Show all posts by user

Re: What made you go with a Duet/RepRap vs the others? - 5 years ago

I chose the duet 2 wifi for a number of reasons: The board has good thermal properties for the integrated stepper motor controllers Has huge expansion capabilities which was important for me because I like to be able to design and build my own 3D printer. Allowing me to add any feature that I could foresee at the time. it has fan connectors capable of 25KHz PWM (or even higher), which is inaudib

Re: how long does it take your printer heated bed to heat up? - 5 years ago

My 330x330x6mm tooling plate with 300x300mm silicone 750W AC heater pad takes about 3-4 minutes to get from 20 degrees up to 105*C. I sometimes use fans to blow over the heated bed to heat the enclosure up a bit, so that takes slightly longer. There's no insulation under the silicone pad, so it may get faster if I do.

Re: Speeding up servo pen up/pen down on pen plotter - 5 years ago

Ecellent! Looks great! One thing though the toolpaths don't seem to be very efficient to me, a lot of pen up/down movement that doesn't seem necessary to me. Maybe you can join paths so it can draw faster?

Re: Need a very flexible part printed - 5 years ago

Very interesting, could you show us the dispenser? What type of silicone do you use and where do you get it? Do you have to use one time use kits or are you able to reseal the dispenser for later use?

Re: GCode Laser offset - how? - 5 years ago

Alternatively you can set the offset right after homing: G28 G92 Y-70 Now when moving to 0 the laser should point at the corner instead of the nozzle. That's not always what you want though. I setup the material on the buildplate, then set the laser to its minimum intensity, point it at the center or front-left corner, depending on the origin set in the cam software. The material can't always be

Re: Cura setting for layer height. - 5 years ago

I'm not sure you understand what the nozzle setting is for. If your actual nozzle in the heater block is 0.4 or 0.5mm, you need to set the same value in the slicer for it to calculate the correct amount of filament to be extruded, together with the layer height and extrusion width (which is usually best left at default) filament diameter and multiplier. Any deviation is more likely to be a physic

Re: What do you think about this spindle? - 5 years ago

Both are handtools which may not have the run out precision you're looking for. I'd get a 500W engraving/cnc spindle with ER11 collets. Aliexpres sells them for less than 100 euros. The collets are crap, you can easily replace them with better quality ones. These run a lot quieter too compared to hand tools. You usually don't need more than 12000 rpm. These are easier to mount too. I've gone fo

Re: Feedrate/Flowrate and steps per unit - 5 years ago

3. It could be anything. To home in on the problem, document the problem and post a new topic describing the problem, 3d printer, configuration and slicer settings.

Re: Can you help me identify the artifacts in my prints. - 5 years ago

Maybe the current is still too high, did you try lower like 300 to 500mA or does it skip? It could be that the stepper motors step too aggressively and wobble around after doing a full steps worth. Mine does this too to some extend but not nearly as pronounced, and I'm using NEMA23 steppers. It could be the momentum of the mass. Another possibility is that toothed pulleys may give an uneven moti

Re: Cura setting for layer height. - 5 years ago

If it doesn't appear in the device manager as COM1, it may be in unknown devices and requires a driver. If there's nothing there either you may have a damaged the Arduino. Also try a different usb port or a different laptop/PC. You still use .04 and .05 instead of .4 and .5, if you've got that filled in in the slicer it will go wrong when slicing/printing. filament that's not going straight down

Re: Speeding up servo pen up/pen down on pen plotter - 5 years ago

Nice plotter! I think there should be a servo delay setting, there was one for a deploy and retract of a servo bed probe. It could be set in milliseconds. Yep, found it, SERVO_DELAY in configuration.h. default value is 300ms. So for deploy and retract together is 600ms. You can try something like 50ms and see if that leaves a mark on the paper, a dot means too long and a line too short.

Re: Filament constantly gets stuck in a nozzle - 5 years ago

Irfz44 should work, the irlb8743 would be even better. Mosfets often fail open. I would also replace the burnt screw terminal. Any resistance in such terminals can cause a buildup of heat. Especially if its charred. Yep that should do the trick, unless the mcu is damaged. Check if the gate is shorted to drain or source.

Re: Filament constantly gets stuck in a nozzle - 5 years ago

A smoking mosfet is deginitely not good, no it shouldn't need a heatsink unless a non logic level mosfet is used. The heat disdipation is a lot higher. If you've dome (de)soldering skills you could try to replace it. Please pay close attentiin to the pinout! If the filament gets grinded up by the hobbed bolt, try loosen the tension. Toothmarks are ok but the fikament shouldn't be deformed otherw

Re: Cura setting for layer height. - 5 years ago

Check the device manager if the device is recognized or listed as unknown device. If the latter, try to find ender3 usb driver. If nothing is shown, see if you're supplying power to the 3d printer, check/replace usb cable or maybe the controller has died. You probably try to use the liad gcode function in cura. You need to use load object or something to that effect. Many slicers use a + symbol

Re: Filament constantly gets stuck in a nozzle - 5 years ago

Does the extruder motor skip steps or does the filament squeeze out of the top of the heater block? Try increasing motor current, or tighten the heater block or replace it, ie with an e3d v6. It could also be that the heat break needs cooling. I never needed it with the j head though.

