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People building or using RepRaps.
Re: Using a DC booster for 24V on the heated bed only - 8 years ago
Quoteicefire QuoteDjDemonD So the device you show above is a step up transformer 12v dc to 24v dc? Yes, it is. The idea would be to do something like this: What you suggest with an automotive relay or a solid state relay is basically the same with the additional advantage that I am not pulling that much current through the RAMPS. My question is if I could avoid using two separate power supplieby jaguarking11 - General
Re: Parts for a belt driven extruder in the UK? - 8 years ago
I have been on vacation for some time. Love the look of the extruder in your setup. I see you kept the faucet handle I would love to test out your version of the extruder. I have been thinking of making a direct drive version as well for those who dont mind adding 200G to their carriage. Let me know when you upload it. -Bruno EDIT: on the hall sensor front, I made the sensor holders adjusby jaguarking11 - Mechanics
Re: The calipers don't lie or do they? - 8 years ago
I have a pair of cheapo calipers and a pair of Korean Made calipers that cost 3x the price (the brand escapes me at the moment) I have used the cheap calipers as a throw around tool. I do not use them where .01mm accuracy is critical but I also use them to scribe and literally hang them up on my 3d printer after use. As long as you know what your dealing with they are a fine tool that surely beaby jaguarking11 - General
Re: Parts for a belt driven extruder in the UK? - 8 years ago
I would not put that curve on the output. I think a straight shot is a much better way out the extruder as it reduces friction. PTFE tubing is used to get the radious curves you may or may not need. My .02c, this is a truely open design so you can do whatever you like. As for the magnets. Mine are in the 3x5mm cylinder size. My advice is to mount the sensors on the body of the printer and haveby jaguarking11 - Mechanics
Re: Parts for a belt driven extruder in the UK? - 8 years ago
QuotePointy Quotejaguarking11Hey. im glad you got yours going. The steps per/mm sound about right. I would do this if I were you. Unplug your hot end and trim the filament flush with the bowden. Then command the extruder to extrude 100mm of plastic. Then measure from the edge of the tube to the tip of the filament. Then simply take your knowsn steps in this case 208 then multiply it by desired diby jaguarking11 - Mechanics
Re: Parts for a belt driven extruder in the UK? - 8 years ago
QuotePointy Quotejaguarking11 QuotePointy Quotejaguarking11 Did you build your extruder? How did it come out if you built it. I have it part assembled, but I am waiting for the 40T pulley and belt which have finally left China. Had to print some parts again after tweaking the files as the holes came out quite a bit under size. ( I think it's a problem with Slic3r when you do infill before perimby jaguarking11 - Mechanics
Re: octoprint and relay question - 8 years ago
I used a 5v arduino relay, it has the coupling etc needed to protect your pi and run just about any load, as long as you dont want fast switching. I use it to control my printer. I am giving away a fully built octopi-zero server soon on my channel. FYI. you do need wiringpi installed on your pi as well as make the appropriate config changes in config.yaml Here is the official guide, a bit cumbby jaguarking11 - General
Re: 3D Printed Power Hacksaw - 8 years ago
Quotegmh39 That's pretty cool. Do you get any alignment problems from blade flex? No alignment problems as there is a guide. If the blade is tensioned properly it will not have much flex. The finish it leaves shows perfectly straight cuts. I have more updates to the design I will add at a later date. Including a blade guide that bolts to the chuck.by jaguarking11 - Look what I made!
3D Printed Power Hacksaw - 8 years ago
I wanted a precise way to cut steel for my upcoming CNC mill project. With that said a comercial chop saw was too messy and imprecise, and a comercial powered hacksaw was ~200$+ I designed and built my own using parts from my bin and about 30bux in home depot parts. Here she is. 3d-Printed-Power-Hacksawby jaguarking11 - Look what I made!
