Solved the problem, thanks to some quick technical help from MKS The problem was that me slicer Simplfy3D was putting in an M105 command, cos I had ticked a box for it to do so. This was reporting back to the software the extruder temperature after each layer, this was causing the delay. for MKS support on this one.by wetsparks - Controllers
Right then, all is going well with the setup of me printer. Prints are good if not yet perfect, still coming to grips with tuning the Bowden feed system, never used this before ! One annoying problem |I'm having though. I have set up the MKS board with the TFT32 but am getting some strange goings on here. If I try to print from a Udrive or the SD card, the print runs for about 30 seconds and theby wetsparks - Controllers
Hi pierrelesek , As I said in my post above, I opted to fit mechanical end stops back on me printer and they work just fine. Never did bother to get to the bottom of the problem then with the opto stops.by wetsparks - Controllers
Hi, Question, Just setting up my Z probe. Has anyone got a set up using a Servo to deploy the probe on this system ?????by wetsparks - Controllers
Hi all, How strange, this board really doesn't like the opto end stops I've got. Changed them all to mechanical ones and it's working perfect. O well, at least I can now carry on with the set upby wetsparks - Controllers
Yep, that's set at 5v. Hope this ain't a duff boardby wetsparks - Controllers
Hi, Tried the edge firmware but no luck. One thing I have checked on is the state of the limit signal. Two points first, I am using optical limits and I have changed the settings over to the Y axis, just to confirm it wasn't a problem with the X axis. Using Simplify 3D to control the board (just in case there was a problem with the TFT) I have used the terminal in Audrino to send a M119 commandby wetsparks - Controllers
OK, had a thought and tried M119. It showed Y an Z end stops had 1s to them. So I have 'nc' outed these end stops for now, just in case this was the problem. No luck, the fault is still thereby wetsparks - Controllers
Thanks for you reply. Tried altering the config.txt as you suggest and while the TFT still works, the original problem is still thereby wetsparks - Controllers
Has anyone had this problem or got a solution? Just setting up my SBase 1.3 board, just working on the X axis ATM. After boot up the axis will move to the + or the - with commands from the TFT panel just fine. If I then issue an X Home command it will home as it should. Next I move it a few steps in the + direction and try to home it again and it wont. All I get is a beep sound and a small nudgby wetsparks - Controllers
Ahh thats great, thanks. At least now the calibration works, on the 1.1.5 version the cross just kept going around the screen and would not finalise!by wetsparks - Controllers
Hi All, I'm just about to 'upgrade' (I hope) my printer from Ramps to Smoothieware 32 bit. Iv'e got the MKS board from Aliexpress along with the TFT 32 display. One starting problem is that their web site says to upgrade the the firmware on the TFT with mkstft32.bin. Can I find this file on the MKS github, can I bugger. All the files there for the TFT are 28 not 32 and the latest version is 1.by wetsparks - Controllers
Quotethe_digital_dentist 1mm is too close to the bed- the plastic distorts from the heat. Calibration measurements should generally be done at least a few mm above the bed. It is critically important to do a complete calibration of the extruder before you try to calibrate the X and Y axes. Did you use the actual diameter of the filament when you sliced or use an extrusion multiplier based onby wetsparks - Reprappers
I don't know if its just the camera angle or not, but that bed does not look like its any where near level. The spring on the right hand side looks to be far more compressed than the one on the left. Have you leveled the bed ?by wetsparks - Reprappers
So, I've just finished a load of upgrades to me printer and decided to check the XY dimensional accuracy. I designed a simple 1 mm thick square measuring 100 x 100 mm OD with and internal square hole of 80 x 80 mm, that is 10 mm wide sides. On printing, with ABS, both the X and Y axis print to within 0.16 accuracy after cooling on the outer dimensions but, the inner dims are a good 2 mm smaller.by wetsparks - Reprappers
What version (Release Candidate) are you using of Marlin. I recently uploaded a version and found the same problem. I then went to the Git hub and uploaded the latest RC and all works problem free.by wetsparks - Reprappers
