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Re: Using google sketch up - 11 years ago

If you want to post the gcode file, I can take a look at that too but everything else looks and acts fine.

by unlucky1 - Reprappers

Re: Using google sketch up - 11 years ago

FYI, Slic3r will not show the holes, mine did not with your stl. you will only see the holes in certain viewers like the one in repitier and they show up fine. Pronterface allows you to move through the sliced layers and you should see them in there also. Slicer does not have much of a viewer. load repitier if ould to load the gcode and look at it. I use it for everything now. Took a little

by unlucky1 - Reprappers

Re: Lulzbot Budasnozzle PLA Retraction help needed - 11 years ago

I appreciate all the info. 1. belaive you me, I have done the single wall test about 20 times and adjusted my esteps accordingly. 2. The 5 to 8 mm retraction distance seems ridiculous but I have tough also that the filiment was not having enough time to cool and it was catching it ever so slightly and dragging it. I have also printed at 10mm per second for that reason to see if that would sto

by unlucky1 - Reprappers

Re: Lulzbot Budasnozzle PLA Retraction help needed - 11 years ago

Not getting much feedback here. Are most people printing with ABS using the budaschnozzle?

by unlucky1 - Reprappers

Re: Using google sketch up - 11 years ago

If you post the stl you are outputing, I can take a look at it too. If hte stl is bad, you need to update or reinstall your slic3r. I 2nd repitier host, i use it as well and it has a pretty new version of slic3r built in.

by unlucky1 - Reprappers

Re: Lulzbot Budasnozzle PLA Retraction help needed - 11 years ago

I have pid tuned and no luck with that. My Marlin was downloaded about a week or two ago from github. I also played with the temperature settings really high and really low. To low and I get layering issues. My issue if you watch it carefully when its printing, is like it smears the filament when it moves across the bed to a new island. I also tried raising the z on retract just for fun with

by unlucky1 - Reprappers

Re: Using google sketch up - 11 years ago

ok, just pulled it up in sketchup and it looked good. I exported it as an stl file and specified mm and saved it and pulled it up in netfabb running locally and it looks good as well. Can you tell me what slic3r is showing or is it giving you an error? Be sure to specify mm when exporting the stl file as well. I assume you are using a plugin to export it to an stl and not just changing the fi

by unlucky1 - Reprappers

Re: Using google sketch up - 11 years ago

Think of your object as a container to hold water. Each hollow part has to be leak proof. I use cloud.netfabb.com as well because it will fix things that the free version will not. One small point between two lines can cause you issues, again water tight in general. Another thing I ran into was that there is an inside and outside wall on your objects. They will generally have different color

by unlucky1 - Reprappers

Re: Open an STL file to make changes to the part - 11 years ago

I use the Jim Fultz plugin all the time to import stl files into sketchup. I like sketchup for the most part but end up tweeking a few things and using a few plugins. Sketucation has a bunch of helpful plugins for finding the center points and importing and .... If the stl file is giving you issues, you may be able to go to cloud.netfab.com and have it fix the file and then try to import it.

by unlucky1 - Reprappers

Re: Using google sketch up - 11 years ago

Yes you can use it but there are a few tricks to using it. You will need to add a plugin to export to stl files to print and there are a couple of other things I use on occasion. Search for the following plugins. STL For Sketchup Soundforge Import and export tt_cleanup Centerpoint All Delete Coplaner edges I purchased this and it can be helpful but not required, saves some time. "SU Solid Free

by unlucky1 - Reprappers

Lulzbot Budasnozzle PLA Retraction help needed - 11 years ago

Ok, reprap Prusa Mendal. Running Marlin Firmware (within 2 week old version). Using Slic3r Version 0.9.7, Tried 0.9.8 also with same results as picture above. I am printing 3mm PLA filament and have adjusted the retraction speed from 5 to 45 in slic3r and the length from .5 to 3mm. I have also changed the e jerk setting from 5 to 35 in about ever variation I can think of. The issue is when c

by unlucky1 - Reprappers

Re: Budaschnozzle 1.2 on a reprap mendal - 11 years ago

Polygonhell, thanks for the info. I am using 3mm filament. I have been fighting my jhead since I bought it months ago. The plan is to put my new hot end on my i2 and tune it in and print my parts for the i3 i have been working on using the new hotend. I am so frustrated with the hjead .4mm v-b that I could scream. I bet I have spent 100+ hours and a pound of filament just trying to tweek it

by unlucky1 - Reprappers

Re: Budaschnozzle 1.2 on a reprap mendal - 11 years ago

Also, I would like to use lm8uu bearings if possible. I have a few extras and no short bushings.

by unlucky1 - Reprappers

Budaschnozzle 1.2 on a reprap mendal - 11 years ago

I am currently running a j-head hotend and just ordered a Budaschnozzle 1.2. Can anyone tell me where I can get compatible stl files to print an x-carrage and wades extruder. My wades has a hole in the bottom for the jhead to recess into and the Budaschnozzle 1.2 does not recess. I would prefer a mounting system with a fan mount or two for cooling the hotend and the printing surface but needin

by unlucky1 - Reprappers

Re: Prusa I3 Build Question - 11 years ago

Thanks for the reply. Just to let you know, i am not the woodworker. This is my 3rd box I have cut with a table saw. I have cut all my board this time and have made sure that the fence on the table saw was square and used my square to ensure it was as well. I do not mind the extra weight but I am going to mind the confusion I will cause myself with the bottom board. Maybe I will get a piece

