Thank you for the replay. My printer is kossel mini. I have made the extruder test according to richrap link I get 10 c"m exactly so I assume that the extruder is calibrated..by polkary - Reprappers
Hi guys, Hope you could help me again. Finally my E3D has arrive & had time to install it. Re-calibrated EVERYTHING and started printing a box. Didn't need to finish till the end to see that the under extrusion I was expecting to be resolved when switching to E3D v6 didn't resolved. So I guess this isn't the issue (new E3D v6 didn't use it before, printed only PLA in this test only) Atby polkary - Reprappers
and we have a winner! Zerker thank you! Yesterday someone (whose opinion I respect VERY MUCH) saw my print and told me that it's look like under extrusion & asked if my nuzzle is 100% clean. Yet I think that all thought I only printed ABS / PLA i might have some issues with the nuzzle not perfectly clean. I hope to install a new all metal nuzzle (E3D) this weekend to test it... Thankby polkary - Reprappers
indeed , I print it at once single time - this was my first print after calibrated cube. This is the best examples for what great things can be done only in 3d printing (as far as I know of )by polkary - Reprappers
Eric thank you for the tips. Yes every thing I print tern out bad (even when printing at 30 mm/sec speed in all movements not only print speed but from point to point as well). It seems like in each layer the output isn't ok you can see in the first pic (link) in my previous post. While all of what you wrote seems OK, I would prefer to stick to what worked for me in the past. This will help me tby polkary - Reprappers
Hi all, Thank you all for the support, I try to dry the PLA several times. After a few attempts I bought new PLA filament, I arrived in the good case with silca gel in it so I assume it is OK. My print came out BAD as before :/ Before the hotend jam I was able to print rotating things like this . But my last print was like this at start we can see the spikes : The end product was full of nby polkary - Reprappers
Thank you. I'll try that in the weekendby polkary - Reprappers
Thank you for the replay. I plan to cut out of the spool about 2 for test print to verify that this is the "only" issue for the terrible prints. I just don't know what is "a few hours". I know that the time depends on the heat & on the amount of filament & it's purity so.. Basically I would like receive feedback from people how did made this procedure, lets assume: My toster oven iby polkary - Reprappers
Thank you all for the replays I've validated the issue & I do have a wet filament, bubbles can be seen from the nuzzle head. According to your experience when cooking the filament in toaster oven (not one I'll be using for food): 60 degree (C) is OK for PLA? higher/lower? How many hours should I keep the filament in the toaster oven?by polkary - Reprappers
Thank you for the replay. Wow I didn't think about it & stored it in a not that good conditions... so I guess this is a very good direction that I should test. Before running & buying new filament could advice on how to dry my current filament? or should I just buy new one?by polkary - Reprappers
Thank you for the info. Could you kindly explain the "you shouldn't use 100% infill density." My settings - under Basic: Quality Layer height (mm) 0.1 Shell thickness(mm) 1.0 Enable retraction Fill Bottom/Top thickness(mm) 0.6 Fill Density (%) 100 Speed and Temperature Print speed (mm/s) 30 Print temperature (C) 185 Bed temperature (C) 60 Suby polkary - Reprappers
Update: I made another print in lower speed, only lower the Print Speed 50 to 20 I produced an improvement in the area close to printed bed as can be viewed in the pic. Any ideas will be welcomedby polkary - Reprappers
Hi guys, Its been a while since I've printed anything since my last jam (tried to print PLA than ABS than PLA => that coused the JAM) Finally I had time to fix my printer. My printer: kossel-mini (delta). I've re-calibrated it to about 0.3-2 mm diff in 3 axes, I know its not perfect but for small parts it should be OK. Re-calibrated the extrueder using richrap manual so 10 was exactly 10 .by polkary - Reprappers
Thank you both, I'll try what you offered. I'm sure you have more experience than me so could you kindly explain me something? The Z axes is as you assumed close to the a. The b mark was created while hotend moves in diagonal from right to left downwards (towards X axes) in this movement the hotend goes away from Z axes. If Z axes is too close I would have expect that such movement will breakby polkary - Reprappers
Thank you for your replay. When you wrote about moving Z up did you refer to part a only or to both? I'm less concern about the a problem & much more about the b problem...by polkary - Reprappers
