Show all posts by user
People building or using RepRaps.
Re: Kisslicer... somehow is GREAT - 6 years ago
Quotefrankvdh QuoteTinchus Quotefrankvdh Sounded good, so I thought I'd give it a try. Bizarrely, it appears that it only knows 3 kinds of firmware: 3D Systems, 5D Relative E, and 5D Absolute E ("most common"). Or maybe the list scroller/selector thing is broken. Either way, deleted it again. Well, yes, as I said, it lacks of "common" features present in other slicers. That's a huge understateby Polygonhell - General
Re: CoreXY or Ultimaker gantry - 6 years ago
It’s arrranged so the side that needs to be parallel for linear motion is. I used v-groove pulleys, the angles are negligible for any reasonably sized axis. The bigger issue is the angles between the grooves in the 2 drive pulleys, once the line is tensioned, you can hear the line as it comes in and out of the grooves. It worked fine and it’s trivial to machine. This might give you a better ideaby Polygonhell - CoreXY Machines
Re: CoreXY or Ultimaker gantry - 6 years ago
I did something similar years ago. [3dprinterhell.blogspot.com] It works fine, but IMO it’s just not worth the effort, belts and pulleys just aren’t that expensive anymore. I’ve built both corexy and ultimaker style gantries, I prefer the latter, but if the corexy design is sufficiently rigid they work fine as well. In fact my current project is a corexy design.by Polygonhell - CoreXY Machines
Re: Advice on where to get quality rods/shafts for my printer? - 7 years ago
Your going to want to know why the rods you bought didn’t work, otherwise you have no idea if the issue is the rod or the bearing, and if a replacement rod is going to work. Bearings are spec’d for specific clearances, and the diameter difference doesn’t have to be very much i.e much less than 0.1 mm before you will feel a significant difference. Also if the rod isn’t straight you’ll have bearingby Polygonhell - General
Re: A plea to firmware developers to use common GCode standards - 7 years ago
I agree that it’s a good idea, but the only way this is going to work is if you establish contact with the existing popular firmware owners, and remain in close communication as new features are added. It’s going to have to be a committee, informal or not. Even then it’s only likely to last until one of the major players strongly disagrees with something. CNC controller manufacturers can’t evenby Polygonhell - General
Re: Best 3d printer to make from scratch - 7 years ago
I don't often comment on these threads, but my 2c, on Cartesian designs, I've built hbot, core xy, ultimaker and more conventional gantries, and I'd pick the ultimaker design for a new build. Both Hbot and Core XY designs require a high degree of rigidity in the frame and high quality bearings to perform well IME, conversely it's hard to build a working ultimaker gantry that doesn't have close toby Polygonhell - General
Re: Timing belt Vs fishing line - 8 years ago
I did a number of experiments with fishing line a few years ago, ended up building 2 printers using spectra line, one based on the tantalus design, the other a CoreXY based machine. You can build accurate printers using fishing line, but line tensioning is critical, and it's much harder to get right than you might expect. A lot of the early line driven machines were delta machines, simply becausby Polygonhell - General
Re: My design of a CoreXY, reasonable large format. - 8 years ago
A moving bed on anything near that size is going to be a challenge, If you used a piece of 1/4 inch cast Aluminum, which is going to be the lightest flat thing of that size your likely to get it would weight at least 30lbs. And I haven't done the math but I suspect that a piece that long would have measurable droop in the middle unless it has some sort of support. It might well be easier to moveby Polygonhell - CoreXY Machines
Re: Rostock Max v1 acting wierd. - 8 years ago
Most likely you have bad endstop wiring, and/or firmware cofiguration problems. Assuming you are running a RAMBO with Repetier firmware 0.9+ then the homing sequence is each tower moves up until the endstop is hit, then moves down then moves back to the endstops, them moves down 5mm. I'd start by checking the endstops are responding using M119, the V2/3 manuals describe the correct behavior and yby Polygonhell - General
Re: Closed-source firmware for 3d printing options? - 9 years ago
