QuoteApple- Hey, everyone. My only problem I seem to be having with my printer now is that my Y-Axis motor grinds quite badly when printing. Here's a video. It should be quite clear when the grinding is happening. It is much louder in person. I can't think of any reason why this is happening. It is the biggest stepper motor, if that has anything to do with it. It doesn't have any effect on theby Vanbot - Reprappers
QuoteApple- Hey everyone! Extremely pleased to announce that I have solved my extruder issues! The issue was actually a loose screw on the gear inside the stepper motor. Here's a picture for a better look. Just gave it a nice tighten and everything is golden! Will still probably print a new extruder soon, though. It is a bit of a pain that that stepper shaft doesn't have a flat spot for thby Vanbot - Reprappers
QuoteNargousias Had my printer since last November... Still reading this thread.... and re-reading...... Yep. While there is a ton of information in this thread, the utter lack of organization makes it less useful than it could be. Sometimes it's like asking someone where the gas cap release button is on your new car and being handed the service manual complete with instructions on how to instaby Vanbot - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotethetazzbot QuoteVanbot Why is three linear bearings better than four? I've seen this said before...something about alignment? 4 vs 3 bearings So from that thread, some people aren't convinced three is superior. But for those who are convinced, it seem it's because it's easier to align three bearings?by Vanbot - Reprappers
QuoteTenny QuoteVanbot Yep. Once again this is something the Folger manual gets wrong. Looks like they haven't fixed it in the manual for the new printer. Just flip the motor cable where it plugs into the RAMPS. You can also do it in firmware but this is easier. Turn off power to the board first. Yeah I tried this and it's still not working properly. It would just go the opposite way of the endby Vanbot - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotedombaud Bonjour Merci à tous pour m'aider dans mon projet. Dominique Bonjour Dom. Votre projet, c'est chouette. La premiere fois que j'ai vu quelqu'un tente trois extrudeurs. Alors, vous avez trouvé que Marlin n'a pas la capacité de faire marcher plus que deux? J'aime aussi votre "Jardin du vent lumineux". Il est possible qu'il y a un forum de discussion en francais. Avez-vous cherby Vanbot - Reprappers
QuoteTenny I just realized all my prints are backwards as far as the x-axis. I think it was designed to have the limit switch on the right (when looking towards the front of the printer) as that stepper motor wire is backwards compared to the rest. Still though all prints are backwards which presents a problem... Not sure if I invert the x in the printer software will fix it? Don't really want tby Vanbot - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotedombaud Bonjour à tous J'ai fabriqué mon imprimante sur la base de la K8200, mais maintenant que j'ai monté les 3 extrudeuses je n'arrive pas à programmer Marlin. La carte de contrôle et Rumba, driver 8825, Marlin V1,Repetier 0.95f. Je vous remercie d'avance, Bonjour. Est-ce que vous voulez dire que vous n'êtes pas capable de programmer Marlin ou qu'il y a une probleme quand vous essayezby Vanbot - Reprappers
Quotethetazzbot I documented my approach to hardening the Prusa i3 in an article on my site. For any Prusa builders out there, this is good info. If you have any suggestions for additions please post them here! In summary: Constrain the X axis bearings in their printed-part sleeves Constrain the Z axis captured nut that rides in the X axis motor and idler parts Replace the linear bearings withby Vanbot - Reprappers
QuoteApple- Is there any reason my heated bed takes forever to heat up? Like, it physically feels like it gets hot very fast, but the readings take forever to go up. Possibly a misplaced thermistor I assume. What's a long time? Mine takes a couple of minutes to get to 65 degrees. You've got it wired correctly? Both +ve tabs are connected? Both halves of the bed heat up?by Vanbot - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotekrwynn Follow this step by step and it will work. At least it did for me first try. Not sure how much you have changed in you configuration.h file so you may want to start with a fresh copy. Oh and cover the exposed pins on the LCD with Kapton or electrical tape so you dont accidently short something out. 3D printing guides - Setting up a LCD and SD card controller panel I followed thisby Vanbot - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteshepp I have a little bit, but need the proper con h settings, I be tried a lot of different things in config only to get a blue screen Yes you'd have to change all the settings in the newer version of Marlin to match what's in your Folger version. Have you tried swapping the two cables around? I think if you have them backwards it will show a blank display.by Vanbot - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteshepp I am still having problems with the full lcd controller being recognized. It turns on but all I get is a blue screen with no controls, need help with this. I have so much to print for my quads thats its ridiculous. I had a lot of problems getting mine to work. I think the Marlin firmware as provided by Folger will not work with the hardware (LCD) as provided by Folger. The only way Iby Vanbot - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteDnixon123 I got my end stops working, I reset the x end stop pins to the z max end stop pins in marlin. The printer is now working and I'm getting ready to start my first print! Hope it goes well.by Vanbot - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemarkts I'm expecting my printer will be here by Wednesday and I can begin the build! Can you recommend a thickness/type of 8x8 glass to get from Lowes/Home Depot? I've read about people having problems with some of them cracking depending on what