Hi, Setup: I have a kossel mini delta printer. filament is calibrated & axes as well (at least this was what I thought). When I tried to print "large" thing I got a very bad start in every configuration I've tried (till now). There are 2 major issues in the attached picture I would like to get advice about: There is less filament in those areas compered to others - moving my finger on it seeby polkary - Reprappers
I have recently switched filament color (ABS) while noticing that it needed lower temp, I'm not sure it isn't bad lack but.. It seems like this is an issue for all multicolored solution (I've seen till now) are there solutions I haven't read about yet? Or all solution consists on fast injection before filament gets burn?by polkary - Developers
Thank you for the correction - typo only 1 point if he doesn't have experience with SW it would be easier for him to work with Arduino for testing (and chipper).by polkary - Developers
If you need 10 steppers total & the duet gives you 7.. I would have go on 2 ramps for start. You can send control signals from the main (master) unit to the others. Are you planning to mount a motor on the printer head?by polkary - Developers
Hello, Please advice about E3D hot ends - I've seen 2 versions one short one long. As I understand the short will give better printed volume, while the longer will have better cooling. Are there more considerations that I'm missing? Thanks.by polkary - Developers
Hello, I'm thinking about adding my kossel mini another extruder. In this link someone has built one. As expected he reported that the nozzles are very difficult to align to the same height. Is there a solution to that issue besides less than ZERO diff in the nuzzles height? Does anyone knows about a working version? Does someone has some experience with things like the ultimaker dual extrudby polkary - Reprappers
Cool! thank you I didn't know it existsby polkary - Reprappers
Hi, Thank you for the replay. I have made one but I would like to be able to connect to one of the kossel extrusions. BUT the lines are blocked from top & I would like to learn how to connect to kossel without removing the frame etc' (if possible)by polkary - Reprappers
Hello, I've been searching around for a simple spool holder for (for 38 mm center spools) mini kossel. Found this It seems to me that I can't insert the M3 nut to the extrusion stand since it is blocked by the upper frame. Is there a way to insert the nut without removing the upper frame? Can someone recommend spool holder (for 38 mm center spools) that can be printed in mini kossel & woby polkary - Reprappers
Hi, I have a kossel mini working and all.. Last print I smelled something burning shut down everything at once and notice that the F2 fuse looks like in the picture. Disconnecting my heated bead fixed the issue but... How can I have both heated bed & not burning F2 fuse? why did it happened? ideas? how to prevent?by polkary - Reprappers
Solved & I write it for the case others will search it up.. It was combination of: 1. PSU was too old & didn't deliver the expected , I've changed to new PSU + took all 12 (yellow) wires and attached them together to increase the power consumption. 2. Wires weren't designed to pass more than 5 switched the 5 so I've switched 2 wires to 10 wires (they are thicker) 3. Added a fan directby polkary - Reprappers
All of what you described are symptoms for shortage. You need to first find source of issue verify that the arduino is OK than move to ramps (why? it is easier): a. Disconnect your ramps from the arduino. b.Connect to arduino using usb only and burn the example BLINK project on it. c. If that doesn't work than you have at least damaged the arduino if it works continue to d.. d. Burn the fby polkary - Reprappers
Hi, Well I'm a newbie as well but I have worked on some crazy HW in the past and it sounds like a HW issue. First disconnect the 11A during the test. I would advice to use a DVM fist check the ramps for the 12 than all the other voltages (5 )it should produce. If that is OK than you need to test the Arduino - same check voltages it's easier. Report back & it will be easier to eliminate proby polkary - Reprappers
Hi, I've finally printed the first cube (my setup: kossel mini printed with PLA). The cube is only OK no perfect. one can see the attached photo.. How can I fix those jumps\holes in my next print?by polkary - Reprappers
Thank you guys, I've tested outside + fan + heat sink. still having issues with slow heating (more than 10 minutes to arrive to 95 while temp goes up than down than up again) since the heat was sounded like a real issue I've tested that & with the fan [2000 RPM] I don't think that the MOSFET over-heating and I would expect to feel the heat when I'm near it but the fan does it's job & I fby polkary - Reprappers