As far as I'm aware, the majority of the common firmwares are derived from GRBL originally, it's GPL, so everything derived has to be. Your best bet short of starting from scratch or releasing the changes as PD, would be to find a none GRBL derived firmware with a single author, and convince them to sell you a version with a commercial license. Your probably not going to find a firmware to startby Polygonhell - General
Re: cheapst place for simplify 3d - 9 years ago
Simplify 3D's support is somewhat overrated, yes it's easy to remove, but that's because they leave a full layer between the support and the model, and as a result the surface quality over the support tends to be suspect. Being able to manually place/edit support though is a huge win if you print a lot of models that need support. I own it but I wouldn't recommend it for $150, I never liked 2.Xby Polygonhell - General
Re: Tantillus dimension question - 9 years ago
QuoteTibuck Did you use nema17 40 or 42mm motors ? Thanks I just used some steppers I had on hand, I'm fairly sure that it was these steppers I used If not those it was probably a set of these I'll check when I get home and verify which one but they are both more or less the same size.by Polygonhell - Tantillus
Re: Undersized circles - Has this been solved yet? - 10 years ago
Assuming your dimensions are correct for simple polygons, Nophead discussed this on his blog a couple of years ago. I think the major issue is corner cutting by the filament, but there are several contributing factors.by Polygonhell - Printing
Re: Microstep driver - 10 years ago
Repetier has an option to set the pulse width for the firmware I believe. Most firmware just toggle the line high low for a step,and the 4988 etc don't care, most larger drivers require a minimum pulse width, and possibly harder to guarantee a minimum time between a dir change and the first pulse being sent.by Polygonhell - General
Re: PLA, ABS Filament Supplier in USA?? - 10 years ago
I only buy from Ultimachine these days, at one point I looked at having filament manufactured and selling it, because so much of the filament I saw was crap. I spent a lot of time measuring filament from various vendors with a micrometer, outside the cheap Chinese stuff, most of it was inside the quoted spec, but where most 1.75mm PLA filament would vary by +/-0.1mm over even short lengths, the Uby Polygonhell - Reprappers
Re: Yet another question about self-design - 11 years ago
I cut my extrusions with a proxxon cutoff saw, but you can use any cutoff saw, you want a carbide tipped blade with as many teeth as you can get. I cut the chromed rods with the same saw using a carbon fiber cutoff wheel, you probably can't do that on a larger saw because of the lower RPM's.,, I have on the past marked the rods and used An angle grinder to cut them, my band saw will not cut throuby Polygonhell - Tantillus
Re: Tantillus dimension question - 11 years ago
It's relatively easy to make it laager, the issue is that if you go much bigger with 15mm extrusions, you have issues with tortional stiffness, using 20mm extrusions like the original goopy plastic design would probably let you get to 200x200. The z axis would have to have a larger lever for a larger bed also. Belts require messing with the X/Y bearing holders, I believer Sublime actually didby Polygonhell - Tantillus
Re: Tantillus dimension question - 11 years ago
And finally some pictures, mechanical parts work, need to put together the bed and do the wiring. Obviously heavily influenced by GoopyPlastics work, in fact the git hub repo is forked directly from his and the open bean solution maintained in a branch. Here you can see the flush Stepper mounts, the rod ends are drilled to 5mm, then cross drilled and tapped for an M3 grub screw to secure the sby Polygonhell - Tantillus
Re: Tantillus dimension question - 11 years ago
I figured I'd start without the holes and add them if they prove necessary, I ran 1000 or so 80mm circles without any obvious loss of position, so we'll see how it goes when I start printing. Most of the major components are complete except the print bed. Do you by any chance have the dimensions for the hole spacing on the two bed parts? If not I'll pull them off the laser cut DXF's I'll postby Polygonhell - Tantillus
Re: extruder nozzle design - why they are bad - 11 years ago
There are a hole host of issues at play, 3D printers are collections of compromises, they are in general not very stiff, the bearings are cheap and tend to have significant slop, but they are in general good enough for what they do. I fought Z Wobble on my MendelMax for months, tried pretty much every suggestion, my final fix was to move to Bronze bushings on the Axis. I have seen really good prby Polygonhell - General
