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People building or using RepRaps.
Re: Printing in air? - 10 years ago
I printed the model sliced by kisslicer with 'coarse' support material. As you can see it is much better than the first one I did with slic3r, but still impossible to clean up. Yup I think I’m done trying this with PLA. Even if ABS would be easier to remove I think this particular model only PVA would do the trick in a dual extrusion setup.by iLikeWaffles - Reprappers
Re: Printing in air? - 10 years ago
Thanks for the help guys. Couple more questions about kisslicer... 1. Under printer tab: what do you guys have for 'loop/solid infill overlap' value? I think I want the infill to hit the perimeter loops so the value should be 1.00 right? 2. Under material tab: do you guys have a value under 'wipe' ? I don't really see it necessary. I sliced my model using kisslicer and tried to print using reby iLikeWaffles - Reprappers
Re: Printing in air? - 10 years ago
I downloaded kisslicer this morning, but the different settings are a little puzzling. It will probably take some reading on their forum to get familiar. What printer are you working with?by iLikeWaffles - Reprappers
Re: Printing in air? - 10 years ago
^^let me know what you find out. I printed my model in PLA with honeycomb support material. As you can see it is impossible to clean up. PVA support material would be the only viable option here. Can someone please explain pattern spacing and pattern angle in slic3r? I think I understand spacing: if I increase the spacing I will decrease the amount of support material generated correct?by iLikeWaffles - Reprappers
Re: Printing in air? - 10 years ago
I have been looking into PVA, but I do not have dual extrusion at this moment. Maybe in the future if I deem it necessary I will install it. I was thinking of cutting the thing in half vertically and printing two pieces then gluing it, but those vertical pillars will not print because they would be horizontally in air. STL attached.by iLikeWaffles - Reprappers
Printing in air? - 10 years ago
Is it possible to print in air without support structure? I don't mean just a straight bridge. What I mean is: is it possible to print bends and corners in air? I'm thinking of printing a fan duct to focus high flow air on the nozzle tip to solidify the plastic instantly, but if this whole thing is not possible then I will scratch the idea. Maybe the high flow air would have to be so powerfuby iLikeWaffles - Reprappers
Re: abs zits and extraneous material - 10 years ago
Is this caused by not enough retraction?by iLikeWaffles - Reprappers
Re: Why would my hotend shut off after 5 hours into an 8 hour print? - 10 years ago
So I tried printing the same 9 hour object again in pronterface and again the hotend shut off at the same exact time. At the 6.5 hour mark to be exact. I was watching like a hawk so I quickly turned it back on, but there was no message in the pronterface gcode log that said it shut off. The print finished fine after I turned the hotend back on. Weird. Especially since it shut off at the 6.5 hoby iLikeWaffles - Reprappers
Re: Why would my hotend shut off after 5 hours into an 8 hour print? - 10 years ago
Thanks for the suggestion; I just downloaded it and will give it a shot. I was using pronterface with slic3r 0.7.1, which is an old version. There are only two things that can turn my hotend off: the electronics or software right? I will try a long print with repetier and see what happens. Thanks, Daveby iLikeWaffles - Reprappers
Re: Why would my hotend shut off after 5 hours into an 8 hour print? - 10 years ago
This is really frustrating. I just switched to PLA today and was doing a 9 hour large print no problem with no lifting finally. Then 7 hours into the print the hotend shut off. I remember back in the day my heatbed would shut off after a minute, but it was because the fuse or transistor was overheating on the RAMPS board, which I remedied with fans. Since I switched to PLA I'm printing at a mby iLikeWaffles - Reprappers
Why would my hotend shut off after 5 hours into an 8 hour print? - 10 years ago
Hi, I let an 8 hour print go overnight. Watched it for an hour and everything was fine before I went to bed. Got up 5 hours later to find the printer doing it's motions, but nothing coming out of the hot end. The extruder was trying to push filament, but obviously it was just clicking. I noticed the hotend was turned off. I was able to turn it back on in Pronterface, but at that point I shutby iLikeWaffles - Reprappers
Re: Western Mass - Springfield area - 11 years ago
Sounds cool. I finally finished mine and have been printing nonstop. My quality has been increasing with time. This is a great forum for answers to any issues you may have. I'm no expert, but if you run into any problems let me know.by iLikeWaffles - Massachusetts, Boston RepRap User Group
Re: My Prusa build - Trials and Tribulations - 11 years ago
I installed a fan on the x-carriage, but then my hot-end temps would not go above 210°C. Turns out the fan was too strong so I downsized and all seems ok. Now I’m trying to iron out little details to get good prints. 1. I think I have to slow down the print speeds from the default slic3r settings. The plastic just doesn’t stick good enough in some spots when this thing is flying aroundby iLikeWaffles - Reprappers
Re: My Prusa build - Trials and Tribulations - 11 years ago
