Look through the gcode to see if it has any temp resetting codes around the 80% mark. My current setup has been printing for days. My only problem is filament getting stuck.by duttonw - Reprappers
You are quite correct, i live in Brisbane Australia, sadly with the 30 degree c temp we also have 60%+ humidity. The cold would be niceby duttonw - Reprappers
What is room temperature for you guys. Mine is currently 30 degrees. I have a glass bed with kapton tape over it which i clean with acetone. If the bottom layer is big enough even at room temperature it won't come off, I ussually have to pry it off.by duttonw - Reprappers
The reprap irc group got me sorted. Seems i had 1 maybe 2 bad solders and a loose positive lead, this allowed the connector block to melt/burn and overheat the large thermal fuse. oops. They suggested to just join the 4 positive wires which went through the thermal fuse directly to the positive wire of the heated bed with a mechanical crimp. I'll still be on the lookout for the spark on the cby duttonw - Reprappers
Plug in the one way deiod on the ramps board so that it can get power from the psu as well as the USB cable. Also try swapping the polo boards around say y board with the extruder board. Do you have a heated bed connected?by duttonw - Reprappers
As per this video It seems my i3 reprap ramps board has started to spark on the extruder capacitor. I've also noticed a degraded hot bed heat. It seems the ceramic shunt starts to cook and the hot bed looses all temp. Does this just needs me to resolder the cap legs or is there another problem afoot?by duttonw - Reprappers
Can you supply a photo of your setup. How tight is your filment extruder. You might be making the filment square which is making it harder to push through the 3mm peek tubing. 210 seems a bit to hot for pla. I do 180 for mine. As you have an extra heat you might need to set your fan at 100% instead of letting slicer or skin forge control it.by duttonw - Reprappers
Check your voltage to the motor. Either it has burnt your stepper out or your drivers are not giving enough juice. Also check the leads. A dry solder joint or fracture will sap power as it will act as a resister.by duttonw - General
Worst case you need to reflash the chip via the jtag or similar connector. Try a different of as see if that helps. It sucks that you are having hardware problems.by duttonw - Reprappers
putting a dob of nail polish on every grub screw really helps. i had my extruder grub screws coming loose on prints longer than 7 hours. a dob of nail polish on the top part of the thread and on side side when tight tops them vibrating loose. you can use lock tight but nail polish is a lot cheaper and could already be in your houseby duttonw - General Mendel Topics
Just found on the gen6 board (Non-Windows users) Download and install the Arduino software version 0018, not the latest Hope that helps in uploading a newer firmware. It seems to also required a custom software in the IDE.by duttonw - Reprappers
How much ram do you have and what operating system?by duttonw - General
Gears that are too big can be calibrated for in the software. It just takes more time to do the sums and testing. Most firmwares are all configurable even for the virtual bed size so that it does not kill your printer. Next step for you would be extruder calibrating. E.g. Ensuring that 1mm of filliment is fed when asked instead of 0.5 or 1.5 which would make the layers squash or not join up.by duttonw - Reprappers
Is it sprinter firmware. There should be a sprinter file that you load in the ardunio IDE, this loads all other files. Configuration.h file should be next tab over then. Now choose your ardunio board type and com port the try to compile and upload the software. If successful you will need to hit the reset button or reboot the hardware to make it connectable. Hope that helpsby duttonw - Reprappers
File spilt, you can get a read on the layer heights. You can also make it move up and home x and eject the filment so that you just net to put it in. Extrude till its clear and load th new file to continue on. Also you can search and replace all e0 in th new file and make them the e setting for the new plastic. I just had to salvage a print that was 80% done. The extruder had a grub screw come lby duttonw - Reprappers
Homing requires it to hit an end stop which will mark the 0 point on the z. I'd say your firmware has the forward/backwards the wrong way and is going up to find home instead of down. Theres and invert option in the configuration of sprinter. Hope this helps. Also best way to test is to use the printrun application and step it positive and negative and see that it moves in the right direction.by duttonw - General
Do you have a fan on it. Sounds like the temp is moving into the cold and making the plastic harder to move. Another option is that the pressure against the stepper drive is not hard enough and it slips and lastly you might not be having enough current going to the extruder stepper to move the filament when it starts to get tough to move.by duttonw - Reprappers
Seems to me that you need to calibrate the pulleys on x and y. Try and do a measure test from printrun or similar for 1cm movement. If its moving to much. Then you will have gaps between your lines. I had this problem in the z axis. When I told it to move 10mm it only moved 7mm. This squashed everything etc. hope this helpsby duttonw - Reprappers