I suggest reading the wiki. It explains the difference between G0 and G1 commands, which may explain your issue.by MindRealm - Firmware - Marlin
Quotedc42 Teflon liner works great if you only print PLA. It can tolerate much more retraction than an all metal hot end so it is less prone to jamming. For any other filament i advise an all metal hot end. Thanks for your response. I appreciate it!by MindRealm - Mechanics
Quotethe_digital_dentist The teflon liner is fine, except when it goes into the heater block, in which case it will break down due to the high temperature in the heater block and cause jams instead of preventing them. All metal is the way to go, especially if you want to print anything like ABS, PC, nylon, etc. Great info. Thanks for your response!by MindRealm - Mechanics
A couple thoughts... What type of endstops are used for max? Are they bare switches, switches on circuit boards with LEDs, photo-interrupt sensors, or ?? How many wires are on each switch? Do you have a meter to measure ohms/continuity? Please attach a copy of your Configuration.hby MindRealm - Delta Machines
Also... Tightening the joints (nozzle-to-hot end, hot end-to-throat, throat-to-heat sink, etc.) while the hot end is hot makes a difference.by MindRealm - Printing
Hello, cozmicray. Unless you are building a lab-grade machine (which would exceed the resolution of most 3D printing methods), don't worry so much about static surface flatness. The 0.5 AA specification is a pretty tight tolerance for flatness, but would be susceptible to warpage when heating unless the material is fairly thick. In most cases, for 3D printing, the warpage of most materials is neby MindRealm - General
Hello, Natan. It is important to know that stepper motors operate on a rotational angle, and have a number of steps per rotation. The distance that the filament advances depends on several factors, including the diameter (actually the circumference) of the feed gear and the steps per rotation. This is the same with the motion (axis) steppers, but depends on belt pitch, number of teeth on the geaby MindRealm - General
Hello everyone. Your experience/opinion is wanted! Please let me know whether you prefer using filament throats with PTFE liners or without, and why. Which is more reliable, less likely to jam, etc. I own a few different 3D printers in various configurations and just looking to improve my 'hot rod' printer - not currently having any problems. Thanks for your feedback, opinions, experience aby MindRealm - Mechanics
Layer misalignment is generally caused by missed steps. There are a few common causes: - Stepper driver adjusted too low - Belt too loose on stepper gear. - Extruder nozzle hitting the object while printing. (part lifting/curling) - Interference in motion of the X or Y carriages. - Attempting to print outside the physical X/Y limits (switch engaging) - Error in gcode (uncommon) Hope this infoby MindRealm - Prusa i3 and variants
I will take a look at the configuration.h but also need a little more info first... Do you have an LCD with a knob? If so, there may be some geometry settings saved in its memory. - Shut down power to the printer and carefully unplug the LCD from the RAMPS card (can be unplugged either at the LCD or at the RAMPS) and note where each cable was connected. They fit the same and it is possible toby MindRealm - RAMPS Electronics
Try adjusting the potentiometer beside the LED and check with your meter.by MindRealm - General
Looks like a bed geometry thing to me... The firmware (Marlin?) needs to know where the travel limits are. Manually move the nozzle down to the print bed with the printer powered down then right after turning on the power run M114 and post the results here. Also, attach your configuration.h file to the reply. I'll take a look.by MindRealm - RAMPS Electronics
I assume you mean that the Z-axis doesn't raise (the X-axis is left-right, not up-down) Looks like the setting is here: // Probe Raise options provide clearance for the probe to deploy, stow, and travel. // #define Z_PROBE_DEPLOY_HEIGHT 15 // Raise to make room for the probe to deploy / stow #define Z_PROBE_TRAVEL_HEIGHT 5 // Raise between probing points. Per Line 544 in Configuration.h Hopeby MindRealm - Firmware - Marlin
The torque needed depends on several factors, but boils down to overcoming the resistance of pushing the filament through the nozzle. Temperature, nozzle size, cooling, filament material, stepper speed (steps/mm), etc, all have a bearing on the amount of torque needed. Some extruders exert more mechanical torque than others, allowing for less robust stepper motors... for example, a Wades extrudeby MindRealm - Prusa i3 and variants
Insulating your hot end block will help.by MindRealm - General Mendel Topics
It would be beneficial to insulate the hot end block. This will drastically improve the function of the cold end block and keep the filament from melting to high up into the tube. There are photos of my insulated Mk7 hot end in the links in my signature.by MindRealm - Prusa i3 and variants