NewPerfection Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > If your carriage and extruder are PLA you have to > have a fan blowing over the thermal break of the > hot end. If you are printing PLA it is also a > good idea as it will lessen the chance of your > extruder jamming because the filament softens too > far up the hot end. Thanks for the info. I willby iLikeWaffles - Reprappers
Re: My Prusa build - Trials and Tribulations - 11 years ago
Ok I have a huge problem(s)... 1. Why does my first layer y-axis offset on some prints, as you can see from the print below? 2. What should I do about melted extruder base? At first I noticed the print is slowly offsetting so I thought the issue was related to my first layer problem, but then noticed the extruder/hot-end was tilted pretty good. The combination of the heatbed and extruder tby iLikeWaffles - Reprappers
Re: My Prusa build - Trials and Tribulations - 11 years ago
Thanks for all the info guys. I finally finished a week ago and did my first print. It was not bad for a first print without a heat bed and minimal calibration. It definitely wasn't a blob... I finally got my heat bed issues taken care of. The problem was that it was shutting off after 15 seconds due to overheating on the RAMPS board. My heat bed is .75Ω so it draws 16A. I made an enclosby iLikeWaffles - Reprappers
Re: Bad RAMPS board? - 11 years ago
My heated bed is 0.75Ω so it pulls about 16A. I installed 2 high velocity fans around the RAMPS and everything is fine. I was able to heat the bed to 110°C for 1 hour continuous with no problems. My entire machine pulls 21A when everything is turned on. This is fine because I have a 30A medical grade power supply.by iLikeWaffles - RAMPS Electronics
Re: Bad RAMPS board? - 11 years ago
I'm having the same issue. Assembled board from Ebay. Fuse F2 heats up to 80°C!!! The board and led turn on, but shut off after about 15 seconds. I'm using Pronterface with Slicer 0.7.1. If I were to start replacing components should I replace Q3 and F2? The markings on the F2 fuse are... B R1100 1180S EDIT: I will try a high speed small fan tomorrow.by iLikeWaffles - RAMPS Electronics
Re: My Prusa build - Trials and Tribulations - 11 years ago
I notice on the RAMPS 1.4 board there are 2 headers in the Z-axis slot. Can I plug in the motors individually or do I still have to wire them together first and then just use one plug?by iLikeWaffles - Reprappers
Re: My Prusa build - Trials and Tribulations - 11 years ago
nophead Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Are you sure the Z couplers are for M4? They look > very much like the ones I designed, which are for > M3. They have nut traps and the only nut big enough to fit was an M4. I did have to drill the holes a little to push the M4 screws through. Also...rubber tubing is not required on the motor shaft as the insideby iLikeWaffles - Reprappers
Re: My Prusa build - Trials and Tribulations - 11 years ago
nophead Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I recommend making a heatshield like this: > > t_Shield to prevent any warping of the plexiglass. > Even if it does not get hot enough to go soft the > fact it is heated on one side only can make it > curl a little and because the bearings are not > attached near where the bed is a tiny amount of > cby iLikeWaffles - Reprappers
My Prusa build - Trials and Tribulations - 11 years ago
Probably best to start my own build thread so I can ask questions as I progress with my build. I ended up buying parts from 6 different vendors on 3 continents, which has turned out to be a bit of a hassle. Word of advice to anyone who wants to build one for the first time: buy a kit from a single vendor or purchase all your components from a single BOM and follow a single set of instructionsby iLikeWaffles - Reprappers
Western Mass - Springfield area - 11 years ago
Anyone building or has one built? I am in the process of building a Mendel Prusa i2. Running into a couple snags, but it's definitely moving along.by iLikeWaffles - Massachusetts, Boston RepRap User Group
Re: Building first Prusa - confused on rod lenghts - 11 years ago
NelsonRap Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The two 420mm ones need to be 400 for the V2 > prusa. Here is my cutting list fro Prusa V2 kits I > sell here in NZ NelsonRap, so do you jig your triangles to 290mm and the horizontal pieces to 234mm? I jigged the horizontal pieces to 234mm but the triangles to 305mm. Will this make a difference? People on IRCby iLikeWaffles - Reprappers
Re: Building first Prusa - confused on rod lenghts - 11 years ago
Well now I am extra confused since I thought my smooth rods are ok. In the V2 X-axis instructions it says... Quote2 495mm smooth rods (420mm in recent instructions) I have 420mm's so I should be good in that respect. It's the threaded rods and the jigging that have me confused. The whole first paragraph in the instructions has me confused. Why does it say this??... Quote In this manual itby iLikeWaffles - Reprappers
Building first Prusa - confused on rod lenghts - 11 years ago
Hello, I am in the process of building my first Prusa (iteration 2) and I see conflicting info on the rod lenghts. I am following the Prusa Mendel Assembly (iteration 2) instructions. At the beginning of the instructions is says... QuoteIn this manual it is assumed that the smooth rods are 405mm each. The resulting threaded rod lengths are: 1x 500mm - low center rod 2x 450mm - top rods 6by iLikeWaffles - Reprappers