Hey all, I finally got my z probe working for auto leveling and it's a whole new world. No more bits of paper every-time I change the glass or tape or someone opens a door etc, etc.... Had me going for a while until I realized that the probe must go up to the #define Z_CLEARANCE_DEPLOY_PROBE setting before it starts the auto leveling. The original setting was 10mm and when I tried to auto levby gregted - Reprappers
Hey all, I'm about to install a 1280 chip on my gen 6 board to allow auto leveling and I want to back up my current settings. I've read the posts here but I am trying to send this... avrdude -p atmega644p -P com3 -c stk500v2 -b115200 -F -U flash:w:woody_backup.hex:i And I get an error that says.. unexpected constructor, destructor, or type conversion before '-' token. Any ideas... Gregby gregted - Sanguino(lolu)
I want to print a part but only want the area around the holes to be 100% and the rest of the model at 50%. I want to do this because at 50%, when I tighten the bolts down, they crush the pla. If the area immediately around the bolt holes was 100%, all would be good. I have tried to break the file down to parts and align them on cura but cura won't let me have parts touching and moves them apaby gregted - Reprappers
Thanks stephenrc, Turned out I had moved the delta settings up in Marlin Config.h to make it easier to adjust settings but I moved them too far up before the connection and baud rate settings so Marlin was ignoring them. Move them below these lines and now all is good.by gregted - Reprappers
I got my delta running and while trying to adjust settings in Marlin and then uploading, I get no change to the delta. It is uploading ok but I change X,Y or Z endstop offsets and they don't change anything when I retry home position on my delta. I have mechanical end-stops which I can adjust so not a biggy but it still doesn't make sense. Also I have a high spot ( 1.5mm) in the centre and I aby gregted - Reprappers
What obewan said. Press each endstop in turn and type M119 when each is pressed. Response should be TRIGGERED when pressed. If this works, I would unplug all steppers and then plug each in turn and try to home. Eg... plug in X stepper and press X Home. when x is moving, press the X endstop plug in Y stepper and press Y home. When Y is moving, press the Y endstop This will tell you ifby gregted - Reprappers
Hey all. I have just built a delta and am trying to upload Marlin to my mega but get this error. Error compiling for board Arduino/Genuino mega or 2560. I have tried the marlin sketch from Richrap that he uses on his 3dr and another from github. I have chosen motherboard 33 as ramps 1.4. I think the board is ok as i can upload the blink sketch with no problems. I have a Prusa3 that i built aboutby gregted - Delta Machines
Thanks for the link. Looks like they'll be getting some of my money.by gregted - Reprappers
G'day all. I have been using my prusa for about 4 years now and have decided to build a Kossel delta. Finding a supplier of 2020 aluminium extrusions is turning into the biggest headache of the build. I live near Gladstone Qld. If anyone can connect me with a supplier i would be very gratefull.by gregted - Reprappers
Hi all, I have been using my reprap a bit lately and I noticed the wiring from my computer power supply melting onto the plug that connects to the ramps board. I have replaced the plugs a few times but I think this could be solved by connecting the bed directly to the psu through a relay but can't seem to find anything on this. I have done many searches and am probably just not wording it right.by gregted - Reprappers
Might have had a win reconnecting to my board after a new computer install but still getting one error message. I have included a pic of the results after trying to compile my sketch. I have reinstalled sprinter and this seems to have helped but I don't understand this error and a search brings up no results so any help appreciated.by gregted - Reprappers
Thanks for the replys. I have recently set up my printer after changing computers and now can't send new settings to my sanguino board. I have been reading so many threads and instructions today on this that it is driving me crazy. I have now got 2 versions of Arduino, 0018 which was recommended when I bought the board and did work before the new computer was needed. And the latest version thby gregted - Reprappers
Finally...... I seem to be having a win with my prints sticking very well.. I had a re-think about the logics of sticking from the tape to the glass and then the abs to the tape. The blue painters tape was sticking like the proverbial sh#t to a blanket so I turned to the adhesion of the abs to the tape. I thought maybe the surface of the tape wasn't sticky enough so I tried plain brand hair sprayby gregted - Reprappers
Under settings, options, user interface tick 2 boxes at the top. Enable Slic3r integration and Update slic3r default presets. Restart pronterface. You will now have a new menu item at the top that says slic3r. This will show you what your current settings are and when you change anything in slicer and save it as my settings for example, it will be saved as current settings. The odd thing now isby gregted - Reprappers
I will have to get a solid state relay as you suggest. I hooked up a relay as the pic and the hot bed wouldn't stop heating at 110. Got to 150 before I cut the power and cracked my glass. No problem. I've got lots of glass. I doubled up the wires from ramps to about 6 inches down and then into 10 amp wires to the hotbed. Seems to be fine now. Just built a heated compartment for my printer to stoby gregted - Reprappers
Hi, I am using sketchup8 and a few years ago i could download an stl importer for this program but now all the ones I have found seem to be trial versions before I have to pay. Does anyone have a link to a good free stl importer?by gregted - Reprappers