If you connect a wire between the Min Endstop pin and the ground, does that signal get through, M119. If not you have other problems, if so then your switching is not good enough. Personally I don't like the resistor voltage divider, you need to know the exact impedance of the sensor to calc out the R vales properly. What I did was to power up me sensor on the 12 volt rail, making sure the sensorby wetsparks - Reprappers
Cant remember where it is now, so Google for XY calibration, but there is a formula out there to help alter the steps numbers to correct for minor inaccuracy.by wetsparks - Reprappers
What is the drive setup on your Y axis?by wetsparks - Reprappers
In my experience a clicking extruder motor, where it extrudes in some areas of the bed and just clicks in others without extruding is more a sign of an uneven bed. The motor is clicking because it cant extrude any filament because the nozzle is too close to the bed. Try increasing your head gap by 0.1 or 2 to see if this makes any difference. The only other clicking I've had from a motor is whenby wetsparks - Reprappers
Thanks for the reply. As it happens the problem is sorted now, but the strange thing was that it had been working for months and then suddenly packed up. Got to think it's a glitch somewhere in the firmware, why? Well I have downloaded a more up to date version of Marlin and it worked perfectly. The only problem was that it was only set up for one extruder, as soon as you said 2 it failed to compby wetsparks - Reprappers
Ive just changed my timing belt pulleys on the X and Y to 16 tooth from 20 and the dam thing wont behave now. It's a Prusa with Ramps and Marlin. At the moment regardless of what i put in the config.h file, a 10mm movement signal equates to an actual move of just 8mm ish. This is the line of me config file: #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {400.00, 400.00, 4266.66,200, 200} // Ive evenby wetsparks - Reprappers
Hi all, Looking to upgrade me printer (Prusa-esk) and am going to build one of the Clough42 Itty Bitty Double FLEX V2 extruders. I would like to try and source any parts I need within the UK but have come across a problem with the hobbed bolts. The design calls for MakerFarm style bolts but I cant find any in the UK. Does anyone know of a UK supplier or comparable bolts to buy?by wetsparks - General
My printer is a Prusa I3 type of unit in a cube frame, using Ramps 1.4 and Marlin. It's been printing fine for months now, even upgraded the bed to a 5mm ally plate and a 240v heater via an SSR, man does that bed heat up quick. Also got auto leveling working and that made a nice improvement to me printing. Well out of the blue, all of a sudden on Friday evening my Z height and home offsets starby wetsparks - Reprappers
On the Ramps board the STP55NF06L. - MOSFET is rated to 60V, 55A. it comes in a TO-220 case. However you are running in the order of 16.6 amps through it and it will get very hot. Get a heat sink to fit on the TO-220 case and maybe a small fan for it as well. This is what I have done, after burning out one MOSFET As has been said, check the capacity of your PSU.by wetsparks - General
Thanks for the reply d-d, I have just completed the build of my new printer, a Prusa esk, reprap ish printer. Its a cube extrusion frame with twin Z motors and ramps 1.4. Oh and twin extruder. For the heated bed I've been using one of the Red Mk II hot beds with a glass plate on top, but have had nothing but problems getting the prints to stick, such an uneven heat distribution, even with a buckeby wetsparks - General
Whats the best/preferd method of heating the tooling plate?by wetsparks - General
I've tried all the check boxes in Simplify to no avail. Interesting though, I've just been repeating the exorcise using Lic3r and have exactly the same problem, so it must be something in Marlin. Now just in case it makes a difference, my home position is 240,0,0. That is the X parks to the left side. Wonder if that's causing the problem. Oh, the X is set for Max limit not Min.by wetsparks - Printing
Having some issue with me printing at the moment. If I send a Left handed print to the printer it prints out Right handed and vis a versa. I've tried altering the software, Simplify3D but without success. Is there a setting in Marlin that could be causing this problem?by wetsparks - Printing
Sorry, am I missing something here. Why dont you un-clamp the heater cartridge and un-screw the thermistor screw and remove it. No cables to twist around then as you remove the block ??by wetsparks - Developers