Planning on printing the Thingiverse T Rex skeleton. When I slicer a lot of the parts there are a number of unattached lines around the thin features that will just make a total mess of the part. Take a look at the attached image. Is there a way to remove these? I'm using Prusa slicer at the moment.by Andy1989 - Printing
Recently replaced the hot end on my ender 3, and had to replace the thermistor after damaging it. I found that the standard 1m thermistors sold everywhere are not long enough. Tried cutting and soldering in an extension, but struggled with thin wires, and the connections soon broke. Anyone know if you can get extension leads for these 2 pin jst-xh connectors, or any other more robust method ofby Andy1989 - General
Think ive just found at least part of the issue. I noticed the temp wasnt dropping below 50c even after it was left off for ages. Checked the voltage on the heater, and it was 3.3v. Is this a sign of a blown MOSFET? Im using a custom-designed hotend mount with the wires tucked into a small hidden channel, maybe the thermistor has shorted across the heater.... I'll pull it apart tomorrow.by Andy1989 - General
Ive just switch the stock hotend on my ender 3 to an e3d voncano. Just swapped the heater cartridge and thermistor, so no changes to the wiring at all. When I turn on the 24v supply the hotend immediately starts heating! It got to 300C before I noticed the smell the first time. Thankfully nothing seems to be damaged, but I cant figure out what's causing it. Any suggestions? I did have a thermby Andy1989 - General
Printermods have just released a kickstarter for a quick change tool head that does exactly what I'm looking for! I'm not convinced about the alignment system tho. Looks like it uses 4 tapered pins that will need very careful alignment to work properly. Misalignment of one will prevent it from connecting correctly. I'd rather see an e3d style kinamatic coupling that uses 3 points, rather than taby Andy1989 - General
The pogo pin connections look perfect! It's a 24v machine, so the heater will draw 1.7A max, so even the tiny little connectors like this have plenty of spare capacity. Could even use them in parallel if I want more capacity. I'm going to knock up a design where the hot end and fans are attached to a removable bracket, and all the electrical connection is dealt with using pogo pins. The Bowdeby Andy1989 - General
Just one that can be quickly changed manually. I just stumbled across this which l think could do part of the job.by Andy1989 - General
I'm looking for a quick change hot end so I can quickly switch between a standard and volcano V6 extruded. I'm using a Bowden setup. Anyone know if there is anything out there already before I embark on designing my own? I plan on pairing it with some sort of hotend probe similar to that on the lulzbot machines so the different hot end length can be automatically updated after a swap.by Andy1989 - General
Brilliant. Any idea when 2.03 will be available?by Andy1989 - General
Can you create things like if commands in reprap firmware macros? For example if use a sensor/switch to confirm a tool has been picked up successfully or not, and if not to either try again or stop the print.by Andy1989 - General
Currently planning 3d printer number 3, and i would like to try developing a tool changer. What would be the easier firmware and board combo for creating the custom command snippets for something like a tool change.by Andy1989 - General
Yep that's the one, and yes it will cut aluminium.... very slowly. I'm just using a Makita knockoff at the moment I found on ebay. So far I have only mocked it up on a scrap of MDF and run some test cuts in ply and aluminium. The accuracy wasn't great (My 20mm square came out at 19.6mm), but I just wanted to prove it was capable of cutting aluminium before building a new bench and spending moreby Andy1989 - CoreXY Machines
If you already have a 3D printer build an MPCNC and cut them yourself! That's what i'm doing! As far as I can see its a win win. I get a new cnc machine to play with, and a cool new printer with machined aluminium parts. I'm in UK too so if you want id be happy to cut some parts for you once the MPCNC is up and running. Iv done some test cuts in aluminium and it cuts well, just need to work on tby Andy1989 - CoreXY Machines
Sounds like there a few more people using RADDS than I previous thought. If i were to go down the RADDS route id have pretty much exactly the same setup as amigob, RADDS + Pi + Repetier firmware and server. If I were to go down the Duet route i could ditch the Pi as it has webcam support according to the website. The costs for each pretty much the same for each, around £120. At the moment imby Andy1989 - Reprappers
Thanks for the advice. Regarding the marks on the print surface I mentioned see the pic in link below. Im sure i found a webpage somewhere that sugests these are due to microstepping erros, but i cant find it again! Iv done a bit of reading today and based on the specs i like the sound of the RADDS board because, Supported by Repetier, so no change in firmware required. 24V support withby Andy1989 - Reprappers
