Yah thats like 2.5 amps.. thin piece of wire would work but for safety reasons you want something durableby nechaus - Reprappers
Hey guys, Thanks in advance for any responses. I am looking to get another printer, Budget $800 or around that. That is 800aud about 650 USD give or take.. I was initially looking at the Printrbot simple metal.. Can anyone give me a good reason not to buy this model? or point me to another model? I currently have an old 3dsm.. also have a home made prusai3...3dsm just needs another motherboby nechaus - General
yeah i can see that, nice job, but still try a big fan.. its worth trying quickly all these test will stick in your mind, you will soon look at prints and think, oh i can do this to fix that... it will all come natural to youby nechaus - Printing
the lego looks pretty goodby nechaus - Printing
the spin tops you printed look like they need a cooling fan (a big fan blowing over the whole printer, directed at the print plate, just needs to be a weak or set to slow speed). have you tried putting a fan on it? it can make the world of difference for that type of print.by nechaus - Printing
sounds like different filament diameter.. Those pictures look like it is far to close. just give it a go, when iv moved my bed around and to lazy to level it because i do not have self leveling.. You can adjust in slic3r the Z height offset.. give that old filament a go and keep on raising untill it looks normal... .rule out this as the problem.. about two years ago I wasted soooo much filby nechaus - Printing
honestly you need to check the temp... Because if there is the chance the temp is correct then your getting jams in the hot end.. but sounds like its off..by nechaus - Reprappers
I doubt it's this, but is it possible that the hotend is not fastened in tightly?by nechaus - Printing
Well i know with first hand experience, printing to slow will warp because the part is getting to hot. What are your settings? Have you double checked that your temp is what it sez it is? post some pictures if you can.by nechaus - Reprappers
change temps try hi or lower mess with retraction can you extrude say 100mm of filament and its consistent ? First thing i do , heat my printer up, Extrude a bunch of filament to make sure nothing is slipping or jamming and have free flow of hot molten filament. My guess if you are having these issues you will have it on other printers unless its like one of those machines that has Low to hiby nechaus - Printing
very clever thank you for sharingby nechaus - Developers
you could melt the part with a soldering iron for a quick job, probably deform some of it. but iv done it b4 and its a quick messy fixby nechaus - Reprappers
you could melt the part with a soldering iron for a quick job, probably deform some of it. but iv done it b4 and its a quick messy fixby nechaus - Reprappers
Yeah it's like a music box.... As long as your motors are not getting to hot to touch, should be okay.. You should tune your steppers so they have enough power to run but not overkill, it will slightly reduce the sound.by nechaus - Reprappers
I print from 190c to 210c.. I dont get warping on either temp... Lately I have been printing on blue painters tape, I use a small amount of olive oil, Wipe it all over the tape, then use alcohol and wipe of the access... let it dry for a few hours and give it a print... It makes my tape last ages and the print just pop off... this might help you with getting your prints off nicely...not goingby nechaus - Reprappers
I have tired both and i honestly believe they have their own pros and cons... you just need to decide what will suit your needs.. I found with bowden, nylon and any softer filaments are a bit of a pita, even @ 3mm -Retraction needed more tunning and sometimes id get a jam because of having retraction up more. It was probably my setup but i did notice alot of hysteria with the bowden setup. I onby nechaus - General
try smush your first layer onto the bed, you can use slic3r to slightly lower the Z height.. You want it just close enough to smush it onto the bed but not to close that it will not be able to extrude, will cause a jam quick smart.by nechaus - General
I normally store filament in a large container if i am not using it. but on average 1kg will last me just under a week if i am just using one printer. if i have both running, 1kg does not go farby nechaus - General
when trying the oil method, wipe it down heaps and let the paper absorb the oil... Then use some alcohol and wipe it down further to remove excess.. Then you can give it a light sand with ultra fine sand paper.. its kinda like priming the bed for a print... I am really happy how my prints just snap off... you only need to apply the oil once you start to see your parts sticking to the paper..by nechaus - General
thermal fuses....smoke alarms..by nechaus - Reprappers
you guys should try painters tape with a fine layer of oil Wipe it down with alcohol.. Wipe a fine layer of vegetable oil over the painters tape.. Wipe again with a clean cloth to remove any extra oil... Once you experiment you can get it to work well and part will pop off similar to kepton tape and have a pretty nice bottom finish... I also like using glue sticks but your print bed can get mby nechaus - General
Quoteindojogger My 3dstuffmaker Prusa is 5 months old. No heated bed, bowden type extruder, and gen6 board. I found that the design could be improved. The Gen6 board is prone to misstep if you crank the speed more than 30mm/s, but the extruder is bowden which is actually designed for high speed and have major oozing problem (being the 0.7 mm nozzle). The prusa is printing happily now after I uby nechaus - General
I would not go with a GEN 6 board, they are limited... The on board stepper drives get way hot.. The pins will carbonise hey its good if you want to stick to 40mm's but if you want to go upto 100mm+ for prolong periods.. Get ready to blast your gen6 board with aggressive air cooling This was my experience untill the thing failed.. it appears ramps setup is pretty much the same priceby nechaus - General
I have just been making my own heated beds using resistors yours does look bent, is the top glass perfectly flat still? Does it heat the whole piece of glass up?by nechaus - General
Could someone please recommend me a good delta printer? id prefer to build itby nechaus - General
I have just replaced the capacitor on the board and the stupid thing is still not running... I noticed the base of the board is stupidly hot but no light are on.. I think its dead.. time to get rampsby nechaus - General
Quotemikefiatx19 Quotenechaus I need to rebuild my printer soon... Going to use all the steppers on another machine..something with a good design... not like this evolution crap, maybe a delta If you want something simple then the delta might be a good choice. I am building one at the moment on my Smartrap. The stuffmaker has been junked and it's going to be the food for the delta. QuoteMiertby nechaus - General
QuoteLoboCNC I'm curious - many people talk about using ABS for stronger parts, but PLA is actually stronger than ABS. PLA is also stiffer and has less shrinkage (for better accuracy), so aside from the lower operating temperature, it would seem that PLA is better for most low-temp mechanical applications. ABS does have a higher impact strength (better for a phone case that gets dropped), but mby nechaus - General