Have you uploaded the firmware to the Arduino?by alvinhochun - General Mendel Topics
You're printing PLA, you don't need a heated chamber. The heated bed temperature typically at around 60 to 65 degC is enough. Your problem is caused by bad bed adhesion. If cleaning the glass thoroughly with isopropyl alcohol doesn't work, try using blue tape or diluted white glue. Also, you should consider adding a fan to cool the print if you don't have one already.by alvinhochun - Printing
What is your bed? Some can have good first-layer adhesion with bare glass, some use blue painter tapes, some use diluted white glue.by alvinhochun - Printing
I am using an AOT240L (as suggested on #reprap irc) and even without a heatsink and fan it isn't hot enough to burn my fingers. My heated bed is about 1.4 ohm. You probably should still add a fan to be sure.by alvinhochun - Reprappers
Just bend the header socket. Best done with wire inserted.by alvinhochun - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotewaitaki Seriously, why do you say that? There are thousands of printers out there using that chip, including mine - my printers have been running nearly 2 years with no Mosfet problems and I only have a small heatsink and a 40mm fan on mine. Yeah it may be fine with heatsink and fan, but still it is better if the MOSFET produce less heat. With a heated bed running at 10A the P55NF06L reallyby alvinhochun - Reprappers
QuoteLittleMikeIt's not symmetrical. The "bumps" that hold the y-belt will stop at the motor if it's on the wrong side. Well, I guess you could put the carriage either direction, but the motor would have to go on the other, so in a way symmetrical, in a way not. Haha. Does it? Mine doesn't. QuoteLittleMikeAny particular reason why I should align them to the top? You mean the way the loop goes,by alvinhochun - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteLittleMike I think I figured out my problem. Or at least one of them. Someone please clarify for me, if looking at the printer from the front, which way is the y-carriage oriented? Is the side with the two bearings on the left or the right? Also, which side is the motor mounted to, the left or right? I think I have my y-carriage flipped 180 and the y-holder is hitting up against the motor.by alvinhochun - Prusa i3 and variants
Seriously, the P55NF06L is not going to work nicely for the heated bed. Mine had gone up to 180degC and above without a heatsink and fan. I don't think it can be cooled down a lot even with a huge heatsink. I just switched to an AOT240L (some guys on #reprap suggested that) which only go up to 50degC even without a heatsink and no fan cooling.by alvinhochun - Reprappers
I thought the "official" Prusa i3 information isby alvinhochun - Reprappers
What is the part number of your MOSFET? The built-in ones might be too crappy and generate too much heat. You can either add heatsink and add cooling to it, or you can change to a MOSFET which generate less heat.by alvinhochun - Reprappers
How about a Prusa i3?by alvinhochun - Reprappers
QuoteBratan I'm trying to print with ABS that came from Replikeo with kit, but so far having strange issue. First layer sometimes prints in wavy lines. I searched for similar issue and didn't find anyone mentioning it. I tried various temperatures from 235C to 220C, best seems to be at 225C, but still fist layer is totally busted. I suspect it could be problem with ABS material... Any suggestionsby alvinhochun - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteRepelsteler Thanks ... seems my connector is missing I suggest you contact Replikeo for that.by alvinhochun - Prusa i3 and variants
QuotesilsantoShould I keep the box close and sell it as an antique in 20 years? (Personal opinion) Yes. Build yourself a Prusa i3 instead.by alvinhochun - Reprappers
The RAMPS should look exactly like this:by alvinhochun - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteksb24 Hey guys! Im looking to get into 3d printing and I cant decide whether to get a replikeo prusa i3 or a printrbot simple? Both are the same price. And if you say the replikeo, what vendor is the best to buy from? Thanks Wherever you buy from, be prepared to replace parts and upgrade the printer yourself. A DIY kit is different from consumer electronics in the way that you need to do iby alvinhochun - Prusa i3 and variants
Have you uploaded the firmware to the Arduino?by alvinhochun - General Mendel Topics
QuoteBratan Yes I mean X-motor mount and idler. They are not upside down, but sometimes hotend pushes on the bed, and nuts coming off. This happened few times already so they are not holding strongly. I'll try superglue, but this is quite obviously a flaw in the design... If your hotend pushes into the bed, then that's something you really should worry about instead, because it can damage the hoby alvinhochun - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteBratanGuys I has another issue with printer, which I kind of expected to happen since day 1. Those little m5 nuts that basically hold whole X assembly moving on the z axes along M5 threaded rods, are finally falling off. There's not much to hold them other than plastic fitting which get's loose with time. Is there a better design for this that anyone know of? Falling off which part? I assumby alvinhochun - Prusa i3 and variants
Now that I look at your photo more clearly, it seems that you really did get all the zipties in the wrong direction... Maybe it's really the effect of the camera, but I think you really should check again or take another photo. Seriously, this is for your own good.by alvinhochun - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteLittleMike Quotealvinhochun QuoteLittleMike QuoteAllnei Problem is not in zip ties, problem is how do you use them You are tightening them backward, teeth are supposed to be facing inward in "ziptie loop" The teeth are inward. If they weren't they wouldn't grip at all. In your photo it does seem like you got the zipties wrong. One side of the head is flat and the other is protruding, makeby alvinhochun - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteLittleMike QuoteAllnei Problem is not in zip ties, problem is how do you use them You are tightening them backward, teeth are supposed to be facing inward in "ziptie loop" The teeth are inward. If they weren't they wouldn't grip at all. In your photo it does seem like you got the zipties wrong. One side of the head is flat and the other is protruding, make sure the protruding end points oby alvinhochun - Prusa i3 and variants
I don't know, maybe some parts have aged? Maybe there is a short somewhere on your boards? You can try measuring the resistance of your heated bed. Also measure the voltage drop of the power supply with all your heaters on. If your multimeter can handle a lot of current, you can also try measuring the current (note you need to connect it in series to measure current).by alvinhochun - Reprappers
Which most likely means you don't have a power supply connected to the RAMPS, or you made the wrong connections, or you forgot to plug in the AC cable. I think it would not even print anything.by alvinhochun - Printing
Looks like the power supply isn't rated enough, and when you have all heating elements taking huge current it overloads the power supply and triggered current protection. What is your power supply rated, and what is the +12V rail rated?by alvinhochun - Reprappers
I've almost done the physical construction and electrical connections, though there are two things I must say: 1. The default MOSFET for the heated bed on the RAMPS is not suitable since it gets really hot, mine gets to 180°C and above (the rated operating temperature is only 175°C). You should either get a better MOSFET or use a relay or ssr rated at at least 15A. 2. The wires that is pre-soldby alvinhochun - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteLittleMike Quotealvinhochun QuoteLittleMike Quotealvinhochun Easy, plug in the cable and bend the connector pins. Now you can screw the screws. Yea, but you have to have the nuts on that side, not the head of the screw. The nut alone is too wide and the screws are too long. How did you get around that? I was able to do that for the X-axis, but not the Z Bend more. Try harder. The endstopsby alvinhochun - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteLittleMike Quotealvinhochun Easy, plug in the cable and bend the connector pins. Now you can screw the screws. Yea, but you have to have the nuts on that side, not the head of the screw. The nut alone is too wide and the screws are too long. How did you get around that? I was able to do that for the X-axis, but not the Z Bend more. Try harder.by alvinhochun - Prusa i3 and variants