Show all posts by user
People building or using RepRaps.
Re: Melted X carriage? - 13 years ago
Maxx Mayhem Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > You are running with heat sufficient to freely > flow abs, near abs. Using a fan pointed at the > cool end of your hotend, as well as the carriage > will help to protect both from excess heat. You do > not necessarily need to have this fan blowing on > the work. OK, thanks: I must have misunderstood thby rick55 - Reprappers
Melted X carriage? - 13 years ago
I'm using a Durbie Prusa Mendel, and I kept having to tighten the extruder on the carriage. I finally noticed that the carriage itself was distorted, as shown here. I don't know if it's because of the repeated tightening, or if it's from heat. I've seen other people say they don't run the extruder fan for ABS, so I haven't been running it. Should I run it to help protect the carriage? Thanksby rick55 - Reprappers
Re: Y axis drift - 13 years ago
I should have said to start that I'm using a gen6 board, which says the current is 0.57 times the reference voltage. That voltage is 1.2, so the current should be 0.684. I'll try turning it down a bit more, see if the carriage still holds with the motor active.by rick55 - Reprappers
Y axis drift - 13 years ago
I'm having problems with the Y axis, and it comes and goes. This image shows one good and one bad. The bad one is off more than 2mm in a 10mm Z height. At the top, the bed is shifted to the plus Y direction. The gear driving the belt is press-fit, so I drew a mark on the shaft and gear, and it hasn't shifted. I also drew a mark on the gear and the belt at Y-home, and they're still aligned, sby rick55 - Reprappers
Re: First Print, what can I improve? - 13 years ago
isonoob Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > > > really? My HB also measures around 6Ω, I'm > > using > > > RAMPS 1.4 with the recommended Mosfet and an > > ATX > > > PSU providing 12V. My heatbed reaches 105C in > > > about 2-3 minutes, 10 mins is a ridiculously > > long > > > time to wait in my opinion &by rick55 - Reprappers
Re: First Print, what can I improve? - 13 years ago
isonoob Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > really? My HB also measures around 6Ω, I'm using > RAMPS 1.4 with the recommended Mosfet and an ATX > PSU providing 12V. My heatbed reaches 105C in > about 2-3 minutes, 10 mins is a ridiculously long > time to wait in my opinion Interesting... Do you have insulation under the bed? I put a piece of cardboardby rick55 - Reprappers
Re: First Print, what can I improve? - 13 years ago
tuficneme Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > > My heatbed went up to 40c, but it took 30 minutes > to get their. What could be wrong? I had the same problem with my Durbie Prusa. The resistance of the heated bed I received is about 6 ohms, which means that with a 12V supply, it's only being heated with 24W. I'm now using a separate 24V transformer to poby rick55 - Reprappers
Re: AC for PCB print bed - 13 years ago
Re: AC switching delay. At least with the Marlin firmware I'm using (v1, Durbie branch), the bed isn't PWM'ed or PID'ed. The bed is checked on a 2-second interval, and turned on or off, as needed. So the zero-cross SSR looks reasonable. For someone who wants something cheaper, a triac should work with this firmware. NOTE: if you're using two switch-mode power supplies without isolation transby rick55 - Developers
Re: AC for PCB print bed - 13 years ago
VDX Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > > "AC-switching' is done with a thyristor - this > device switches on when the input voltage changes > from negative to positive and blocks when from > positiove to negative ... so when activating with > +5V it would drive the current, but for blocking > you'll need a negative input voltage and then > agby rick55 - Developers
Re: AC for PCB print bed - 13 years ago
jbernardis Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > VDX Wrote: > -------------------------------------------------- > ----- > > I am thinking of doing something similar but am > confused as to the specs for the SSR that I need. > DO you have the specs, or perhaps a manufacturer > or source, for the SSR you are using. What I > don't understandby rick55 - Developers
Re: AC for PCB print bed - 13 years ago
VDX Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Hi Rick, > > I'm heating my bed with 230VAC - but with a SSR, > that is switched with the 12V-heatbed-MOSFET of > the RAMPS at maybe 10mA Thanks, Viktor: if you're doing it at 230V, then I should be able to do it at 24V without any problems. Rickby rick55 - Developers
Re: remote driven extruder, not a bowden - 13 years ago
What about using a belt drive to a gear that drives the extruder? You'd need idlers to wrap the belt around the gear, and the firmware would have to make the extruder motor motion be a delta from the X drive. If the extruder moves N teeth more or less, that's N teeth worth of movement transmitted to the extruder.by rick55 - Developers
AC for PCB print bed - 13 years ago
I have a PCB print bed from Romscraj, and it appears well made, but it heats very slowly. From about 20C ambient to 60C, it takes an hour. It has 12V at the board, but when I check resistance, it shows 6 ohm. So 12V is only generating 24W. No wonder it heats slowly. I have a 24V transformer, which would give 96W. Not ideal, but a lot better. I was just going to do it, but then I consideredby rick55 - Developers
Re: Failing tower calibration - 13 years ago
mnturner Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Are you using RAMPS? If so the middle of the three > mosfet outputs, where your extruder heater and > heated bed are connected, can be used to control a > hot end fan with PWM, so no variable voltage > required. I think the connection is called D9 from > memory I'm using gen 6, specifically gen6.d, accorby rick55 - Reprappers
Re: Failing tower calibration - 13 years ago
A fan worked well, after a little experimentation. First try, I cooled the extruder right down and stopped it. But then I figured out to move it away, and get it to where the extruder temp stayed stable, and got a very nice tower. I'll have to set one up with a variable voltage for better control. Thanks very much for the help!! Regards; Rickby rick55 - Reprappers
Re: Failing tower calibration - 13 years ago
Andrew Smith Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Looks like the layers are not cooling in time for > the next layer. The slicer can attempt to fix this > by printing more slowly, but you really need a > part cooling fan to print small details in PLA. I have another small fan, like for the extruder. I'll hook it up to some power and hold by hand, and seeby rick55 - Reprappers
Re: Failing tower calibration - 13 years ago
alj_rprp Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > perhaps a bit temp, but also overextrusion. you > need to calibrate etruder steps lower. Would it have printed the previous calibrations correctly if the steps were wrong? The thin wall was pretty good, and the 20mm cube was great. Also, is the extruder steps something settable in the slic3r settings, or do I chanby rick55 - Reprappers
Re: Failing tower calibration - 13 years ago
This image here shows the towsers at two temperature settings. I think you can see the behavior. Thanks; Rickby rick55 - Reprappers
Failing tower calibration - 13 years ago
I'm commissioning a Durbie Prusa Mendel, using the calibration procedure in Calibration. The thin wall is okay, and the block is very clean. It had one wavy edge, but once I tightened the Y belt a little, it came out as I expected. But the 50mm tower won't print. I'm using 3mm PLA, and I started at default filament temperatures (first layer/successive layers) 190/180, and it printed a coupleby rick55 - Reprappers