Re: Thermal expansion - 5 years ago

You're right,the bed is fine. I've adjusted the frame to be more square, it's now within + or - 0.03mm flat according to the dial indicator. Wow, that's a serious burn mark there. Did the adhesive burn away too and released it from the heater pad? Maybe clamping it with another insulating material would help? Will do, I've found silicone kit that's capable of handling 1300 degrees C, that sh

Re: How to add extruder to Rambo Mini - 5 years ago

Good point! Probably you can tap that from any existing motor enable pin.

Re: CNC Spindle - 5 years ago

It depends on what you expect the machine to do. 200W is not much more powerful than a Dremel tool, which is 135W. You'll be able to mill out stuff with a 3mm or 1/8" end mills with a depth of cut (doc) of about 1-2mm depending how hard the wood is, at about 300mm/min and how sharp the end mills. I went with a 1.5kW spindle, it can easily plane a piece of fresh oak wood with a 16mm planing bit at

Re: How to add extruder to Rambo Mini - 5 years ago

I don't have one but looking at the specs you'll need: 2 pins for a stepper stick dir and step signals for E2 (the second expansion port may provide this, but you probably loose sd or lcd support, or use max end stop pins, you can make do with soft end stops, software based) 1 pin for controlling the heater cartridge and an external MOSFET board that can handle at least 50 watts. Something like

Re: Thermal expansion - 5 years ago

I don't remember what adhesive was on, I know it was 3M. I've followed the included instruction except the sealing silicone. I'm not sure yet what silicone is suitable and it wasn't clear as to the reason behind sealing it. I noticed that the smell was still very strong of the adhesives of the silicone heater, it's now off gassed I guess, the smell is less. I can imagine that some of that off gas

Re: Thermal expansion - 5 years ago

Thanks for your comments digital_dentist, much appreciated! There were made at the exact same coordinates. The certificate of inspection can be found here. TLDR: well within 0.01mm as I read it: The fans were to test if the warp was due to the support structure or the heated bed itself. I've seen no bubbles under the buildtak surface, though it's opaque black, no bulging can be seen nor doe

Thermal expansion - 5 years ago

I've been building on and off the last couple of months on my NFAN DIY corexy 3D printer build and run into some unexpected behavior. I've now changed the bed (consisting of C250 EN AC 5083 Toolingplate Elox 6mm thick) mount from shims to kinematic as per the_digital_dentists design, with a few tweaks of my own for mounting it. For now I haven't installed the springs to keep the bed down on t

Re: AC vs DC Keenovo heated Beds - 5 years ago

For me the the advantage to use a smaller PSU for the electronics so that you can use a smaller fanless PSU, and the quick heat up times with a 300x300x6mm tooling plate were the biggest factors. It's probably more energy efficient since there's no PSU between the heater and mains. I've mounted a couple of fans in the enclosure at the top that blows the air around. Just before the print I can hea

Re: Hot End won't turn on ?? - 5 years ago

You could remove the fan and put it on a constant 12V supply (or use a manual pwm controller) and use the second terminal to print. Or swap the pin assignment and you can at least start printing until the issue is resolved. It sounds to me it's a firmware issue. Or something is wrong in the gcode used to turn the hot end on or something. Maybe there's a setting to first enable the hot end before

Re: Hot End won't turn on ?? - 5 years ago

When you use a digital volt meter at the hot end terminal, do you see 12V when the hotend is commanded to turn on without the heater connected? Is the hotend in working order, no short circuits? Is there a second extruder heater connector, did you try that? Check if the function isn't swapped between hot end 1 and hot end 2. Did you check the 12v psu, is there a fuse, is it seated ok and still

Re: Cura setting for layer height. - 5 years ago

You say 0.04 nozzle, I assume you mean 0.4? If you did the same with layer height, at 0.02 or something, I can understand why the z may not be moving...

Re: ALL pictures rejected as TOO large!!! - 5 years ago

I use ifran view batch function to reduce the images in a folder. It's quick and easy to use: Open irfan view, Open an image in irfan view, hit ctrl+r to open the resample window, here you can set the 'resample, better quality' setting to lanczos. close this screen. Hit the b key to open the batch processing function. Select JPG as image format and click options. I usually use 95 as quality set

Re: 3DTouch deploys too soon after probe - 5 years ago

It's only possible to change the behaviour of the G28 and G29 homing and levelling routines by changing the source code. I did something like that with a servo probe that retracted before the z axis lifted up a bit, making the probe bump into the bed. My change was for an older version on marlin though, and I've scrapped the i3 clone 3D printer and build a corexy that doesn't need levelling (usin

Re: Spacing between shells - 5 years ago

Well, it depends...

Re: 3DTouch deploys too soon after probe - 5 years ago