Re: Introducing "Unobtanium" - 8 years ago
QuotefilipeCampos Cables guides, all cables with a perfect length. Very nice and clean... my cables of my printer are a mess in relation to yours. two suggestions: 1) endstops: I prefer the endstop without red plastic wheel and metal. reasons: better precision and you can gain some mm in the axis. 2) Yours printed pieces that secure the belt are not in contact with the carriage and your are losiby jaguarking11 - CoreXY Machines
Re: Introducing "Unobtanium" - 8 years ago
QuoteNosmo Quotejaguarking11 What touchscreen is that? How does it interface with MKS-Base? The screen is a 3.2" touchscreen from MKS. This is the Aliexpress link. The screen is connected to the Aux1 connector of the controller. Thank you for the link. I appreciate the info.by jaguarking11 - CoreXY Machines
Re: Introducing "Unobtanium" - 8 years ago
What touchscreen is that? How does it interface with MKS-Base?by jaguarking11 - CoreXY Machines
Re: large diameter heated-bed design - 8 years ago
You can skip styrofoam and go fiberglass. That should handle the 100c range of the bed. Just get ready for a respirator and allot of itching.by jaguarking11 - Delta Machines
Re: Delta pulley and idler dimensions question - 8 years ago
Quoterealthor Quotevoi9viper I just hate imprecission too. syncromesh as in trasmissions? Or is it something new, which I suspect if patents apply. I'm dating myself, but my 71 firebird had a syncromesh tranny I think. No idea how old this is but this is it: I have also been thinking of these kinds of chains. They may work in our setup and they could be stronger, although not necessarily moby jaguarking11 - Delta Machines
Re: Delta pulley and idler dimensions question - 8 years ago
Quoterealthor Quotejaguarking11 I run 20T pulleys on my delta with 5mm id flanged bearings in a sandwitch. It works, however I am not happy with the arangement. I would like to run a 20T pulley with built in bearings, however I have not found any yet. With that said, I still run rubber belts even with a heated chamber and 45-50C in there they seem to have settled down. I think a redesign of theby jaguarking11 - Delta Machines
Re: Delta preferred tower end stop switches? - 8 years ago
Quotedc42 Quotejaguarking11 ...The only down side I had with these is that they are not linear. If you approach from a longer distance they will always triger, but they will not unhook until I exceed the approach. Meaning, if I am at the last 10mm of travel they will trigger at 9mm for arguments sake, but for them to go into off state I have to move the carriage out to 15-20mm before they registeby jaguarking11 - Delta Machines
Re: Heated enclosure - What kind of heaters and power? - 8 years ago
In my delta I used a cheap automotive heater ~100w, and a 120mm fan bolted to the celing of the printer for air mixing. My heated chamber is controlled by a different controller. I have to say a few things on the subject. 1 - Do not underestimate the amount of insulation you need in a 3d printer. 2 - make sure you move the air around to get even heat in the chamber. A top mixing fan is recommby jaguarking11 - CoreXY Machines
Re: Delta pulley and idler dimensions question - 8 years ago
I run 20T pulleys on my delta with 5mm id flanged bearings in a sandwitch. It works, however I am not happy with the arangement. I would like to run a 20T pulley with built in bearings, however I have not found any yet. With that said, I still run rubber belts even with a heated chamber and 45-50C in there they seem to have settled down. I think a redesign of the idler side of a delta is necessby jaguarking11 - Delta Machines
Re: Delta preferred tower end stop switches? - 8 years ago
For me the repetability was higher than what my probe could read. 1/1000th of an inch or 0.0254mm. That was good enough for me. The magnets will "wear" however I do not forsee them wearing out before the machine does. Even if they do, a recalibration does not take more than 15-20min for me to do it manually. The only down side I had with these is that they are not linear. If you approach from a lby jaguarking11 - Delta Machines
Re: Delta preferred tower end stop switches? - 8 years ago
