Quoteobewan Quoteashdavely How do you configure marlin to drop below your Z endstop? I've played with this but ended up crashing into the build plate. Also, is Z home the same as Z0? Send a G92 Z10 ; makes printer think its at z10 instead of Z0, jog Zdown for paper test Then send G92 Z0 ; resets Z0 to current position Will the firmware keep the new Z0 setting?by ashdavely - Reprappers
How do you configure marlin to drop below your Z endstop? I've played with this but ended up crashing into the build plate. Also, is Z home the same as Z0?by ashdavely - Reprappers
I built an i3 variant running Marlin 1.1 RC8 firmware which I recently upgraded from RC6. I installed an inductive sensor LJ18A3-8-Z/BX to replace my mechanical Z endstop switch. The sensor works, it detects my aluminum build plate. When my print starts the nozzle is too far from the build plate currently by several mm. I have been pausing the print job and baby-stepping the nozzle down (using Ocby ashdavely - Reprappers
I need some suggestions for a z offset issue. I recently setup auto bed leveling which technically is working when I run G29 but I cannot get the nozzle close enough to get a successful print. I am running marlin 1.1.0 RC6 Initially i set the Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER with my value which is -1.3.in Arduino and flashed it to my ramps board (repeatedly). The printer says it's there in the LCDby ashdavely - Reprappers
I have an i3 prusa variant printer with a z homing issue at start of print that I have not been able to solve. When I start the print it homes the z axis then raises again a few mm (hot end temp check i think) but does not come back down far enough to engage the z endstop before starting the print. It's always about 1mm high. It causes adhesion issues to the bed. I can still print, with issues.by ashdavely - Mechanics
What temp do you print at 50mm/s? Are you using volcano?by ashdavely - Prusa i3 and variants
I hadn't considered that 30mm/s was to fast. Advertised speed was 20-50mm. I will try 20mm when I get everything back together. 20mm/s is a very slow print.by ashdavely - Prusa i3 and variants
My extruder stepper isn't delivering hardly any torque. I could very easily stall it by gently holding the filament while printing which duplicated my original "thunk"l issue. I increased the power on the driver as much as I could without it sounding strange and got a slight improvement. If i try to stall it now though it stops turning and makes a faint whining sound. There is no way this motor iby ashdavely - Prusa i3 and variants
Thanks for your reply. This issue is still ongoing and I do think it's the motor as I have rebuild the hotend several times and there is nothting wrong with it. I've ordered a slightly better stepper motor to try but probably should have ordered a geared one. I don't know if a geared motor will fit my direct drive setup as I am unable to print parts now.by ashdavely - Prusa i3 and variants
It could be skipping steps...or just jamming but I thought it would stop extruding entirely. I took apart my hot end and found the ptfe tube wasn't all the way against the nozzle so that could be my problem. I burned out the heatbed mosfet on my ramps so now I am waiting for parts to arrive.by ashdavely - Prusa i3 and variants
I built an i3 printer recently and have an extruder problem that I have not been able to solve. During a print the extruder makes a random loud "thunk" sound. I can see the filament moving in reverse for a split second like it's binding. If I print faster than 30mm/s it makes the noise nearly all the time. I have retraction disabled to rule it out. Using Slic3r and Marlin firmware. I have an E3by ashdavely - Prusa i3 and variants