Quotedjinn5150 From the pic it doesn't appear you have the x rod lock screws installed( at least that I can see) That will have an effect on the tension of the rods as well. I found they have to be installed on at least one side of the "y slide" to keep the rods in position. I didn't even realize I needed to do that. Upon further inspection this morning I noticed the holes. I will tap them toniby phinsil6 - Smart_Rap
Just a little update: I've got everything together now, and I'm not entirely impressed. Not the designs fault but the tolerances of some things. The X rails are loose and the whole thing does not slide square. I do not have the belts completely hooked up since I can't get the last belt into the little clamp. Maybe it would all slide more square if the belts were attached. As for the Z, I thby phinsil6 - Smart_Rap
Quotedjinn5150 Bushings would go in place of the lm8uu bearings, what cad are you using? I guess I'm still confused. Because I have the LM8UU bearings I just am having a hard time printing the "head" pieces with the belt clamps Quotemadmike8 Lol, I have so much makerslide and spindle carriages hehe... I could do that... Yeah I'm beginning to realize this actually might be a good idea... What doby phinsil6 - Smart_Rap
i'm not sure what you mean by PLA bushing? Also, this MS idea isn't as hairbrained as I thought, this is what I've dreamed up so farby phinsil6 - Smart_Rap
Ok I am having some slight depression with trying to print these parts and assemble everything. I would like to formally ask for some help printing the x carriage mounts. my setup just can't cut the teeth as it is right now. Such depression right now i am designing in my mind a different printer using MakerSlide with Delrin V-wheels...by phinsil6 - Smart_Rap
I will stop by my local automotive store tonight and see what lubricants they have (O'Reilys). Two questions on the assembly videos: 1. Is it just me or is there no sound? 2. Watching the XY Assemblies, I don't see any M3 nuts in use anywhere. are the plastic holes supposed to be M3 tapped??? I've been drilling them out and figuring that my bolts weren't fitting because of my printer's toleranby phinsil6 - Smart_Rap
Quotedjinn5150 1. Yes there are some videos see this link Smartfriendz Youtube Channel 2. Yes they need to be mirrored. Your really want to generate a build plate on the youmagine link and break those parts out, if you just view individual parts and try to download the stl you wont get all the parts right. I used cura to just save each axis parts as seperate stl "plates" 3. Yes they are to act asby phinsil6 - Smart_Rap
Hello All, I am gearing up for my first 3D printer build and am really excited about the building the SmartRap Core. I believe I have all of the mechanical equipment and I am in the process of printing the parts necessary to get the Core up and running. Here is what I have so far: -3 Nema 17s -3 GT2 20 tooth pulleys -5m GT2 belting -Ramps 1.4 & Mega & A4988 drivers -Bulldog XL Extruderby phinsil6 - Smart_Rap
I recently ordered the new Aluminum Mk3 Dual Power heated bed (Amazon) but I have no idea what kind of thermistor/resistor/led to get to solder onto the board (Digikey/Mouser). I plan on using 24V. I am very excited to have an aluminum heated bed so that I can use an inductive sensor for bed leveling. Thanksby phinsil6 - General
after looking at a couple designs i would ultimately like to build something like the zelogik AluXY degisn which is all aluminum with extrusions and milled aluminum parts. however i need my Shapeoko 2 back for that. so in the meantime i think i will go with either the X3D or SmartCore because they look very minimal and im hoping to print the parts i need. or i was thinking of buying the alreadby phinsil6 - Reprappers
yeah i usually order my stuff online. brick and mortar stores usually have nothing i ever need now it seems pretty clear to me that i want a CoreXY reprap. and maybe i should post this question instead in the CoreXY Reprap forum but are there any PROVEN (such as Mendelmax 2 or 3) designs with BOMs where I can source the equipment myself. since getting a kit would be a waste of money since i hby phinsil6 - Reprappers
I'm in the US so I should be able to get most of the parts available. SmartRap Core looks pretty decent but it looks like bowden is the only option for it. which means from what i understand that flexible filaments are out. Am I wrong on this? Can Bowden do all of the filaments that direct driving can do?by phinsil6 - Reprappers
Hello! I have successfully converted my Shapeoko 2 CNC machine into a 3D printer but now I would like to have my CNC machine back and build a separate machine for the printing. However I am having a really hard time picking a design. I would like it to be future proof (or as future proof as a 3d printer can be) and be able to print many filaments. I also don't want a type of printer that withby phinsil6 - Reprappers
sorry for the lack of responses on my part, i had some family emergencies come up. but thank you for the responses. i was thinking it was some weird endstop/interlock issue so i redownloaded the most recent marlin release from github and flashed the mega with a fresh default copy and now I've got everything working. I still think i need to tune the motors, but with the pololu a4988s its kind oby phinsil6 - General
Hello, I have a Shapeoko 2 CNC machine that I am trying to use as a 3d printer as well. I have successfully used the machine for a long time now with the G-Shield (Synthesos). However, I am having a hard time getting the motors to move with my 3D printer electronics. My setup is the following: -(2) Nema-17 Y Axis Motors -(1) Nema-23 X Axis Motor -(1) Nema-23 Z Axis Motor -(1) Nema-17 5:1 geareby phinsil6 - General
do you have a model or dimensions of your Bulldog XL/E3D Mount? I'm a little confused by your explanation of how to make a new one...by phinsil6 - General
so heres the thing...in a fit of range with everything not fitting together as it should, i kinda mangled and destroyed the plastic fitting in trying to get it out...thoughts?by phinsil6 - General
so i should cut the PTFE flush to the top of the aluminum of the E3D?by phinsil6 - General
Hello, I am trying to build myself a 3D printer and have an extruder/hot end question. I ordered and now have in my possession the following: -Bulldog XL -Bulldog XL E3D Mount -E3D v6 1.75mm Universal However I am having some issues putting it together. The hot end comes with this plastic like fitting in it that where I guess the PTFE tubing goes (which the E3D documentation says is mandatoryby phinsil6 - General
thanks for the response. i have already posted in the Shapeoko forum and I got some pointers. But what I'm really struggling with now is the extruder and heated bed. I haven't the slightest idea of what kind of heated bed to get, what type and so on. My Shapeoko working table is about 12"x12" so a heated bed that size would be nice. As for extruders, I just purchased a E3D v6 from them and tby phinsil6 - General
Hello, I have a rather modified Shapeoko 2 and would like to have it capable of both CNC and 3D Print work with simple tooling changes. I'm not sure if anyone here is very familiar with the Shapeoko CNC project but for the most part I am trying to get advice on a heated bed and extruder. I have already purchased the E3D v6 1.75 Universal hot end and am trying to figure out what extruder I shouby phinsil6 - General
ok thanks, good to know it was as i had guessed, just for space and a little cost.by phinsil6 - Controllers
Hello, I am reverse engineering the RambO board and making it myself. But one thing that continues to confuse me is why there are two types of mosfets being used?? My only guess is to save space of save some cost? I am putting all of the mosfet control on a separate board and I'd like to buy and deal with only one mosfet if at all possible. Any thoughts? Thanks!by phinsil6 - Controllers