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People building or using RepRaps.
Re: RepRapDiscount Full Graphic Smart Controller not working - 8 years ago
SPAAAAAAAAAAAAAM! EDIT: Impressive, but still SPAAAAAAAAAAAM!by kerkove - Reprappers
Re: RepRapDiscount Full Graphic Smart Controller not working - 8 years ago
How are you powering the 5V for your RAMPS? Also, when you were checking the lcd you checked it on the front, under the panel itself?by kerkove - Reprappers
Re: RepRapDiscount Full Graphic Smart Controller not working - 8 years ago
Yeah that's weird. All I had to do with Marlin RC3 is uncomment the controller in configuration.h.by kerkove - Reprappers
Re: RepRapDiscount Full Graphic Smart Controller not working - 8 years ago
Check the following: RAMPS D16 to LCDRS on LCD (pin 4) RAMPS D17 to RW on LCD (pin 5) RAMPS D23 to E on LCD (pin 6) Check for 5V between pins 1 & 2 on LCD Check from A+ on LCD (pin 19) to GND while adjusting contrast potentiometer. Verify range from ~0 - 5V. EDIT: Oops.by kerkove - Reprappers
Re: Help! For a Noob trying to get a Mendel Prusa working - 8 years ago
In that case the motor is likely spinning the wrong direction. You may be on the right track with the firmware being incorrect. Did you install new firmware or use existing? If it's existing the y axis may be inverted. If you uploaded new you can invert the direction of the y axis in configuration.h. The wires could also be flipped to change the direction of rotation. A good way to know woulby kerkove - Reprappers
Re: Firmware copy from Arduino to PC - 8 years ago
I think the simplest solution is to use AVRdude (or AVRdudess if you want a utility with a GUI) to dump the firmware to a .hex file. Just be careful not to overwrite the memory while doing this. :by kerkove - General Mendel Topics
Re: Help! For a Noob trying to get a Mendel Prusa working - 8 years ago
Next to the driver for the y stepper, there is a small potentiometer (knob/screw). This adjust the maximum current that the driver will supply to the motor. With the power disconnected to the board turn it clockwise slightly, apply power and try to move the y carriage. repeat this until the carriage moves smoothly. Be very careful as these are delicate. Also, I would think about turning theby kerkove - Reprappers
Re: Help! For a Noob trying to get a Mendel Prusa working - 8 years ago
Also, This may help (Directions for uploading firmware to sanguino based boards) 1. I'd download the latest Arduino software and install it. 2. download the sanguino driver and install it. 3. plug the board in and allow windows to install the drivers. 4. Download firmware and open it with Arduino. You will have to go through the configuration.h file and change the settings to match your printeby kerkove - Reprappers
Re: Help! For a Noob trying to get a Mendel Prusa working - 8 years ago
I've tried quite a few firmware. Marlin is my favorite. It's difficult to say whether it's been loaded. It would probably be in your best interest to download Arduino, The driver for the board. and the firmware of your choice. The only way you're going to be able to calibrate and configure this correctly is to have access to the firmware source code to make changes.by kerkove - Reprappers
Re: Help! For a Noob trying to get a Mendel Prusa working - 8 years ago
Greetings, I find Pronterface to be a good starting point for anyone first acquainting themselves with 3d printer host software. There are arguably better programs out there. However, all of your manual controls are on the main screen with pronterface and setup is pretty straightforward. Also, what firmware are you using or planning to use?by kerkove - Reprappers
Re: Blown Fuse - 9 years ago
We'll need some more details. What model controller and type of Power supply for starters? If it's blowing the fuse instantaneously when you plug it in then you most likely have a short somewhere.by kerkove - Reprappers
Re: I fried my megas voltage regulator - 9 years ago
I fried the regulator on mine 2 years ago when I was assembling my i2. I just pulled 5V from my power supply, pulled D1 out of the RAMPS. A couple thousand hours later, still ticking.by kerkove - Reprappers
Re: RepRapDiscount Full Graphic Smart Controller not working - 9 years ago
If your encoder is working, the ribbon cables are connected correctly. (There were some made with the connectors labeled incorrectly on the silkscreen.)by kerkove - Reprappers
Re: RepRapDiscount Full Graphic Smart Controller not working - 9 years ago
I just bought one of these and it had a couple broken traces. I've also heard of bad solder joints and ribbon cables with these. The contrast knob on mine is kind of touchy as well. I would get a RAMPS pinout and schematic for the LCD and check continuity on everything. Once I got it going, it's great. I messed with the firmware for 2 days before I noticed the traces.by kerkove - Reprappers
Re: Marlin 1.1 and Arduino IDE 1.6.6 compile problems. Bleeding edge Dogshat - 9 years ago
I can compile Marlin 1.1 with 1.6.6. How about #define TEMP_SENSOR_1 (whatever your sensor is) in configuration.h? (I acquired 1.1 from ) With a fresh download, changing the EFB to EEB and the aforementioned Temp sensor 1 it works for me. This is with windows 10 however.by kerkove - Reprappers
Re: Marlin 1.1 and Arduino IDE 1.6.6 compile problems. Bleeding edge Dogshat - 9 years ago
Instead of using 34 for your motherboard in configuration.h, try BOARD_RAMPS_13_EEB. That will cause the error for pins.h as well. 1.0.5 never works for me. If you can't get 1.1 to compile, I would use the stable version and compile with 1.0.6. Unless there is a feature of 1.1 you desire that 1.0x does not have.by kerkove - Reprappers
Re: Marlin 1.1 and Arduino IDE 1.6.6 compile problems. Bleeding edge Dogshat - 9 years ago
Have you tried Arduino 1.0.6? It's the only release I can ever get Marlin or Repetier to compile correctly with. Also, could you give more details? Copy your error messages?by kerkove - Reprappers
Re: Rectilinear/ Rectilinear Infill - 9 years ago
Honeycomb... All the cool kids are doing it.by kerkove - Reprappers
Re: SAE Z-axis Steps per MM
- 9 years ago
The problem appeared to be that the thread pitch in mm is a recurring decimal. 1/18 x 25.4 = 1.41111.... Finding a layer height and steps per unit value that divide into each other equally to avoid the software having to round up every few layers was the challenge here, as well as being close enough to the actual value to avoid affecting dimensional accuracy. Any information (forum thread, howby kerkove - Reprappers
SAE Z-axis Steps per MM - 9 years ago
Greetings, I have been fighting these 5/16-18 threaded rods on my z-axis for weeks now. Finally, I believe I've found a solution. Forget all of these magic numbers you find in other forums, google, etc. Everything I have read since the first sickly looking calibration object popped from the print bed and my wife thought it was her christmas present told me to use 2267.716 for Z steps per mm. Nby kerkove - Reprappers