so you think the ramps board and the heatbed are ok? providing i replace the wiring with some high quality wire, perhaps some 14awg silicon wire, i believe they can handle upto 600v, 32amp and 200 degrees C. Obviously the idea of my electronics burning and possbily setting fire to itself are extremely alarming, im curious about the solid-state relay you mentioned, does that make running a heatbedby matrix4721 - Reprappers
find some more damage, one of the connectors for the heatbed has melted to the point it appears to have actually melted the solder on that pin (ive attached acouple of pics to show the damage), sadly as the damage is already present im now unsure whether or not it was the power supply or the ramps or the heatbed, ive checked the wiring on the heatbed and besides the melted part where it connectsby matrix4721 - Reprappers
Okay, so i disconnected the heatbed wires from the ramps and one was very burnt (see attached pic), not sure whats caused it thoby matrix4721 - Reprappers
Hello cnc, i dont have a fan attached, havent had a fan at all and have had no issues, i did try to fit a fan however i couldnt find one that would fit my ramps board as i also have the gadgets3d lcd ramp attached onto and all the wires would obstruct the airflow. I will have to remove the heatbed to check for breaks in the wiring, if there were a break wouldnt it just not heat up at all?by matrix4721 - Reprappers
Hey all, Ive been running my prusa i3 for afew months now without much issue, that was until today, i set a print going which required the bed to heat upto 115 degrees C (which this machine has done many many times before), the bed heated to about 60 degrees and stopped heating, i noticed the light on the bed was no longer on and the temperature was starting to drop, after afew failed restby matrix4721 - Reprappers
just had a thought, if i set the bed center in the firmware to be 0 0 instead of front left and then enter the values for the measurements from the center to the endstop and enter the figures into marlin (as shown below) it might work, any reason why this shouldnt work? #define X_MAX_POS 104 #define X_MIN_POS -100 #define Y_MAX_POS 100 #define Y_MIN_POS -132 #define Z_MAX_POS 200 #define Z_MIN_POby matrix4721 - Reprappers
thats how i did it aswell when using repetier host but there doesnt seem to be an option for doing that in curaby matrix4721 - Reprappers
I've had some issues with the Y axis on my i3, things i tried were increasing the current (best to check with a multimeter), lowered the acceleration settings in the firmware and tightened the pulley on the motor shaft, i also pointed a fan at the stepper drivers by chance it was those that were over heating. Sadly in my case none of this worked as i had a faulty stepper driver. Ive seen people oby matrix4721 - Reprappers
Hi, i apologize if this is a silly question but ive spent ages searching for the answer on the internet and have come up empty, basiclly i have an i3 with marlin firmware with a 200mm x 200mm print size, but to get to the center of the print bed i have to jog it 132mm on the Y axis and 104mm on the X axis, is there somewhere in the firmware to enter this value? im currently using repetier host anby matrix4721 - Reprappers
i think it could be interference from the motors, so ive ordered some ferrite and will try that and post resultsby matrix4721 - Reprappers
Hey peeps So after falling in love with the auto bed leveling feature shown by the legendary 'Zennmaster' i decided it was a must have for my setup, so i watched all the videos, ordered all the parts and hooked it all up. I cautiously connected the power (after previously connecting the pins backwards) and hurray, everything seems to be moving as it should, However, before i can enjoy the beby matrix4721 - Reprappers
Hi, thanks for your reply, i like the look of the makerbot upgrade versions however as the are designed to run on the makerbot im unsure how i would adapt it to fit on the vertical x-axis of my i3, i was also checking out this one it looks good however im worried that all the weight overhanging at the front may cause issuesby matrix4721 - Reprappers
Hi everyone Sorry if this question has already been asked but i have a prusa i3 with a j-head hotend using 1.75mm abs. Im currently using a bowden setup for the extruder but im having some print issues which i believe is caused, at least in part to the bowden setup, so im wanting to try a new extruder. Since im using 1.75mm filament i dont think i need a geared extruder so im wanting to useby matrix4721 - Reprappers
So I should set the default extrusion width to 0.35mm to match the nozzle? How do I adjust the extrusion multiplier? Is there a set method for it? Thanks in advanceby matrix4721 - Reprappers
Hi, thank you for your reply I would rather try to fix the issue rather than adding extra layers because i think the top layer will still look abit rough even with extra layers, i will double check the extruder calibration but last time i checked it when i told it to run 100mm of filament it ran 100.7mm so i think its pretty closeby matrix4721 - Reprappers
Hi everyone I'm having issues with the top layers of my print not being solid, i have tried to sort it myself by measuring the filament and have solid infill (even though there are still gaps) but no matter what i change i cant seem to get the top layers to be solid as you can see from the picture Any thoughts on what i can try would be great I'm running a prusa i3 with 1.75mm ABS printing atby matrix4721 - Reprappers
