creo que esta compra ya se hizo, si van a comprar nuevamente me anotar{ia con un par de rollos PLA transplarentes, pero no los veo en la listaby machapa - RepRap Usergroup - Chile
Quotelabotecno se piden la plata y se compra ! ya tenemos todos los motores !!! saludos pucha, no alcancèby machapa - RepRap Usergroup - Chile
No habia cachado esta parte del foro jajaja como lo hacen? piden la plata y se compra o alguien paga todo y le van "comprando" a el?by machapa - RepRap Usergroup - Chile
"It looks like you are not extruding enough." Extruder At first i thougt this was the so called retraction.... until I set to print a large square, then the extruder did that while doing a straigt line. I'll try a slower printing speed so I dont get overpressure on the extruder and/or raise temp to 210-220 so it can extrude faster...but tomorrow hah it's late for today thanks for your helpby machapa - Printing
Hello! I Finally managed to finish my 3d printer, after calibrating the bed, these are some of my first printings in PLA: they show a strange pattern with the infill and i dont know of to solve it, I tried using different parameters, but nothings seems to improve the quality Can you give any hints to solve this problem? Thank you PLA 200ºC 60% infill. PLA 200ºC 100% infill.by machapa - Printing
Hello Does your printer stop when you click the home axis button on repetier?by machapa - Printing
It's actually a "Filabot Wee" thanks, lowered temperature to get less bubbles but i still have the problem about filament diameter :/ any ideas?by machapa - Plastic Extruder Working Group
Hello i'm new to filament making and i've got some problems, i'm currently using PLA when the extruded filament comes out the extruder nozzle, it's weight pulls it down so it gets stretched and i can't get constant diameter to be able to print with it. I've put the filastruder vertically because when it's horizonaly, filament tends to curl, but vertically gravity mess with me Also, sometimby machapa - Plastic Extruder Working Group
Quotebrandon We are building the heat bed of a Mendel Tricolor and the instructions show an LED and 1K resistor. Our kit did not come with these. No where in the packing list does it show these either. Has the build been modified to not have these. If so, does someone have some updated plans and pictures? Thanks, LED is only for a visual confirmation that the heated bed is acually getting enby machapa - Reprappers
Quotetmorris9 Quotevreihen Th only place where crimping is mandatory is at the thermistor legs, since solder has been reported to melt due to the heat from the hotend..... Exactly. Anything next to the hotend should be crimped. How about heated bed - RAMPS wirings? they are hot too, right? ( just building my first printer and this is a interesting topic)by machapa - Reprappers
I'm sorry to hear that about yor father, specially when it's fathers day in my country. About the topic: This'll be your bible, it's for Prusa mendel, but it's just a model, you can build the printer in almost any way and still use the same basic instructions.by machapa - Reprappers
QuoteGogolian I'm not quite sure what you mean by the dampener (english is not my main language) Do you mean those metal parts on top? And i found this: I think i'll give it a try Use a led, is the easiest way, check this: also, manufacturers often wive the information about wiring, you'll get 2 pairs A and B, you can connect them in any order: (1) A- A+ B- B+ (2) A+,A- ;B+; B- (3) B+ B-by machapa - Reprappers
I'm building a Reprap too and this is one of my concerns, maybe longer wires could help to cool down temperature along the wire.by machapa - Reprappers
you could increase the resistance of the circuit so it doesn't get so hot.by machapa - Reprappers
Quotenophead There is usually a 3.3V sense wire connected to one of the orange wires in one pin of the 24 way connector. Sometimes it is brown or maybe a thinner orange. If you separate that from the orange it may cause the PSU to shut down. IT WORKED!!!! thank you!!by machapa - General
Hello everyone! I was testing my printer with an ATX power supply, everything was working until I decided to cut down the messy wiring coming out from my ATX power supply and leave only the ones that I needed, so I left only those 4 cables from 12v, the green (PS-ON and a black GND to close circuit) but this time, the power supply went broken... When I plug it, it just light on the RAMPS led andby machapa - General
Just received this kit: and everything seems to be ok, I haven't tested the polulus yet, i can't because my stepper motors has'nt arrived.by machapa - Reprappers
Just X axis? Case 1: it would give random results and not constant 5º skew, so is not motors Case 3: Print this! all I can think off is case 2: your printer is not Squared. hang a pendulum or a weight and check if your Z axis has that 5 degrees skew. you can also use a set-square plastic rulerby machapa - Reprappers
-check this trick, just use a LED to know if your stepper motor is working (Spanish video) -Swap polulus steper drivers, maybe your polulu is not working. -check the power on the motors with a voltmeter.by machapa - Reprappers
swap the stepper driver with other axes (power off) it maybe be damaged, if not, check your steps per mmby machapa - Reprappers
Aboput printing circles, you might want to read this:by machapa - Reprappers
I'm building my first printer too. I got these parts from aliexpress (waiting to arrive) as you can see it's about $230 + Steel rods and nuts, washers, etc (about $70) so, you are totally in with 650 dollars Electronics kit Bearings Stepper motorsby machapa - General
Hello RepRapers! I'm currently building my very first printer (Prusa i3), I have a heatbed MK2B (214mmx 214mm), but i need a printing area of 30x20 for the things i want to print. I was thinking of using a bigger aluminium plate (or copper,because of it's heat conductivity) over the heatbed, so it can be heated by the bed (direct phisical heat transfer) and also be dismounted easily for normalby machapa - Reprappers