? - 9 years agoQuoteo_lampe The Vref of your old drivers might not work for the new ones. Check if the new ones have the same shunt resistors. They can vary between 0.200 and 0.05 ohms ( reads R200, R100 or R050 ) You're right. There are two R100 resistors next to the S1X and S2X labels on the board. That said, I tried a wide range of Vref values and still have the issue of noise :\.by Zangetsu57 - Controllers
? - 9 years agoHey folks, One of my stepper motor drivers died so I bought a new set. I decided to replace them all at once. After adjusting the pots and ensuring that Vref was 0.4V or lower, I started printing a test cube. Unfortunately, the motors are now extremely loud for the X and Y axis! I can even see the belts vibrating. I swapped back the X and Y drivers back to the old a4988 drivers and the loudby Zangetsu57 - Controllers
Hey guys, I'm revisiting this again. The main motivation is my layers don't sit perfectly on top of each other; they tend of be offset more than I'd like (for example, when printing a simple box). I've seen some really nice prints and so I know it is possible. The thought is that increasing the rigidity of all of the smooth rods by upgrading from 8mm to 10mm rods with LM10UU bearings would incby Zangetsu57 - General
Just double checking - you are measuring the resistance of the bed with the multimeter probes, without it attached to anything, and from the trace solder points, right? If you apply ample pressure with the probes to ensure good contact, there should be no fluctuation. If there is, it might mean intermittent contact or a short somewhere, especially since 0.6 ohms is very low for this bed.by Zangetsu57 - Reprappers
Fortunately, it appears that the problem was solved with a different USB cable .by Zangetsu57 - General
Hey folks, Ever since I've built my MendelMax, plugging/unplugging 120V tools interferes with the communication between my laptop and the printer (which is over US. I've tried reducing the communication rate from 250 kbaud to 102.5 kbaud, but that didn't resolve the issue. The USB cable is quite long and I'm not sure how good the shielding is. Could a lack of shielding of the USB cable be anby Zangetsu57 - General
Hey folks, I'm not sure if this is the right sub-forum, but I'm having some issues with PLA filament breaking towards the end of the reel. The filament is quite rigid and I think the stress of keeping it straight in the extruder are causing it to snap. It mostly happens when the printer is sitting idle for a period of time, and not during prints, but I'd imagine it could occur during a long prby Zangetsu57 - General Mendel Topics
Hey Folks, I've had a strange problem with my MendelMax for some time now. It won't finish printing the last corner of the top layer solid infill - see the attached picture . This doesn't happen for the inner layers, and the missing infill it happens for different objects. I've taken a look at the top layer's Slic3r output in Repetier Host, and it looks fine as well. I've just updated to theby Zangetsu57 - General Mendel Topics
Hey Folks, My standard size MendelMax currently uses 8mm steel rods. Since the rods were included in a kit, I'm not sure if they are hardened, but they are not chromed. I've noticed that there is a significant amount of flexing when pressing lightly on the y-axis table, and the x-axis extruder assembly twists fairly easily. To remedy this, I'd like to get reasonable quality 10mm rods to hopefby Zangetsu57 - General
Hello everyone, I have a J-head Mk V-B, mounted to my Greg's Wade Extruder Reloaded using an aluminum mounting plate from hotends.com (https://www.hotends.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=81). Overall the setup works great, but I've noticed that there is some "front-back" wobble in the head after it heats up. This results in some deformations in the print when the head changeby Zangetsu57 - General Mendel Topics
jdevmiller Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I have a 400W server PSU and the RAMBo has a 15 > amp fuse on the heatbed. Not sure what exactly the > heatbed can pull but I used a ohms law calculator > and apparently it's drawing about 7.5 amps right > now. The 400W PSU you have probably provides a number of voltages, including +3.3V, +5V, and +12V. Sby Zangetsu57 - Reprappers
I'm actually having the same issue; have been since I've built my MendelMax 1.5. It happens with ABS and PLA. Since it takes less pressure to push ABS through, I'm hoping it is just a firmware setting issue. I'll try keeping modyfing the Emax mm/s to acceleration ratio to match my XY ratio, as suggested above. The ratio is currently not even close. EDIT: Unfortunately it didn't work. I haveby Zangetsu57 - General
I can second insulation. Pick up some cork tiles from your local hardware store. Place some aluminum foil over the top (that meets with your heatbed). I bonded mine to cork using Loctite contact adhesive in a spray can. Cut a second piece and put it over your heated bed when warming up. My heated bed has even higher a resistance than yours and I'm now able to hit 100C in 12.5 minutes in a 25by Zangetsu57 - Reprappers
royco Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > @Zangetsu - To measure the resistance of the beds, > you have to account the resistance of the leads > since the resistance you are measuring is pretty > low for a regular voltmeter. Short your leads and > record the resistance, then subtract it to the > reading you are getting from the bed. Thats your > aby Zangetsu57 - Reprappers
