QuoteSupraGuy If you do this, you should probably use a sheet of aluminum or something with good thermal conductivity as a bed. The reason being that the gaps between the actual heated spots on the heatbeds is large enough to cause discrepancies in how the bed reacts. For the thermistors, I would use 4, which can be connected using a series/parallel configuration which will average out the resulby silver2633 - Reprappers
provided you do not exceed the current limit for power supply and switching mosfet you could put all the heaters in parallel. you should only connect one of the thermistors.by silver2633 - Reprappers
the flashing part is done by avrdude which I believe can run on a rasberry pi. You just need to obtain the .hex file of the firmware.by silver2633 - Reprappers
Sorry if you already checked this, but did you set the nozzle size properly in the software? Also , is your extruder motor current set appropriately? Is the spring or whatever presses the filament on the extruder gear actually tensioned? Set the extruder to feed 10mm and measure it with a ruler. Also hold the filament with your hand and see how hard the motor can pull.by silver2633 - Printing
perhaps it is caused by the line "G1 Z5 F5000 ; lift nozzle" in slicer; I didn't understand what it did at the time but it makes even less sense now xD I removed it because it made a lot of noise, from the F5000 i would guess. Maybe it intends shakes the z backlash springs loose or something. (unlikely)by silver2633 - Reprappers
Hi, i'll try to help with some if your issues. The z calibration relies on the z axis switch to get the correct height. That switch should have some manual way of adjustment which you have to set. The nozzle height is very important because the first layer has to stick to the bed or the print fails, like it is happening in your case because the nozzle is too high. The printer requires a driver,by silver2633 - Reprappers