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People building or using RepRaps.
Re: Large heated bed (300x300mm) - 12 years ago
I use with a 24volt 480 Watt psu that runs everything. I haven't had any power problems, heated bed gets to over 120C (I haven't tried any higher) and does it pretty quickly. I also use cork board as an insulator underneath the silicone pad.by ne7rag3 - Reprappers
Issues Printing a Prusa Mendel - 13 years ago
I'm trying to print a prusa mendel for a friend but plate one doesn't slice properly in slic3r, none of the holes for the sensor mounts print and the holes for mounting the slide rails on the x-axis idler and mount are not filled on the bottom are some of the problems I was having. I decided to print some of the parts individually to see if that would work, and it did except the lm8uu brackets doby ne7rag3 - General Mendel Topics
Print Bed variations - 13 years ago
So what different variations of Print Beds are people using? I started off with the acrylic/MK1 combination from MakerFarm but I had issues with the acrylic warping, so I replaced the piece of acrylic with 3/8 inch piece of plywood. I read that people like to use glass on top of their MK1 and that Kapton film provided the best ABS adhesion, so I've obtained a nice piece of ceramic glass (8"x8"x0by ne7rag3 - Reprappers
Re: Problems with shell layers not sitting on each other - 13 years ago
Well crap. Seems that is is only 10mm high, it is the 20mmbox.stl file. I guess I just always assumed that is was a cube and my calibration values were close to what other people were using, so I didn't bother checking the height. Thank you very much for your help.by ne7rag3 - Printing
Re: Problems with shell layers not sitting on each other - 13 years ago
it's a 20 x 20 x 20 mm cube, 230C, ABS, 60 mm/s. the actual measurements are 20 x 20 x 20.by ne7rag3 - Printing
[Solved]Problems with shell layers not sitting on each other - 13 years ago
I'm having a problem with the sides of my objects sticking together. As far as I can tell the infill is depositing extra material when it changes direction and the shell layers are then sitting on top of the extra material. I'm using Slic3r 0.7.2b, and Sprinter firmware. Any ideas for fixing this? I posted a picture of some of my sample cubes. Thank you in advance.by ne7rag3 - Printing
Re: Buying/Building My First RepRap - 13 years ago
Yeps, directly to the 12 volt line. You might want to run it on a separate line than you controller though, the heated bed seems to draw a bit of power an caused problems when on the same line as my controller.by ne7rag3 - Reprappers
Re: Buying/Building My First RepRap - 13 years ago
I'm pretty sure there's no harm in printing on the cold bed. The heated bed is there to make the plastic stick better and to prevent warping. I tested my bed's temp and found it floating around 110C on it's own, which I have read is the recommended temp for the heat bed for ABS.by ne7rag3 - Reprappers
Re: Buying/Building My First RepRap - 13 years ago
I just built mine, I spent a day building it and at least a day calibrating it. I used a PC power supply with no load and it worked just fine. My biggest problem was calibrating it. The makerfarm kit comes with a plexiglass plate under the heater board and i had problems with mine warping from the heat. Once I replace that with a piece of plywood, calibrating was much easier and I got much more cby ne7rag3 - Reprappers