NewPerfection Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Zangetsu57 Wrote: > -------------------------------------------------- > ----- > > The problem is I bought it secondhand about 6 > > months ago (long story). Changes are I > wouldn't > > get a replacement :\. > > Ah, that sucks. The heated bed really should have > a resistanceby Zangetsu57 - Reprappers
NewPerfection Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > At 1.8 Ohms and 12V, that's only 80W going into > your heated bed. It's no surprise you can't get > to 110C with that. I would contact the supplier > you bought it from and see if you can get a > replacement. No matter how much insulation you > add you'll have difficulty getting above 100C. The prby Zangetsu57 - Reprappers
Hey folks, I'm having some trouble getting my mk2a heated bed to reach 110C (or even 95C, for that matter). The resistance across the PCB terminals (no wire) is 1.7 to 1.8 ohms. The multimeter leads measure zero ohms resistance so I'm guessing my multimeter calibrates them out (or they are very low loss). This resistance seems a bit high. Including the wires, I measure 1.8 ohms, so at leastby Zangetsu57 - Reprappers
Hello Folks, I'd like to ask some advice on cooling PLA while printing, specifically which fans to get and what mount(s) I should use. I'm currently using this mount with a 40mm fan (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:63123), but I'm not happy with it for the following reasons: 1. It results in uneven cooling (more in the front than the back). Note that I've cut the slits back around 1cm, butby Zangetsu57 - General Mendel Topics
Thanks for the reply, I'll try to make the appropriate changes in firmware.by Zangetsu57 - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Hello ACityofOne, did you ever resolve this issue? I have a similar one in which the y-axis prints are flipped (mirrored) compared to the picture on the 3D preview. I'm using Repetier Host, but the same issue exists with Pronterface. I currently have my printer set up such that when the positive y-axis button is clicked, the bed moves away, and when negative is clicked, the bed moves towards thby Zangetsu57 - Firmware - mainstream and related support
It turns out that the hotend does have a bit of wiggle once heated. Any ideas to keep it secured in the mount? On an unrelated note, I've noted that in Repetier Host (and PronterFace for that matter), the y-axis prints are flipped (mirrored) compared to the picture on the 3D preview. I currently have my printer set up such that when the positive y-axis button is clicked, the bed moves away, anby Zangetsu57 - General Mendel Topics
I have the same issue on my MendelMax, even after calibrating my extruder with 100mm of 3mm PLA filament. Did you happen to find a solution?by Zangetsu57 - Mendel90
I'm having the same exact issue. My z-axis endstop is set to where a folded sheet of 24 lb paper slides under the nozzle with a slight rough feeling. First layer height is 100%, 0.3mm layers. I clean the glass with 90% isopropyl alcohol, run the bed at 85C for the first layer, and extrude PLA at 195C for the first layer. Extra plastic stuck to the nozzle is scraped away, cleaned with isopropyby Zangetsu57 - Plastic Extruder Working Group
I've decided to move to PLA for the time being, at least to get started. I purchased the aluminum j-head mount from hotends.com. The fit is pretty secure but I'm afraid that the hotend will move in the aluminum mount once heated up. Should I somehow secure it further to the aluminum mount (e.g. A little bit of CA glue)? Thanks!by Zangetsu57 - General Mendel Topics
I'm having trouble printing with ABS due to the high temperatures required, so I'd like to try PLA since it is more forgiving, at least until I get my machine calibrated. This seems like a good deal for 1kg of 3mm PLA. Has anyone used them? Thanks!by Zangetsu57 - General Mendel Topics
Spk64 Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > 1. Sounds like it might not be hot enough. What > temp are you running? > 2. A PLA extruder will be a problem printing ABS > without some active cooling to prevent it from > getting soft. > 3. Do you have the underside insulated at all? I > used a single piece of cardboard wrapped in > aluminum foil tby Zangetsu57 - General Mendel Topics
I'm getting closer to my first print, but have run into a few more issues: 1. I've been able to print the first layer on my heated bed, but all subsequent layers don't stack up. The hotend extrudes plastic but it doesn't seem to stick to the right layer; it appears too "stringy". Does this mean the temperature is not hot enough? I'm using 3mm ABS filament from . Note that when I manually extby Zangetsu57 - General Mendel Topics
Alright, I managed to calibrate the extruder. Thanks everyone! Question: should I set the endstops physically where I want the home position to be? The range of linear motion along the x and y axes extends past the print bed by a bit on each side. Ultimately I want to restrict the print area to the bed, keeping the head a few mm away from the binder clips keeping the glass attached to the MK2by Zangetsu57 - General Mendel Topics
Thanks Spk. I thought so, but wanted to be certain. What is a good speed to set the extruder to when calibrating? I intially used 300mm/min but the length of filament fed into the extruder was inconsistent (perhaps due to inability to heat up filament fast enough or skipping on the hobbed bolt), so I backed it down to 100mm/min.by Zangetsu57 - General Mendel Topics
If I command the extruder to extrude 10mm, should it feed 10mm of filament into the hotend, or extrude 10mm out of the nozzle?by Zangetsu57 - General Mendel Topics