For me the cost was sunk. They are more acurate than the mechanical switches I had as well. I spent like 5bux per end stop in the past. However the cost breakdown would be. ~1usd for the switches. ~3-4USD for a cable/shrink sleaving. ~1USD for a set of 4 neodymium magnets from the dollar store. ~6usd for a setup and still have some parts left over as spares. Still cheaper and more acurateby jaguarking11 - Delta Machines
Re: Delta preferred tower end stop switches? - 8 years ago
I use 20c hall sensors. This guy mentions the part numbers. The switches are actually very very accurate. Check out my video on them.by jaguarking11 - Delta Machines
Re: large diameter heated-bed design - 8 years ago
I use cheap thermal paste between bed and 2mm heat spreader and thermal paste between spreader and glass. The bed gets into the 100c range pretty good.by jaguarking11 - Delta Machines
Re: Garbled LCD screens - 8 years ago
I traced my problem down to static in the air and bad grounding. It had nothing to do with the ribbon cables. I simply grounded the knob encoder (metal part) to my psu and it never happened again. This was an issue when I was printing in my apartment when the heat was on causing very very dry air.by jaguarking11 - General
Re: Retract length ... - 8 years ago
Quoten8bot You are exactly right about the loose points. I'm speaking even after accounting for these effects, there is a spring effect to the bowden system. This is really unavoidable, as the tube needs to be flexible and the diameter of the filament cannot be exactly the same as the bowden tube or it would bind. I'm even running a 1.8mm ID bowden tube, which is quite tight and requires a gearedby jaguarking11 - Delta Machines
Re: Retract length ... - 8 years ago
Quoten8bot Be careful with too much retraction, as if your hot-end is not optimal, or has a very short transition between hot and cold, you can cause jams by having too long of a retract. This can be hidden until you print gcode with many retractions in a small timeframe. I find that there are ways of combating the drawbacks of a bowden setup with slicer settings, like the coast and wipe functioby jaguarking11 - Delta Machines
Re: Retract length ... - 8 years ago
I retract around 3.5mm at 100mm/s. Wheather or not it ever reaches 100mm/s is another subject. I do not get any blobbing. There are things you can do to eliminate some of the slop and reduce retraction length. Remember through, if you retract too much it may cause jamming. Some hot ends have a very fine heat break, others do not.by jaguarking11 - Delta Machines
Re: what is practical/possible with regards to size? - 8 years ago
Another thing to mention, at least from my own design. The rods should not be part of the support structure. Design the case in 3 parts. Top/Bottom/Support structure. Personally I have been thinking of a larger Delta for some time. I currently run 330x360 delta. My goal is 500x600 or there abouts. I would like to use cast iron top and bottom plates. Black Cast pipe in 3/4inch x 6 to supportby jaguarking11 - Delta Machines
Re: Talk me out of (or into) a Delta - 8 years ago
Just an FYI; You can run a delta with ramps. Take into account the segment count to do it properly. Maximum speed is also limited, I noticed that the larger it gets the more taxing it is on the CPU. My personal delta does about 330mm cylinder area by 380mm height. At this size the mega 2560 chokes at anything over 175mm/s and mostly works best at around 100mm/s.... The upside is that I use itby jaguarking11 - Delta Machines
Re: Extruder drive/Cold End Suggestions with higher force capability? - 8 years ago
I actually prefer the MK7 gear with a geared/belted extruder. I only tested the mk8 once and I have to say it works well for direct drive, but ground my filament to halt with a 2:1 ratio. I prefer the surface area of mk7, it is less willing to slip and grind than the mk8.by jaguarking11 - General
Re: Authentic E3DLite6 or Knock off E3DV6? - 8 years ago
Try this if you decide to go the knock off route. This is the heatbreak polish. This is the rework for the hot end. It has worked for me and a bunch of the viewers on youtube. Whatever route you go, disassemble the hot end and make sure its clean. I only print with abs.by jaguarking11 - General