I'm not sure what's happening here. My first inclination is that something is wrong with the filament. It is 3-5 years old and has not been sealed. It's my last roll of ABS. In a nutshell, the laminations do not adhere. It will print solid perimeters. Eventually one of them cracks apart and curls upward. I'm showing two different pieces with this post. One is still being printed. The other two aby dazed.dnc - Printing
I never did isolate for sure if it was a feedrate or huge step count problem. Sometimes it appeared to lock up when taking long moves. Other times it seemed to be related to the z axis motion. I just got past it by changing my microstep settings. Back when I used 1/16 on everything, either my feedrates were too high or the number of steps caused an integer overflow or something to that effect. Iby dazed.dnc - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Happened to see this thread a bit late I'm afraid... I never really understood why the optos went that design path. Considering every printer I've ever scrapped had 4 pin optocouples, this seemed like a really odd part to source. I built my own opto endstops for my makerbot using 4 pin optos (just generic things salvaged from printers) and a few SMT resistors. CDrom drives, printers, and basicaby dazed.dnc - Controllers
I did a bit of work to the wiki page page. It now has pictures to help describe practically every step. I broke it down a little differently too. Hopefully the new information and layout are more concise and informative. I also corrected a mistake in the schematic. While the circuit boards themselves were correct, when I drew the schematic I had a couple of leads switched around. I didn't thinkby dazed.dnc - For Sale
To do the shutdown thing would require changing the code for the printing application so that you knew when the print was finished. This being a tool-chain dependent change, you should send a feature request to the relevant developer groups. However, simply keeping the PC awake can be done with a (mostly) tool chain independent script. You just have to change the command that launches your prinby dazed.dnc - General
I know you can change the power settings to stop your PC from going into sleep mode/hibernation, but sometimes I forget to turn off my PC before leaving to go somewhere. I also like to leave it on at night to do long downloads. Having it shut off when there is no activity comes in handy once in a while. When I'm printing though, sleep mode stops the print. I had thought about installing somethinby dazed.dnc - General
I have assembled ten stepper drivers for reprap/makerbot electronics based around the Polulu stepper drivers. I have enough inventory for 50 units in all, but they are not all assembled. Gen3 users may plug in the standard 10 pin header plug. End stops are plugged in via 0.1 inch header pins. Many users seem to prefer the smaller plugs, but if you are still using the cat5e cables, the kit includby dazed.dnc - For Sale
Tom Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Does anyone have photos of how to connect the oak > block to the extruder body on the TechZone Wade's > extruder? > > This has me completely baffled! I would recommend getting another hot end, especially if you want to print with ABS. Barrels for aging some alcoholic drinks are toasted at around 230c, which is pby dazed.dnc - General Mendel Topics
jgilmore Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I thought that the "cannonical" way do adjust a > temp table for more accuracy in the range you're > interested in was to generate a table with many > more entries than you really need (say, 50) and > then delete most of them. You can delete the > almost all of the ones that are low (say, <150C) > anby dazed.dnc - Reprappers
This is an alternative to the python script, since some users (myself included) had trouble running it. I blended some of the features/tactics in thermistors_rev1.xls with the Python script and added my own two cents as well. If your firmware supports two different thermistors (one for the extruder and another for the heated build plate), it will export two tables for you. If it doesn't just diby dazed.dnc - Reprappers
Jim Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > It created a > huge 68mb g-code file. My biggest Gcode is 18mb. I think one of them even fills 3/4 of the build plate. If you look at each layer slice, do you see anything out of the ordinary? Like printing in spaces that should be empty and not printing where it should be filled? One of the first prints I tried was aby dazed.dnc - General
I would suggest putting a small radius in the plastic parts to make sure that the rod doesn't slip down the axis. Maybe you can clamp it tight enough that it won't be a problem, but a radius to hold it in place would guarantee that it doesn't move as the belt jerks it back and forth. If you are relying on the build plate itself as a structural component, I would think that would be enough to keeby dazed.dnc - General Mendel Topics
GIJED Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I got my Techzone LC kit about 2 months ago. The > actual 'building' was a breeze, but the extruder > controller and motherboard are absolute shit. The > motherboard works when it feels like it, the > extruder controller wont do anything. Everyone > seems to have their own opinion on which > combination ofby dazed.dnc - General Mendel Topics
end.gcode is only added to the end of the print. There will be some extrusion starts/stops within the layers where this will not work, but if you want to try something like this use home.gcode instead. Click the "home" button and enable homing. Whatever you put in the file will now be added between each layer change. It would be more of a nuisance to adjust and more complicated to do, but maybeby dazed.dnc - Skeinforge
If I turn my mendel on its side, the carriage will move under its own weight - even with the belt and motor attached. With no belt on, if my table is not level, the carriage will naturally roll to one side. I think my scales are only sensitive to 0.5lbs or more, but I didn't even get a reading out of it when I tried to test the force required. Do you have any slack at all in the belt? Maybe youby dazed.dnc - General
