Did you mean "printbed"? If so, no. The bed is stationary.by cope413 - Reprappers
It's both a physical and digital process. You'll need to manually adjust your endstops and digitally adjust the printer radius, carriage offset, arm length, and tower rotation. It's a process, but once you understand how it all works, it's pretty straightforwardby cope413 - Reprappers
Why make it harder (and messier) than it needs to be? Screw-in thermistor. Problem solved Screw-in Thermistorby cope413 - General
Seriously guys, let it rest. If he wants to think he has the best hotend on the market, let him. What's the point of being snarky and arguing? Steve, you've got great prints, and you know what you're doing, so why waste your time on this? To anyone else who may not know better, spend 10 minutes looking at prints and other hot ends and you'll quickly realized that there is nothing special to seby cope413 - General
You've made some sweeping generalities based on limited experimentation, but to answer your question about copper, aside from being much too soft, copper galvanically corrodes easily when contacting other metals. It also oxidizes very easily. With high heat and a rh% in the 40-60 range, coupled with the moisture present in filaments, a copper nozzle would need to be removed and cleaned, if not rby cope413 - General
the 3 most common spool sizes, in no particular order: 1) 6.5" Diameter, 3.75" width, .78" inner diameter (for the spool holder) 2) 6.5" diameter, 3.375" width, 1.25" ID 3) 8" diameter, 2.75" width, 2.05" IDby cope413 - Reprappers
Quotegreenman100 Quotecope413 Not sure where that came from... All I was saying was that posting speed settings without also posting jerk/accel firmware settings was meaningless. Everyone is very impressed with your amazingly rigid and fast cartesian bot... at least everyone who doesn't have a delta bot. Yeah jerk and accel of 1. Its hitting 225mm/s. I'm quite familiar with acceleration andby cope413 - General
Pretty cool prints. Gotta get yourself a delta, print a full size model and probably just as fast as 50% scaleby cope413 - Reprappers
QuoteDirty Steve I've ran prints running up near 100+ hours on my machine without failure during the print. 100 hour print? Were you printing at 1mm/s?by cope413 - Reprappers
Not sure where that came from... All I was saying was that posting speed settings without also posting jerk/accel firmware settings was meaningless. Everyone is very impressed with your amazingly rigid and fast cartesian bot... at least everyone who doesn't have a delta bot.by cope413 - General
Quotegreenman100 Quoteaduy when you say 220mm/s that means nothing, what is the input speed relative to the filament, whats the nozzle size and layer height? the fastest i can run my machine currently is 15mm/s of 1.75mm filament into the hotend. I said 225mm/s, and I'm not sure it "means nothing". Anyway: 0.4mm nozzle, 0.3mm layer heights. Looks like around 14mm/sec of 1.75mm filament past theby cope413 - General
Get yourself some dampers for your motors. Astrosyn out of the UK sells some for Nema17 motors. Drastically cuts noise.by cope413 - General
desert extrusion - .065" diameter Little tough to find - I cleaned out everything they had on Amazon - but I'm sure it's out there. Yes. drying is a must. The results are amazing. I love the stuff.by cope413 - General
I've been printing extensively with trimmer line for the past 4-5 months (somewhere in the neighborhood of 25lbs of filament), and I've tried .25, .4, and .6mm nozzles. The .25 nozzle at .08, .10, .15 layer heights all look fantastic, but they have the strength of PLA. Easy delam .4 nozzle at .2, .25, .325 layer heights only produced strong prints at .325 layers. .6 nozzle at .4, .45 and .5 lby cope413 - General
What layer heights are you guys printing at? I noticed a substantial increase in inter-layer adhesion with nylon and PC when I went to .35-.5mm layers with my .6mm nozzle.by cope413 - General
Why do you want to write through Pronterface/Melzi? It'll take you forever to write to the SD through your electronics board... Stick it in your PC, write, then mount to the machine.by cope413 - General
It's great with PLA. The problems are outliers at best. More likely, they're related to some other variable - not the hot end.by cope413 - General
Learn with PLA - much easier and more forgiving. Skip ABS altogether. When you're comfortable with the machine, just go straight to nylon. Nylon is superior in every way to ABS - stronger, more flexible when thin, better bridging, better interlayer adhesion, doesn't require heated bed, less warp, etc... And the E3D is definitely the way to go.by cope413 - General
