Ok digital dentist, my bad, I shouldn't use the word orthogonal, My axes are orthogonal I checked that and it is fine. @DjDemonD and @Micahel Brock do you check the values? I gonna dig in the code also, from reprap firmware check how the height corrections is done and look how it could be done in marlinby victorjung - General
I am sorry, I have to disagree Cause I am the designer and builder of my machine It's sturdy, and precise, I am sure that the bed doesn't move between prints, but is always, not perfectly orthogonal to other axis. But I I know this offset, I could correct it without probing every time.by victorjung - General
Hello all, I am using auto bed levelling on marlin for while now and i am really happy with it, except that it's take close to a minute (9 points). So I thought it would be great if you can run it frome time to time, note some values, and on every print correct Z axis according to those values without re-sensing any time. I am using marlin and didn't found anything to do that.... Anybody knows hby victorjung - General
Are you sure you set the x and y offset correctly? paying attention about the sign?by victorjung - General
Hi all, I tried to set the autobed levelling features on my 3d printer under marlin, with a servo and a probe attached to it. I have some hard time getting it to work I have several issues: 1 - Probing done well, but Z axis is not adjusted when x or y moves ats it should. I changed G90 for G91 in my start gcode in cura, then Z is adjusted during the print but pronterface can't read the gcode filby victorjung - General
When I have high current and not sure that traces are thick enough I put solder everywhere on the track.by victorjung - General
Hello guys, I have been using marlin on ramps 1.4 for years ans i am entirely satisfied, But I got some orthogonality problems on a new printer, and I discovers the M556 G-code to compensate orthogonality issues. As this command is not supported in Marlin, I want to give Repetier a try. As I have no Heated bed, I configured my ramps 1.4 as motherboard 35 in marlin, which allows me to have a fanby victorjung - General
Hi all of you I am experiencing a new problem that i never had before. When printing it suddently requires alot of power to push the filament, and almost nothing exit from the nozzle, and few seconds after, it will restart extruding well, but in the mean time I guess the pressure increased in the hotend leading to too much plastic extruded. My extruder is really powerfull, meaning that if it'sby victorjung - Printing
That's even more perfect! thank you so much salsabettis!by victorjung - General
HAve you checked that you z endstop doesnt send's parasites signals? Check that it works perfectly too with M119 commandby victorjung - General
Hi when turning one by hand, the other should follow if you turn it quick enough. You should double check you wiring especially that the colors of each lead is plugged at the right place.by victorjung - General
mother board 35 is extruder plus 2 fans, but the extruder is on pin 8, and 9 & 10 are for fans.by victorjung - General
Ok finally it was, the stepstick, i managed to have more torque. The thing is i thought it was skipping step but it wasn,t i accidentaly put a gt2 pulley with my t2.5 belt this is why i was having troublesby victorjung - General
Hi thanks for the reply, as It 's newly wired and pretty nicely done, I dont really want to change wires, but the axis with troubles is X, so I plugged the motor X in the Y Slot and I got some torque, so it should be proper to the x part...by victorjung - General
Hi, guys, I just finished to built and wired my new 3d printer, it's exactly the same as my previous one which I am really happy with. I have a lack of torque in one of the stepper, they are all the same 42byghw609 motors, they use all the same microstepping (1/16) But one of them has a poor torque despite whatever the potentiometer position is on the stepstick. I am using ramps 1.4 with marlin iby victorjung - General
Yeah, but i would like to shutdown the hot end fan at the end of the print...even if the 12 is still on.I tried M42 which seems a nice option for me, but it doesnt do anything, the pin 10 i am trying to control stay at zero withs M42 P10 S255 Any ideas why? thanks for your help anywayby victorjung - General
Hi, reprapers, I Have 2 fans one for cooling down the hotend, and one to cool down the print whent printing overhang. I configured marlin to set my ramps 1.4 as motherboard 35 which should allowed to control 2 fans. One is plugged in d10, the other is plugged in d9, but when using M106 S255 command only the one plugged in d09 starts... I guess there is a specific command for the one in d10 but wby victorjung - General
I, unchecked combing in expert mode setting, and now it retracts also inside the print. Of course you have to allow retraction in first place.by victorjung - Printing
Hi guys.I tried to set retractation on cura for my printer. I think the settings are OK now except it doesn't retract every where. Only for very small distance. The problem is that the leaking filament on long distance ~50mm cause a lack of plastic where you need to have it after the leak... I am even wondering if it retracts only for distance below the settings instead of retract for bigger distby victorjung - Printing
Hi, I am neither the biggest maker or experienced Guy here, but you will find my contact, some more info about me and my projects on my website: www.victorjung.net Do not hesitate to contact me. Ha det braby victorjung - General
the replikeo is almost the same than the other prusa chinese kitby victorjung - General
Hey, Right forget makibox, printerbot is a nice alternative, otherwise you can go for a full kit from china: like: or: Have fun with your printer!by victorjung - General
you could also try to swich your heated bed off. even after the first layers if you need it to stick at the begining.by victorjung - Printing
if you mis-connect the motor, they will just not work but it wont hurts anything. you have that: but the best way is to check with a multimeter to check wich wires is connected to what.by victorjung - Reprappers
The downsides are if you want it to be thick enough so it doesnt bend, it makes it a bit heavy. Also, I had some wood that came on my part, making some holeby victorjung - General
those metal bars are called "aluminium profile" in switzerland we called the "item profile" cause "item" is a famous brand of that aluminium profile here. It's used a lot in automation industry. I don't know any usa reseller, but i am sure you will find them easy in the us. Also I am building another 3d printer wich use alu profile, it's looking great for nowby victorjung - General
Wow! awesome! What's the printing time for the yoda?by victorjung - Reprappers
just some steel wire....by victorjung - Safety & Best Practices
Yep I use the same they are fine.by victorjung - General