Not a bad looking build there Harry, I would go with a calibration print like a 20x20x20 hollow cube and get that right. My hollow cube uses about 115mm filament and takes 7 minutes. I have included the stl file if you want to use it. Print and check with digital calipers. It will also show you the layers and detail and you can adjust and reprint. Lots of adjustment and calibration at the staby gregted - Reprappers
Quotefredted1234 Hi im tryin to use SD ramps, im enabled it in marlin. the software pronterface can pick up the sd card and read the file. when i click on the file it loads the file and starts printing. however when i press the disconnect or pull out the cable from the pc it stops printing. the led is on on the arduino when i plug out the usb and the D1 and D2 is installed on the ramps. Does anyby gregted - Sanguino(lolu)
Great work on the blog. Impressive amount of information. Your attention to detail will be handy when it comes to calibration. That's where the really fine prints are made. My first print that I remember I was so proud of now looks like a Vincent Price nightmare.by gregted - Reprappers
What a nightmare this has been. Been trying to adjust settings in slic3r through pronterface for over a year. Slow learner hey. Anyway here is what I found. In pronterface, go to settings, options, user interface. Tick both boxes that are enable slic3r integration and update slic3r default presets. Enable slic3r integration adds a slic3r settings menu item to the pronterface taskbar. Pic 1 Updby gregted - Reprappers
Had the same problem with mine at the start. Worked out that the z axis smooth rods needed to be adjusted out or in to compensate for the lean. As the print travels up and away from the bed, the print head will attempt to auto-correct to true vertical in relation to the top of its travel, so if the print is leaning to the right for example, you have to adjust the bottom of the smooth z guide rodby gregted - Reprappers
Might have solved my problem. I changed the old psu wires from the supply to a cd rom that used to run from the circuit board to the hotbed with much thicker wires and also placed the exhaust air from the computer power supply to cool the board and the wires don't even get warm to the touch. I like the idea of a relay and now you have explained the connections so well, I might try that soon alsby gregted - Reprappers
QuoteHarveyC Another thought... Pronterface stores its settings in a file called .pronsolerc, its a text file without an extension. If there is one in C:\User\{user} it uses that by default, but if this one is not present it will use one located in the same directory as the one that holds pronterface.exe. If both are prersent it uses the one in c:\user\{user} ( I got caught out by this recently!by gregted - Reprappers
Thanks all for the replys. I have not been printing for a while as the new board also melted and I got sick of buying boards. I will buy some new headers and resolder my board and see how that goes. I have replaced the hotbed wires with much thicker ones so we will see how that goes. I have attached pics of the old melted board and the new thicker wires on my new board. If that still gets hot,by gregted - Reprappers
Hey Rappers, Had the same problem with mine a while ago that stopped me from printing for a while. I replaced my board when the pin on the supply to my hotbed melted and fell off. I bought another board and the same thing happened again. I have just now replaced the wires from my board to my hotbed with much thicker wires. The old wires were the power supply wires from an old computer supply toby gregted - Reprappers
Thanks HarveyC. I found that directory and the settings saved in the ini files are what I have set in pronterface but pronterface is not reading those settings from the console. If I open a file under plater and then save the gcode file and load that file all is good. However if I load a file directly into pronterface and print, the print turns out with the parameters that were in the originalby gregted - Reprappers
Only command at start of gcode is G28; home all axis. Another reason I think pronterface is not reading sli3er is when I downloaded pronterface, it had a command at the start something like G1 Z5 S5000. This caused the print head to retract about 10mm until the temp reached 200 and then it would return to the table and start to print. I removed this comment line and pronterface still does thisby gregted - Reprappers
Thanks for the replys. I am using the same wire thickness for the hot end as the hot bed and the hot end connections are fine. The hot end is running at 230c and the hot bed at 110c max so it doesn't make a lot of sense but I will beef up the wires on the hot bed tomorrow. The connections on the sanguinololu are a 4 in line set but I only have 2 wires from my hot bed so not sure how to doubleby gregted - Reprappers
Thanks for the reply. I have changed the settings in sli3er to zero but it doesn't seem to be reading the settings. The only way I can get a print is to generate the g code in sli3er and save and then load this g code or pause the print at the start and set the hot end to 230 and then continue. I don't know why but pronterface doesn't seem to read the settings at startup. I have saved the newby gregted - Reprappers
Something that is happening too often on my printer is the four pin flat connector from my hotbed is melting the wires in the plug and sticking the plug to the sanguinololu board. I am on my second board and I have had to change the plug again just in time to not melt the plug to the board. The power plug from my computer power supply is also looking blackened both on the board and the plug butby gregted - Reprappers