you get. I got a box of 6 polished edge, 12" x 12" 3 mm mirror tiles at Home Depot for $13 CAD. Can't beat that price and they seem more thanby Vanbot - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemottihoresh Yea I think i got those, wasn't sure what there were used for. Might be a good idea to add it to the guide. I will check it later tonight. Thanks again for the awesome kit! Yep I couldn't figure out how those springs were supposed to attach and the manual for the acrylic printer didn't have any info on that part. The manual for this build is looking much better than the previoby Vanbot - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteDnixon123 QuoteVanbot QuoteDnixon123 I'm having some serious trouble getting the printer homing configured. It's only the x-axis that I'm really having problems with. I followed the build and configuration instructions from Folger Tech so I have my x end stop to the right and I have my marlin and repetier host set how they recommended. Without changing anything, the x-carriage slides to theby Vanbot - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteDnixon123 I'm having some serious trouble getting the printer homing configured. It's only the x-axis that I'm really having problems with. I followed the build and configuration instructions from Folger Tech so I have my x end stop to the right and I have my marlin and repetier host set how they recommended. Without changing anything, the x-carriage slides to the left but doesn't stop at thby Vanbot - Prusa i3 and variants
Definitely do a search on the forum here for the names of any kit suppliers you are considering. I got mine from Folger a couple of months ago. At the time they said the lead time to ship was 10 days. Three weeks later they still hadn't shipped and it ended up taking a full month for mine to get to me. And while you can get a more or less functional printer from the cheaper suppliers you'll probaby Vanbot - Reprappers
Quotewidespreaddeadhead Tom's guide on youtube got me rolling pretty quickly, but I'm pretty familiar with Raspberry Pi so as long as you can get the image on the MicroSD and boot it up, the rest is just getting the printer settings correct. The European girl who programs it updates it with new features from time to time. I'd recommend using the ethernet vs wifi, especially if you have a PiCam hby Vanbot - Reprappers
I was planning on greasing mine but then realised that will prevent the balls in the bearing from spinning freely. I used some light oil meant for skate bearings and it has made them much quieter. Tinkerine uses brass bushings in some spots on its printers. Bushings require regular lubrication but they also seem to be much quieter and, on the Tinkerine anyway, certainly don't negatively affect peby Vanbot - Reprappers
QuoteDnixon123 I just got the rev B kit and I'm having trouble with the end stop on the y axis. There are no bearing holders for the switch to contact like in the rev A kit. I can't seem to figure out a way to mount them, how did you guys do it? Use the Y ends top holder that Steve suggests and then I also put one of the big springy paper clips that holds my glass onto the heated bed so that itby Vanbot - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotewidespreaddeadhead Yup, there is a newer model out, the 2 B with 1GB RAM and quad core processor. Anyway, not trying to hijack this thread, but is anyone else using OctoPi with their 3d printer? I absolutely love it. I'd like to get my set up with OctoPi. Did you find a good guide for setting this up?by Vanbot - Reprappers
Can anyone else who uses Repetier comment? Does the Emerg button stop your prints immediately or no? I can actually hit the Emerg Stop button, disconnect Repetier from my printer, uplug the PSU, then plug it back in and whatever it was doing before I hit the Stop button it will just pick right up where it left off.by Vanbot - Reprappers
What filament are you using? If PLA then your temp seems really high. PLA is also brittle. Have you Googled "3D printing troubleshooting"? There are a lot of things that can cause any one issue.by Vanbot - Reprappers
When I first fired up my printer and for weeks after that, the emergency stop button in Repetier would, when clicked, cause the print to immediately stop and my PSU to immediately power down (stayed on but output was minimal). Now, for some reason, when I click it, the printer just keeps going for several more seconds. I usually have to click it twice to get any kind of halfway quick response froby Vanbot - Reprappers
QuoteCyBer Hey everyone, I am currently assembling a folger tech prusa kit and when I tried to manually extrude 50 cm of plastic to test the extruder, the motor seems to pull the filament in a little and then pull it out a little and it never grabs purchase of the filament or extrudes any. I was wondering if anyone knows how to fix this? Extruder motor is turning the wrong way? My Folger did. Reby Vanbot - Prusa i3 and variants
[email protected] Hi all, I got a problem connecting the RepRap discount Smart Controller LCD panel (from Folger) to my Folger Prusa i3 with RAMPS 1.4. I'm using old Marlin (form folger), checked configuration.h and everything is enabled for LCD panel there. When I plug in the adapter board into RAMPS, and turn the power on, nothing works - no LEDs light up on Arduino/RAMPS. This happensby Vanbot - Reprappers
Quotesaryn2 How tight does a y axis on printer frame have to be? When I tighten my printer the corners bow up. Y Axis carriage or frame? What part of the printer bows up? A photo would be helpful here.by Vanbot - Reprappers
Quotechromecarz00 Do you mean reverse them? They are plugged in where they were said to in the manual The slots for end stops on the RAMPS are arranged like this: Z MAX Z MIN YMAX Y MIN X MAX X MIN So the very bottom slot on RAMPS is for the X end stop if the actual end stop is in a Min position on the printer. Ditto for Y and Z. To get my printer to work right I had to plug my X end stop intoby Vanbot - Prusa i3 and variants