Can you PM me with the Ontario Supplier? Thanks, -Rob A.by RobA - General
Sorry - I messed that up - I was too quick glancing at your diagram. It is Y backlash. So all the same things but on the Y axis. See the attached diagram I generated from a spreadsheet model of backlash. This was for a backlash of 5% of the radius. (i.e. a 20mm dia circle would look like this with 0.5mm of backlash in the system). If anyone wants to play with it I've uploaded the spreadsheetby RobA - Printing
QuoteChri Best way is to modify your printer so Z uses only one Stepper and Disable Z-hold, then you can adjust your heigh as you want, that especially helps when printing very small and thin layer Chri I have an original mendel (one z stepper and a belt) so that is exactly what I have the luxery of doing. I always leave my z slightly high and then manually lower it to just the right height wby RobA - Printing
Quotejaques That's a very good explanation, and something I was thinking about myself before. However, I've made the belts as tight as possible (more causes binding) and as loose as possible. Results are the same. I also don't notice any slack on the belts while printing those parts. I've also printed the same circles at 50% and 150% speeds with the same results, if this helps. Could it be a pby RobA - Printing
I just use an off-board IRLB8743 with its own power feed. -Rob A.by RobA - Developers
You have reinvented the original Mendel which used this idea for all its bearings -Rob A>by RobA - Mechanics
QuoteMiertam Would a 3 axis bearing like a roller coaster wheel work in this situation? You could use thiner rods/tubes with support welded to the back. If you used tubes you could make the supports do double duty as connectors allowing you to create a linear run as long as you want. Thanks Mike That's how the original mendel was set up. No linear bearings. -Rob A>by RobA - Mechanics
Rather than a fan, how about just a pump (like in a compressor), into a accumulator tank that then feeds your blower hose? Something like a reciprocating piston pump driven by a crank, combines with a couple of valves (marble+spring, diaphragm flap, etc.) -Rob A.by RobA - Developers
I was having an intermittent MINTEMP triggered error as well. Turned out to be cross-talk from the extruder stepper wiring and the thermistor, which I was able to see by putting a scope on the input to the board, I replaced the thermistor wire with sheilded twisted pair and have never had the problem again,. -Rob A>by RobA - Reprappers
(American) Football shaped circles are a sign of mechanical backlash. Either as tleneel suggests belt(s) too loose, or a pulley is slipping on a motor shaft. -Rob A>by RobA - Printing
This came out in November: And the company can make custom inks: -Rob A>by RobA - Paste Extrusion Working Group
I answered in your other post. This is a sign of backlash in one or both axis. You would see the same oval shape printing any circular object but it will not manifest when printing cubes oriented on the axis as you can "calibrate" out the backlash. -Rob A>by RobA - Slic3r
I wrote a gimp plugin to export dat files that the surface command can utilize: but that surface you linked to does not look like a useful depthmap (heightfiled) rendered output attached it looks more like a normal map or an edgemap. -Rob A>by RobA - 3D Design tools
This is backlash on one (or both axis). Check that your belts are adequately tight and there is no slop in them. -Rob A>by RobA - Mechanics
It looks in the first picture that you have a backlash problem causing alternating infill lines to be spaced apart and together. I've cropped and drawn what it looks like (attached) If you do have backlash causing this (I did on my printer) you will have tremendous problems getting the infill both non-porous and not globby/overextruded. -Rob A>by RobA - General
I was having the same issue on my hot end. I replaced the thermistor wires with shielded twisted pair, and added a tantalum capacitor just before the ramps board, and the drops have all gone away. This was after throwing a scope across the thermistor line and seeing how bad the noise was... -Rob A>by RobA - Reprappers
Slic3r has a SVG export option for DLP. -Rob A>by RobA - 3D Design tools
You could add a post-processing script to slic3r to reset the temperature every Z move.... bit kludgy, mut it might help. STF for "slic3r post processing" for examples. -Rob A>by RobA - Reprappers
My printer has an older RAMPS 1.2 Is there any way to connect an LCD display + rotary selector knob plus SD card reader to this board? Thanks- -Rob A>by RobA - RAMPS Electronics
Scubasteve23 Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Well I have made up my mind and I am going to go > with the Eckertech Printer the Ecksbot. I really > like that they have created a soild version of the > Prusa Mendel and incorporated the best parts of > the Mendel. Also the support that I will receive > will be better than any other dealer I have spoby RobA - Canada, Toronto RepRap User Group
How about something like this: -Rob A>by RobA - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
I switched to a IRLB8743 and can get away with a 1cm2 heatsink with no fan, and it remains touch cool. -Rob A>by RobA - General
There is a varient written in python as a post-processor for Cura: (from this page: ) Maybe thios could be called with the postprocessing scrip option? -Rob A>by RobA - Slic3r
And depending on the slicer you use, there are often options to infill every X layers. This lets you reduce perimeter thickness while keeping the infill extrusion thicker so it spans better. -Rob A>by RobA - Printing
The Ecksbot by eckertech might be at the top of your price range but is a solid, easy to assemble kit with a fairly active developer. -Rob A>by RobA - General
Look at any of the provided examples (i.e. example007.scad) You need to extrude the imported file to get any geometry. -Rob A.by RobA - 3D Design tools
Jasper1984 Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Stupid question: How do i use it? According to the > wikibook, i must 'simply', but one does not > simply. Frankly i am also against simplying. Assuming you have gimp with python support installed, just save the file as openscad_surface_export.py in your plugin folder. Then after creating/opening an image, perby RobA - 3D Design tools
Along those lines, I also had an issue when the stepper wires were bundled with the endstop wires. There was crosstalk that was creating false endstop events randomly. -Rob A>by RobA - General Mendel Topics
I'll second Clem's suggestion. If you have a HPB there is no need to use tape for PLA. Just keep the first layer low and slow. Depending on the PLA I use, my HPB is between 60 and 90 degrees and gets a good stick. Also, If you have a fan (recommended) blowing on the printed piece to minimize curl-up, don't turn it on until after the second or third layer. -Rob A>by RobA - General Mendel Topics
I wrote a python export plugin for gimp to generate openscad surfaces : here is a grab of a heightfield source image and the resultant image in openSCAD: -Rob A>by RobA - 3D Design tools