> Will be using Gen 6 electronics and standard > firmware, and NEMA 17 motors (assuming the Gen 6 > will struggle with larger 23 motors...?) A while back I saw a design for a nema23 stepper extruder. Couldn't tell you what he was using to drive it though. The amp load of the motor will be what matters more than anything. I'm assuming the gen6 drivers are bipolar only just like the otherby dazed.dnc - General
The X axis belt wraps around four bearings with fender washers serving as flanges. Did you use three washers or just two as spacers between the big fender washers and the bearing? If you only used two washers, the fender washers will be too close together and they will pinch down of the belt. Maybe this is the source of your friction? Since you say it moves fine without the belt attached, the onby dazed.dnc - General
AgeingHippy: If you checked the diameter before use, you should see that it is closer to 3.35 mm. With the barrel ID at something like 2.99 mm, the PTFE is drilled out larger. I think he based his dimensions off of the official build spec though and they do work as long as the PTFE does not expand. If your ID is closer to 4mm, then I think it is more likely that your PTFE wasn't constrained wellby dazed.dnc - General
rhmorrison: I didn't know about the replace file before doing the firmware trick. I'm sure I was just doing something wrong. Maybe I had it in the wrong place or something, but it wouldn't replace the M101/M103. I tried a couple of times to get it to work, then I just decided to keep using the solution that was already working for me. AgingHippy: The problem with using M109 mid build is that itby dazed.dnc - Skeinforge
What are these lines supposed to be doing? M115 S60.0 M116 S30.0 M117 S0.0 According to the Gcode list, these should not have S parameters. Unexpected parameters might mess up the Gcode parsing. If it does, that could explain your problem. I don't honestly expect this to fix it, but I see that your gcode still has the old M103/M101 extruder commands. When you use the host to make Gcode, I donby dazed.dnc - Skeinforge
Can you extract the Gcode for a couple of layers out of your file?by dazed.dnc - Skeinforge
You can use PTFE, but it has to be very well constrained and cannot be used as a load-bearing component. As you have seen, it will get soft when heated and doesn't hold its shape on its own. If you look at an MK4 extruder on a makerbot, you'll see that they use a washer and nut on the barrel. They then use two bolts to hold the washer. All of this is done to support the barrel when trying to pusby dazed.dnc - General
If you have not adjusted the variable resistor, you might not be driving the motor with enough power. If it vibrates no mater what setting you use, one of the motor coils may be in reverse polarity from the other. Lets say you have one coil connected to A and B and another connected to C and D (AB CD). Try using BA CD or AB DC instead.by dazed.dnc - Skeinforge
Your board has two LEDs near the motor output that should flash as the output switches. If one or the other or both don't flash, it may indicate a damaged stepper driver chip. Maybe the motor is wired wrong? IE: maybe one coil has reversed polarity? I think that would cause more of a vibration between two magnetic poles rather than just taking one step, but it might be worth a check. Another gby dazed.dnc - RAMPS Electronics
Are you sure the step and direction pins are not crossed up? You might also try inverting the enable pin in the firmware. Looks like the v1.2 stepper driver enable pin works differently from the normal polulu boards. You have to set the enable pin "high" or "on" in order to enable the stepper motor outputs. With the polulu drivers, it has to be "low" to enable the outputs. Any stepper driver thaby dazed.dnc - RAMPS Electronics
Blowing on the whole printer may cause shrinkage and layer adhesion problems as the part you are printing cools - especially for larger parts. You might want to consider using heat-resistant shields or duct work of some kind to guide the airflow over the extruder cold end rather than blowing on the whole printer. Of course, this could be a suitable test of whether or not the concept will help beby dazed.dnc - General
I have been working on a similar concept. My first design (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4944) was very open and light, but not so strong. It kept my insulator a bit cooler, but over time the front part began warping and it didn't hold the axis as well. I'm now testing a more heavy-duty design. I have had to doctor several places because it didn't quite fit right and two of the posts broke duby dazed.dnc - General Mendel Topics
Did you update from an older version? I ran into a similar problem where I would disable "tower" and skeinforge kept using it. At the suggestion of another forum member, I backed up my settings and removed all the old stuff under "\.skeinforge". After that, I was able to disable "tower". Maybe your new stretch settings are not having an effect for the same reason?by dazed.dnc - Skeinforge
I'm using acceleration and skeinforge 39. Seems to be working ok for me. It doesn't seem to change speed a lot while printing, so maybe it isn't making enough of a difference to matter or maybe skeinforge doesn't produce Gcode in a way that acceleration actually gets used? The only time I notice acceleration is when it goes to home between layers, which is done by a few lines of hand written Gcodby dazed.dnc - Reprappers
I don't think it has to be anything special. I'm using a sheet that was removed from an old office copier and cut down to an appropriate size. Your heat bed should only need to run at 110C tops. Most people seem to run more in the 70-100 range. If you use a heat spreader (aluminum plate) I wouldn't expect the glass to crack or anything from uneven heat and it won't come anywhere near melting at tby dazed.dnc - General