ye the thermistor is the glass one but its inside the metal tube. should i take the thermistor out of the metal tube and kapton tape it to the block?by white - Reprappers
the thicker red wires are the heater. and the metal thing sticking out is the thermistor its slightly burnt because i overdid with the heatshrink abit ( the metal thing came with the kit do you recommend i should change the thermistor setup? ) so i just ordered these heaters i cant believe i haven't noticed its 24v but thanks for pointing that out guys and thanks alot guys for the help andby white - Reprappers
Quoteblabbersnitch Those terminations to the board look fine. It's also interesting to see the MOSFETs have heatsinks on them, I haven't seen that before... but I digress. 15.3 ohms seems too high. I only have my i3 for comparison, but my heater is a 5.6 ohm resistor. That's 25 watts at 12V. 15 ohms generates less than 10 watts. When you measured the resistance, was it when the temperature was dby white - Reprappers
Quotetadawson Very good, just being certain . . . if you see voltage between the two D10 terminals, and have no heat, it isn't the board . . . -Tim ok great im curtain it isnt the board now should i change the heater ( although i did change it recently ) ? , or do you think its a problem with the thermistor ( although the temp is falling gradually ) ? , maybe my connection is bad? ( i'll attby white - Reprappers
im not putting my black lead on the power supply its in the D10 negative terminalby white - Reprappers
and i changed the heater once and it doesnt seam to make a difference ( i order 2 heaters in one pack and im using these , so maybe they are broken? ) ohh and the MOSFET i didnt solder nor crimpled it i just bought the ramps board ready so im not sure what they did on it. but it doesnt seam to wiggle or move when its heated so i think its goodby white - Reprappers
Quoteblabbersnitch I still think it's the heater (and so, I think, do most trying to help). With power off, measure the resistance across the terminals of D10. This is the value of the resistor that is your heater. It should be five ohms give or take an ohm or two (mine is closer to six). Then print your cube, and when you see the temperature dropping, remove power and quickly take the same measby white - Reprappers
Quotetadawson The voltage being low by .13v will not be a problem - that is trivial, and likely due to the losd from the bed heater (which shuts off on reset). If you are seeing power on the terminals to the hot end, and it appears to stop heating, then one of two things can be going on: Either it's still hot, and the reading is wrong, or there is a fault in the heater or it's wiring. Have youby white - Reprappers
the wierd part is all 3 pins ( D10 D9 D8 ) are having a shortage in the volts they all read 11.87v when the fail happens but when i restart everything they all read a perfect 12v. i have no clue what to do , is it a problem with the board should i change it? or perhaps the power supply , no clue really!by white - Reprappers
its connected with solderingby white - Reprappers
i tried to change the heater wires and it didnt work im thinking the problem is from the shortage of the volts? its 11.87v when the heat starts going down so what should i do next? any suggestions ?by white - Reprappers
Quotethe_digital_dentist When the extruder stops heating, does the machine stop or just keep going as if there is nothing wrong? Did you also check connections to the heater? If the thermistor failed you'd see an error message on the LCD (if you have one), but an open heater wire wouldn't show up at all and the thing would keep trying to print while the extruder chewed a divot into the filamentby white - Reprappers
no i havent touched any endstops and i tried over and over and same problemby white - Reprappers
well the printer keeps on moving like nothing is wrong and the temp goes down gradually and when the temp started to go down i got my multimeter and checks the volts and it reads 11.89v wich is almost 12v so its good and the led for the extruder is on while the temp is going down.by white - Reprappers
hello guys , im having a a problem and was hoping if you could help me with it so im new to the 3d printer world and i finished assembling a prusa i3 i have a ramos 1.4 board and using pronterface and slic3r i finished calibration and everything and i started printing my first print (cube) it started printing perfectly then after the first couple of layers the extruder stopped heating for no reby white - Reprappers
thanks for your help. i've read you forum and couldn't find a solution really so i contacted the seller ( makergeeks.com ) and they shipped me a new RAMPS board for free , they do have great service. thanks alot guys for your help but this board is trouble!by white - General
hi thanks for the link , but that link is for a rostock and my printer is a prusa i3 would the board work? i coudnt find the firmware any help with that also? thanks alo for the help and i did find the wiring places from the link you provided thanks again!by white - General
hello everyone, i've ordered a prusa i3 kit from makergeeks and i have assembled everything besides the electronics, i couldnt find the circuit board they shipped and i dont know where everything should be connected to. i have a general idea on where everything should be but i have no idea the sequence of the colors (red blue green black) for the motors. if anyone could help me with the name ofby white - General