Re: The old printers vs. The new wave - 11 years ago
QuoteMrDoctorDIV I just wonder about one thing that's, so far, prevented me from adding a delta to my planned collection: how are the straight lines? Architechtual prints? Accuracy on these? Is that something that varies from delta to delta? If they are well built and calibrated they are generally as good as a cartesian printer, usually with better layer alignment. The biggest issues with deltasby Polygonhell - General
Re: Tantillus dimension question - 11 years ago
Thanks, that's what I needed to know. I started with GoopyPlastics design, but ended up redrawing the case from scratch for the 15mm open beam. I have the steppers mounted directly to the case sides, I drilled out the drill rod ends, then drilled through and tapped the hole for a set screw, so the rod slides onto the stepper shaft. Not practical without a lathe, and it remains to be seen if theby Polygonhell - Tantillus
Tantillus dimension question - 11 years ago
What's the distance between the hole in the driving rod and the center of the rod running over it at 90 degrees? I assume this is offset lets the line wind on and off nicely. I had a ton of openbeam lying around, so I'm knocking up a Tantillus variant. My variant is direct drive, without couplers and I need to adjust the rod hole spacing, and it wasn't clear to me from the drawings what the critby Polygonhell - Tantillus
Re: Update on the E3D All Metal Hotend (Now finally shipping!) 
[Lots of pictures] - 11 years ago
Quote@polygonhell Where exactly am I measuring? From the threads of the nozzle to where the orifice starts? Could my problem really just be the nozzle? You need to measure the orifice length, general idea is, with the nozzle separate from the hotend, and cleaned out of all plastic, take a 2mm drill bit insert it into the nozzle, measure the length from drill bit start to nozzle end, remove drilby Polygonhell - General
Re: Update on the E3D All Metal Hotend (Now finally shipping!) [Lots of pictures] - 11 years ago
Quotejzatopa I got my e3d mounted and printing PLA the other day but it get it to print I need to keep the temp at 240-260C to prevent clogs. It prints fine at that temp but it gives my print a very glossy finish. Is anyone else experiencing anything like this? Check the actual vs reported temperature of the hotend with a thermocouple, one of the semitec thermistors I got with an E3D was 35Cby Polygonhell - General
Re: color filiment - 11 years ago
Generally there is good filament and bad filament, regardless of color. Technically it's easier to hide bad plastic in black filament, but I doubt it's a big factor if your buying from a quality vendor. Personally I buy only from ultimachine at this point, I just hate the wasted time from bad filament, the cheap filament I bought, I'd estimate about 20% was unusable, that's still technically cheby Polygonhell - General
Re: HBot using fishing line - 11 years ago
And another update This is pretty promising, there is an issue with the carriage geometry, the screws to attach the line too are too far apart, for what ever reason I located them such that the line would be correctly spaced when attached to the inner side of the screw, of course the line centered on the screw. The result of this is that as the carriage moves to the extremes and the angle ofby Polygonhell - Developers
Re: How does controller control motors? - 11 years ago
It's not really sending "instructions" to the motor. It's at a lower level than that, for each single step, the uController sets a data line, (one of the pins on the chip) low and then after a short delay high or viceversa. The stepper driver uses this signal to indicate that it should move the motor and changes the output current on the coils in the motor. In terms of speed, the GCode command sby Polygonhell - Reprappers
Re: What is Marlin? - 11 years ago
As far as I'm aware the documentation you are looking for does not exist. If you want the level of detail you are asking for you need to read the source code. One of the issues with open source development in general is that ten tend to evolve to meet the needs of the users who are also developers, and many of the external facing user centric things never get done. It's understandable, unless youby Polygonhell - General
Re: RAMPS overheats FAST!! - 11 years ago
Have you adjusted the pots on the drivers, they don't come adjusted, if they are set to high you will go into thermal protection on the drivers extremely quickly.by Polygonhell - General