I looking for some advice about 32bit electronics. I got a half built custom core xy machine that hopefully will be up and running by the end of the year. Its only a small machine, 200mm cubed build space, but based on what iv learned from running my prusa i3 for a few years I definitely want to go for 24V and 32bit electronics. With 12V I struggle to get the bed up to ABS temperate, and i beliby Andy1989 - Reprappers
If you want to check accuracy of calipers why not measure ground steel rods! Almost every printer has them, and even the really cheap and nasty ones should be ground to much less then 0.05mm tolerance. Much better than drill bits.by Andy1989 - General
PLA straight onto glass, that's the first iv heard of that. Will give it a go. When bed temp do you use?by Andy1989 - General
As promised some images,by Andy1989 - General
So iv been printing with my E3D volcano 0.8mm nozzle for months with no problems. Been using 0.5mm layers, E3D PLA, extruder temp 210, bed is float glass covered with watered down PVA heated to 55. Last night I dropped layer height to 0.25mm just to see what happened, and used 70% hex infill for strength, and the result were awesome. Great quality, and much faster than my other 0.4mm nozzle. Theby Andy1989 - General
I was just think about 24v after I posted this. I will need a new power supply for this printer anyway so I I think 24v is defiantly the way to go. Regarding glass I never though about glass ontop of cast aluminum! The reason I initially dismissed glass was just because on my prusa everytime I remove and replace it the level gets thrown off because it is only clipped to the flexible heated bed. Iby Andy1989 - Reprappers
So as the subject suggests, its time for a new printer! If your looking for a printer made from flimsy printed parts and steel rods this page aint for you! If your after something a little stronger with aluminium brackets that anyone with a pillar drill and hand tools can make, then this might the one for you! Iv had a box prusa i3 for about 3 years now and my issue with it is the axis's are waby Andy1989 - Reprappers
Thanks DC42 The connector on your second pic looks like the sort of thing Im after. Is that one of the mico fit 3.0 connectors? I find the number of molex connectors pretty baffling!by Andy1989 - Reprappers
Thanks DC42 The connector on your second pic looks like the sort of thing Im after. Is that one of the mico fit 3.0 connectors? I find the number of molex connectors pretty baffling!by Andy1989 - Reprappers
I just ordered my new E3D volcano and I want to add some quick change electrical connectors so I can swap extruders easily. Id like to put heater, PT100 temp sensor, extruder fan, and print fan all in one connection. Thats 8 pins in total. Initial thoughts are a D sub connector, but they look quite big and bulky. What are other people using for their quick change extruder connectors?by Andy1989 - Reprappers
Just wondering if any one has used the new E3D lite? Im tempted to get a couple for my dual extrude upgrade, the only thing that is putting me off is the given maximum extrusions on the E3D website. Apparently it is only capable of upto 50mm/sec, whereas the normal is 100mm/sec. I know with my print settings I can achieve a flow rate of around 10mm3/sec extruding in mid air with a normal E3D V6,by Andy1989 - Reprappers
I been printing for about 2 years now, and been using some of the cheaper filaments. Stuff like We do 3D printing and flyde filaments. Thinking of trying out some of the more expensive stuff, ColorFabb and E3D premium. Has anyone done any back to back comparisons of cheap vs expensive filaments? I guess i just want to know are they really worth almost double the cost.by Andy1989 - Reprappers
I had exactly the same problem with my e3d when printing pla. You need to season it. Just Google season e3d and all will be explained. Iv had no problems since seasoning mine. You also need to make sure your not retracting to far as pulling the molten filament up into the heat break is a recipe for disaster! The filament will just cool and jam, and is a nightmare to get out! I'm not at my pc butby Andy1989 - General
Hows about using airtripper's filiament force sensor together with a pinch wheel to "autocalibrate" print speed and temperatures. Whenever I get a new filament I find out the maximum extrusion flow rate i can achieve for a range of temperatures by manually extruding at increasing speeds until i start to see the drive gear slipping. I then set my print speeds based on this maximum flow rate. Infby Andy1989 - Developers
I find honeycomb to be much stronger than rectilinear. As the direction of the linear infill changes with each layer, there are only point contacts between each layer of infill. Whereas with honeycomb each layer is printed directly on top of the previous layer, meaning the bonds between layers is much stronger. If you print two flat cubes, one with rectilinear and one with honeycomb. Then just bby Andy1989 - Reprappers