer height with a 0.35mm nozzle. Comes up on Josef's calculator as the suggested layer height for the nozzle size. I'm using PLA to print, and generally speaking it stays flat on the bed. I say generally speaking since, once the curling happens, the nozzle will run into the curls. If the curls start low enough in the piece, which they do when printing bar clamps, tby Mazaw - Reprappers
I've been plagued by prints that curl on the top layers causing the nozzle to bump into them and basically ruining prints so I printed this fan mount and things improved dramatically. However, I'm still having curling issues on the opposite side of where the fan is. I tried printing pulleys and it's comical how one side is perfect and the other side has curled spikes like a crown. I was going toby Mazaw - Reprappers