Hi, thanks for the replies, i went into slic3r settings in Repetier-Host and and change the print center for X = 103 and Y = 139 and saved the settings, i then tried to print an object in the center of the heatbed and it printed in the front middle of the heatbed, i was abit puzzled by this as it should have printed in the middle, its as if the bed isnt moving far enough forward, so i altered theby matrix4721 - Reprappers
i think im being abit dense, when i place the object in the center of slicer and set it off printing its off center on the heatbed, i homed the X / Y axis and then manually moved it into dead center of the bed using repetier host and to get it in the center i have to move X = 103mm and Y 139mm, i figure that value has to be entered somewhere, perhaps in the firmware?by matrix4721 - Reprappers
Hi Im having trouble getting the print central on the heatbed on my i3, the X axis isnt that far out but the Y axis is to far back, im guessing it has something to do with the fact that the Y endstop is right at the back, but i cant really change that as the endstop holder is built into the motor mount. Im sure im probably missing something really simply but if someone could point me in the rigby matrix4721 - Reprappers
Update: I replaced the arduino mega and used it with my spare ramps and its all okay now, not surprising really since ive replaced the main electronics lol and theres no voltage feedback overloading my laptop. thanks everyone for you helpby matrix4721 - Reprappers
Thanks for the reply uncle_bob, ive ordered another mega since the one i have isnt seen by the computer anymore and when it arrives i will use it with my spare ramps, i am abit worried that it will blow the 5v regulator again, is there anyway i can help prevent this?by matrix4721 - Reprappers
quick question, how do i know if the ramps is working? i know theres power going into it, but how do i know if the board itself works? since the arduino's regulator has blown, and it gets its power from the ramps, then if the ramps isnt getting the power to the whole board then it will never work, is there some part of the ramps i can test with a multimeter to ensure its working? the reason why iby matrix4721 - Reprappers
ah i didnt realise that, so the only way the arduino can get power is via the ramps with the diode removed? when i connect power to the ramps with the arduino connected only, theres no lights on the ramps at all, ive heard some horror stories about cheap mega's,ive seen the freaduino mega, supposed to be better than standard ones cos it can handle more amps through 5v regulatorby matrix4721 - Reprappers
Well having removed all the electronics from the printer and plugging the mega into the computer on its own and the computer saying that the usb device is not recognised it seems that somehow the arduino has poppedby matrix4721 - Reprappers
ow and ive noticed that when i connected power to the ramps a blue LED lights up, however, now it comes on blue for a second then goes off and a red LED comes on, not sure if its important but thought id mention itby matrix4721 - Reprappers
Thanks for your replies I measured the usb without the computer connected and there was 0.61v being produced, wouldnt have thought that would have been enough to knock the laptop out but obviously it was. This does seem to point to faulty arduino, really confusing that it was working fine and suddenly died, im concerned that if i buy another arduino then the ramps might blow the mega's regulatoby matrix4721 - Reprappers
Hey, So ive got a massive problem with my printer, it was working fine for ages, i ran a 7 hour print which it finished fine, i switched the printer off and went to work, when i returned from work i connected the mega to my laptop, the electronics lit up as they should as did the LCD, however, when i switched on the main power (12v 30amp psu) the laptop cut out and went off and the printer LCDby matrix4721 - Reprappers
Hey everyone, So ive finished my i3 build and successfully printed the test cube, an owl and a heart shaped box with lid, all of these came out looking pretty good, then i went to print a small endstop adjuster and...disaster. As you can see from the pictures, it prints the bottom section totally fine, then when it starts to do the top section with the hole it all goes wrong. when watchingby matrix4721 - Reprappers
UPDATE: So after checking heating times, resistance, voltage etc and not really getting anywhere i decided to remove the heatbed from the printer and wanted to test it when it was completely insulated. Now i didnt have anything to insulate it with so i got 2 kitchen towels and folded them in half to give 4 layers of towel and ran the heatbed upto 120 degrees C as i did before, here are the resulby matrix4721 - Reprappers
Hi uncle_bob Thanks for your suggestions, heres what i have found i ran the heatbed to 120 degrees C and it took: 18 minutes to reach 115 degrees C 24 minutes to reach 120 degrees C I checked the temp with my multimeter and the reading was within 3 degrees of what the printer was reporting so thats pretty close I hooked the heatbed directly to the power supply and ran it again and it gave: 1by matrix4721 - Reprappers