by unlucky1 - Reprappers

Re: Print Quality Issues - 11 years ago

I am not to familiar with the thermister settings in the firmware but I would recommend you start a print and lower your temp about 5 or 10 degrees every couple of layers until you get to a point that it appears it can not extrude properly, you will see dots instead of a line. When that happens, start raising the temp 5 or 10 degrees at a time until you are extruding well. Whatever the degrees

by unlucky1 - Reprappers

Prusa I3 Build Question - 11 years ago

I am building a Prusa I3 and am constructing my frame out of 3/4" melamine/particle board. I want it to be sturdy and 1/2" seems a little thin to be putting screws into the ends of. My question is this, has anyone used 3/4" to build their box from? If so, did you have to modify the y-corners to allow clearance for the board along the bottom plate to allow you to mount the threaded rod to the b

by unlucky1 - Reprappers

Re: Solution to curling overhangs? - 11 years ago

I know this thread is a little old now but I had teh same issues and have a prusa mendal running off of ramps 1.4 and marlin software. i had a 40mm fan with a nozzel and found that I was getting more air blowing on the heat be than the part. i printing a fan off of thingiverse that is called circular fan duct, I think. It is a ring that is mounted around the bottom part of the hotend and blows

by unlucky1 - Printing

Re: Final tuning in Slic3r - 11 years ago

I would like to note that I had issues with my surfaces not being flat and I adjusted my temp up and up and got it working but .... I found that the temp was not the issue and to high of a temp can cause you grief. My issue ended up bein that I was not getting enough pressure of the filament on the hobbed bolt. I increased the tenstion and am now printing at 185 instead of 210. This makes a mu

by unlucky1 - Printing

Re: Lines in print after retract - 11 years ago

I will tell you that I am going to just create a little test part and print it an adjust as necessary until I find the optimal settings. I will do this from now on with the different filament i get. i just printed yoda and it came out great. That was the first non functional print I have done. I have had my machine up for about a month and am just not getting it really tuned in.

by unlucky1 - General

Re: SOLVED Lines in print after retract - 11 years ago

SOLVED

by unlucky1 - General

Re: Lines in print after retract - 11 years ago

.78 extrusion multiplier. WOW, I am guessing my filiment is really out of round bad or not very dense. Thats almost 25% off from my measurement of 2.84!! Thanks again everyone, especially richgain. John

by unlucky1 - General

Re: Lines in print after retract - 11 years ago

Richgain, You are a friggen genious. I was working this completly backwards thinking i was extruding to much at the start after retract when infact I was extruding to much all the time and the areas it was trying to fill did not have room to put the filament!!! I had to set my multiplier for extrusion to .80. I am trying .78 next and will post pictures when I find the magic number but it

by unlucky1 - General

Re: Lines in print after retract - 11 years ago

Here is the test STL I have been testing with. I am going to do the thin wall test and try to calibrate with that. The issue I have always heard about that is many people say not to change the extrusion multiplyer as the filament size calculates the extrusion rate and if that is correct you should not fudge it. Anyway, here is the stl if anyone want to try it a waste a little filament. Thanks

by unlucky1 - General

Re: Lines in print after retract - 11 years ago

That is interesting. I did lower the value of the multiplyer at one point to test. I think when I got to .85 is when my parts did not stick to my glass on top of my heatbed. My logic tells me though that all the layers would be higher? I was able to actually get a concave instead of a line on top at one point and I think thats what did it but I could never get a balance. I think the streak y

by unlucky1 - General

Lines in print after retract - 11 years ago

Hi all, ok, I am finally at the end of a short rope. I have attached a picture that will pretty much speak for itself but I will explain. In the picture you will see raised lines in different location on the 40mm x 40mm x 2mm test thing i whipped up. The reason I made this test piece was that I was noticing lines in my prints after it retracts and moves to a new location and starts printi

by unlucky1 - General

Re: Suggestions on tension - 11 years ago

I have had the same idea and yes that is threaded rod 5/16". The trick to that is that the spring would need to be pretty big. However, i am using a fender washer right now with two nuts jammed and it helps. It finding the right spring that will be a little tricky. I even thought about printing one to see how strong it might be and then maybe altering the end by the nuts to have a smaller hole. M

by unlucky1 - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)

Suggestions on tension - 11 years ago

I just built a spool holder for loose spool and need some suggestion on tensioning it. It was a thingverse item 8331 and has 2 608 bearing. The goal is not to have to worry about the spool and now its too easy feeding that it can run away. Post your tensioning ideas please.

by unlucky1 - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)

Printed Spool holder and need some ideas - 11 years ago

I printed and used a mounting system that atteches it directly above my prusa with about 5 LBS of filament, a little less at the moment. Well, I went from to much tenstion to not enough becuase it uses 2 608 bearings and I need to keep it from catching and unspooling all over. Anyone have ideas on some sort of tensioning system I can create, use, .whatever... ? Here is a pic of my setup.

by unlucky1 - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)

Re: Retraction calibration issues printing with my Prusa - 11 years ago

It looks to me like you have way to much filament pushing out. 1. In pronterface/printrun/whatever raise you z axes up a little. 2. Turn on heat to extruder 3. I used a metal runler I have with mm on it and stand it up and down on top the aread where your filament first enters the extruder and make a mark with a magic marker at 100mm. 4. Extrude 5mm at a time 10 times to get 50mm extruded.

by unlucky1 - Printing