Zach, Run PID tuning in G-Code, writing down the results to plug into your configuration.h in Marlin. M303 S200 C3 S=the temperature target (200C in this example to match your graph) C=cycles At the conclusion of the test, you will be provided the Kp, Ki, and Kd for your new hot end.by MindRealm - General Mendel Topics
I second that! I have been using transfer tape for a long time and have great results with it. During PLA prints, I start with the bed hot for three layers then I shut it off. The corners NEVER lift and the print stays put. Then, after printing, I just turn the bed back on for a couple minutes and the part can be removed quite easily. The tape sometimes leaves a tiny bit of paper residue on tby MindRealm - Printing
Hi! Your 3D work looks great. One useful recommendation for you: don't use threaded rods to move the X and Y axes. Doing so will make the printer much too slow. When these axes are fitted with proper bearings there is very little resistance to movement. That being said, it is also important to minimize the weight of your X-carriage. -Davidby MindRealm - Reprappers
I have been using the Mk7 hot end that shipped with my FolgerTech i3 for over a year now. I have insulated the hot end block well and replaced the original extruder with one that I redesigned and printed myself. I'm even using the original 0.3mm nozzle, printing very reliably at 0.15mm layer height. I do have a couple E3D and Mk7 parts that I intend on designing around, but I'm happy with what Iby MindRealm - Prusa i3 and variants
That is the A4982 stepper driver IC for your X-axis stepper motor. The cause is either the wiring to the stepper motor, or the motor itself. It is unfortunate that these are integrated into the controller. Many (most?) DIY printers are controlled by a combination of Arduino Mega 2560 and a RAMPS1.4 card, which has individual plug-in stepper drivers (including this exact chip!)... Any chance of aby MindRealm - General Mendel Topics
If the system is using Marlin, just change the following line in configuration.h #define INVERT_E0_DIR false (if it is true change to false, etc.) Or, just flip the stepper motor plug.by MindRealm - Reprappers
Oddly, it sounds like you may have two problems... First, the 110V/220V switch on the power supply should adjust it so that it accepts different input voltages without damaging it. Having switched to 220V and plugged into 110V should not damage it, but instead is should have put out less than 12V (if anything at all). Conversely, switching it to 110V and plugging it into 220V will cause problemby MindRealm - General Mendel Topics
Here's what I would do: 1) Reverse the servo plug and see if it works (reversed polarity will not hurt the servo or the RAMPS board) 2) Make sure the servo is plugged into the pins your are addressing in your command: The pins closest to the reset button is for servo 0, then 1, 2, 3 (if properly set up in Marlin...) 3) Try the command with the other servo addresses (M280 P1 S90, etc) in case theby MindRealm - RAMPS Electronics
Can you take a photo of the extended z-probe (not triggered)? Also, your print bed may be bowed or warped when it is heated. You can check this by heating the bed and using a ruler or other known straight edge to check the flatness of the heated surface. Just place it on edge diagonally and see if you can slide a piece of paper (post-it note, etc.) under any portion of the edge, then try the othby MindRealm - General
QuoteNow, the corners are lower than the middle of the bed. When I print, the hotend isn't touching the glass plate, so there is no adhesion and the prints curl up etc. So, your Y-axis components are (from the top down): > Glass > Heated Bed > Aluminum Spacers > Aluminum Y-Carriage Right? QuoteIsn't that the point of having an autobed leveling system? Sort of... You need to haby MindRealm - Prusa i3 and variants
You need a bracket, like pictured below...by MindRealm - Prusa i3 and variants
I'm also using an i3. I own a FolgerTech Prusa i3 with a 6mm plexi frame, which can easily lose the perpendicular relationship between the Y and Z axes. to illustrate this, just grab the top of your frame and note how easily it moves backward and forward without the base leaving the table... The i2 is MUCH more reliable in this regard, but isn't as light due to the extensive use of threaded rod.by MindRealm - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi! I also have a FolgerTech Prusa i3 (plexi model) and have been very happy with its performance. Please reply with your configuration.h file (or paste the text inside a code box (fifth button from the right on the toolbar above your reply message...) and I'll take a look. A couple bits of wisdom regarding eliminating the heated bed springs: - If you're not using a VERY rigid Y-carriage, theby MindRealm - Prusa i3 and variants
I highly suggest insulating the hot end block. This will minimize radiated heat from rising (and will prevent burning your fingers to a crisp)... Keeping the heat below the red line is the goal. The heat sink that is build into the E3D hot end is to cool the filament tube, not the hot end. The problem you're having is due to the heat rising too far up the tube, causing the filament to melt atby MindRealm - General