That reviewer needs to find another hobby. He never asked anyone on the forums or at SeeMe for help. Had he done so, all the issues he encountered would have been easily addressed. The fact that he mounted a direct drive to the effector is just ridiculous. Also, the machine has changed considerably since that review - new extruder, new delta arms, and new nozzle - so it's not really even relevanby cope413 - General
It's tougher than cartesian, and it will be harder because this is your first machine so you're not familiar with the process at all, but once you understand how the machine works (and you will become very familiar during your build), it's really not that difficult. You can save the calibration gcode commands in rephost. It's 4 points - x tower, y tower, z tower, and center point. All that is reby cope413 - General
It's not difficult to make a very rigid delta. The Max already uses 80/20 towers. If you were to cut some aluminum plates for the base and top, you could make it incredibly rigid. Consider using carbon fiber delta arms (very inexpensive), and you have a very rigid, very accurate printer. 25micron layer alignment precision is not an exaggeration.by cope413 - General
How cheap do you expect things to get? If you look at laser printers as the analog to 3d printers, back in the day it was thousands of dollars for laser printers. Now, it still costs $300-$400 to buy a decent home laser printer. There are really cheap ones for $100, and really nice ones for $2k-$3k, and a whole bunch of decent ones in between. Pretty much exactly where 3D printers are at rightby cope413 - General
Yes, a pretty substantial one IME. I owned an Airwolf v5.5 previous to my Max, and I've used a Replicator 2 for about 2.5 months. The layer alignment and speed of the delta is far superior to either. Not to mention I can print huge things that aren't possible on 99% of all cartesian bots. Lots of people will tell you they print at 150mm/s or whatever, but the vast majority of them don't undersby cope413 - General
It's not wood, it's melamine coated MDF. (and yes, I am aware that MDF has wood fibers, but it's not the same thing - not even close) I've got over 500 hours on my Max and haven't had any issues whatsoever with shifts/changes/settling of the frame pieces. Aluminum can certainly offer more rigidity and tighter tolerances, but it's more expensive and there are no readily available aluminum delta kby cope413 - General
go with a Delta, though I'm skeptical of the 3DR and other deltas that use printed parts. Rigidity is crucial for Deltas, and even a few thousands of variance can drive you batty trying to calibrate. You'd be hardpressed to find a better value than the RostockMax - SeeMeCNC Huge build envelope, precise, fast, upgradeable... And if you want to do it yourself, you can buy the laser cut frame andby cope413 - General
Go directly to E3D... do not pass go, do not collect $200. The prusa is still woefully undersupported and undertested. Just do a quick search of "prusa hot end problems" and read all about them. I love my E3D. It prints everything amazingly well. I print mainly with Nylon, so it's a must have for me, but PLA and ABS are easy. I've printed Bendlay, soft PLA, and laywood too. Not a single jam. Wby cope413 - Reprappers
Not sure what nylon you're trying to print, but most nylons need to be at 250C to get good layer adhesion. Save yourself the trouble and upgrade to an all metal hot end now. I wouldn't print nylon without one. When PEEK degrades it release some nasty stuff into the air.by cope413 - Reprappers
Sounds like you definitely need a class or tutorial... There are a bunch of ways to make threading... but it really depends on what you already have made. check youtube for tutorials - But really, you should look for a community college class you could take. It'll make your life 1000x easier. Or, switch to Solidworks and get the Solidworks Bible and work through it.by cope413 - General
Eh, I agree with what you say in principle, but I haven't found much lost in efficiency. I saw a pretty nice increase in bed heating speed with the sheeting, and I definitely noticed a big decrease in operating current. While printing, my bed is rarely running above 30%, and my hot end - unless I'm printing nylon at 260-265C, is rarely above 50% - so how much am I going to gain in efficiency withby cope413 - General