Thank for both of your comments. I think I'll just cancel this whole thing. I'm not enough informed about opensourcing and what it involves.by woodencase01 - General
I didn't know. How should it be called then? Is the CC-BY-NC license a bad reputated license in the reprap community?by woodencase01 - General
I might have found a solution: Updated to the latest Marlin Firmware Changed the baudrate to the suggested 250 000. Printed successfully during 5 hours.by woodencase01 - General
Quotegyronictonic Your RAMPS board might be overheating. Place a fan and see if that makes a difference. I've already have a fan and I use big heatsink with CPU thermal paste. I used to have these overheating on the z axis before. Quoteregpye I think you are running visualization in Repetier host? On big prints this will slow down the printing a very lot, especially towards the end of the print.by woodencase01 - General
Hi, I've started this print today: I'm running a MixG1, RAMPS electronics Connected by USB to my computer Slic3R 1RC2 Repetier Host Marlin Firmware In this picture, we can see a difference in the print quality. This happened when the printer slowed down. After a while, the printer completely stopped. I could only see the blinking red led on the RAMPS. I tried to pause and restart the printby woodencase01 - General
I think you might have problems with this size. It may be too small and you won't be able to push the filament.by woodencase01 - Reprappers
Economic Metal HotEnd I've been working on this project for over a year. This is the best working model up to now. It is quite easy to assemble and prints very well! It is not an «All-Metal» hotend. There is a PTFE liner inside. Max temperature is 245°C. Assembly instruction and software configuration will be provided. Available nozzle size: 0.4mm0.5mm0.6mm0.8mm Available filament size: 1.by woodencase01 - For Sale
QuoteDirty Steve looks like you are getting heat creeping up your thermal barrier, causing longer prints to fail, you may need a fan blowing across your barrier +1 Here, I had the exact same problem, I could't print longer than an hour or so. Cool this hotend as much as you can! Printing a shroud will greatly improve from a simple fan blowing at it.by woodencase01 - General
Looks like a great solution! I often need pliers to get the prints off, and I scratched my tape a few times. How durable is this film?by woodencase01 - General
I've been following this HotEnd since a while as I am also working on a similar more economic project. This hotend looks great IMHO. The idea about the one SS part design is brilliant. The team is professional yet funny. It must be very costly to manufacture, but the price isn't overkill. It is one more hotend in the high-end market. I laughed when they showed their tests (flexion and compressby woodencase01 - General
You might want to check on your firmware. Maybe E1 is used for a second hotend. You may have to try E2.by woodencase01 - General
Usually, I just heat the hot end, untighten the screw from the extruder, slowly pull out the filament, cut the larger diameter portion, put everything back as it was and start the new print. Done in less than a minute.by woodencase01 - Reprappers
You should see with your vendor assembly manual or contact him directly. It is pretty hard for us to answer without pics.by woodencase01 - General
Great job! Looking forward to see these pictures Have you got your jhead for the official store or from a different website?by woodencase01 - Reprappers
Excellent idea. It could be great to have this kind of tool when calibrating a printer. I wish I could be able to program, there is so much improvement that can be done!by woodencase01 - General
Your questions are very brief, there is a little bit of missing informations. Prusa i2, i3? Computer? Do you mean electronic board? Because any computer can drive a 3d printer. The others questions can be answered with a little bit of reading in the forums and reprap wiki. Many very intuitive and free CAD softwares are available: FreeCAD, Sketchup, etc.by woodencase01 - General
Also, make sure there isn't too much filament pushed. Make sure you have calibrated your extruder. Measure your filament, print a thin wall cube and measure the thickness.by woodencase01 - General
Maybe you can try to lower the acceleration values on your firmware. If your carriage has too much mass, it could lead to missed steps. Also, try with slower speed. Try measuring your 12V on your board when the printer is running.by woodencase01 - General
If you have a lathe, do what you've said. It should work. Drill through all the stainless tube. Put a long PTFE tube inside. Your maximum temperature is now 235°C, but you'll be able to print Also, lathe the outer part of the threads, where we can see the outer threads from the outside at the minimum wall thickness you can achieve. Less section area -> less heat flux going up your hotend -&gby woodencase01 - Reprappers
All that you've written before can be achieved. It may not all work directly when you buy it from your supplier, but after all, you'll have your own 3D printer and it is pretty easy to improve it. I suggest you try a well know printer and improve it to reach your goals. I personally have a MixG1 printer which isn't a really great printer. I bought it because it was affordable. I've learned a lotby woodencase01 - General
Amazing! Excellent job!! I've seen coloring done this way a few times and I think this is the way to go. It could be interesting to work on a system like traditional printers with ink.by woodencase01 - General
Good work! If you have the resources, try to do a steady state thermal analysis on your hot end. I'm afraid that the mount section will be too hot as it is on the lower part of the heatsink. You don't want to melt your carriage!by woodencase01 - Mechanics
Wow! Great product! This one looks very professional, excellent work.by woodencase01 - Crowdfunding Projects Announcements
As far as I know, HardCoating is usually a very very thin layer. It is used to protect polished surfaces against scratch and dents. This process is often used in plastic injection molding. The printed pastic is too soft and the hardcoat would chip with a very small deformation generated by filament pressure. Also the costs are very high for this process. A standard 4$ driver gear is more economiby woodencase01 - General
I've had similar problems and it looks like your filament is very hard to push inside the hotend. I strongly suggest you get a new hotend. JHead e3Dby woodencase01 - Reprappers
Amazing. A lot of us were waiting for this day to come!! Thanks for sharing.by woodencase01 - General
QuoteShadowRam Canadian here, Places I have used, www.fastenal.com for metric hardware (Screws/Nuts/Taps) www.misumi.com for rods and other linear motion hardware www.newark.com for electronic supply +1 for newark.ca This website is amazing! There have quite nice hardware too. I've bought M6 Clinch nuts there, couldn't find it anywhere else.by woodencase01 - General
I must say, hotends are very tricky part. I consider it one of the toughest mechanical part of a 3D printer. You jamming may occurs because of your hotend inside surface roughness is bad. Stainless steel is very hard to drill and the plastic will stick to it. I suggest you drill a larger hole (4mm) and you put a PTFE liner like most hotends currently uses (2mm id). This will greatly help your cusby woodencase01 - Reprappers