Show all posts by user

Re: Has anyone got this 2 in 1 hot end to work? - 4 years ago

Well, in my honest opinnion I think this is junk. Because this fan can never get a significant amount of air through the hotend and so never can keep it cool upwards. If the upper section (above the heatbreaks) is not cool, the filament gets soft and jams.

Re: Ender 3 Pro - several problems after switch to MKS Gen L - 4 years ago

I'm not surprised by your missing steps on TMC2100 have a look at there ara many search results in google for "tmc2100 missing steps"

Re: Can slic3r be used with SLA/resin 3d printers? - 4 years ago

use slic3r prusa version - defenitly able to use with SLA printers

Re: Problem after an hour of printing - 4 years ago

As we do not have any pictures of your printer and I just googled the Mosquito - my first guess would be not enough cooling of the top part of the hotend (cooling fins), creaping heat and thus clogging. And 2nd guess - like MCcraman - Filament cooler blowing at the nozzle, thermistor does not know, nozzle to cold to extrude, extruder chewing up filament. Especially as the thermistor is on top of

Re: Heated bed or Chamber PWM - set as inverted , but pins are high on reset (0C). How to set condition for PWM to be pulled Low after reset (0C) ? - 4 years ago

use a separate cooling controller. makes it much easier than messing arround in the source code.

Re: Printing issues.. at a loss - 4 years ago

On your 2nd picture it looks like the hotend fan is blowing against the X-Carriage. If yes, I think this might be your problem. The path for the air has to be free of obstacles, else there won't be enough cooling of the upper part of the hotend and thus clogging of the heatbreak. Had this Problem a while ago with am Anet A2 with an E3D-V6 Clone. switched position of the hotend-fan and the prin

Re: Precision Piezo Z-probe Now available. - 4 years ago

Z-Wobble gone. X-Belt was to tight. loosened it up a bit, now prints nearly perfect - just some finetuning in slic3r left

Re: Precision Piezo Z-probe Now available. - 4 years ago

I just did it that way, because I had this heatbed on my shelf. And as I do not bend anything on this bed, because it is just put on top without screwing, there will not be any problem. - As you say: You gotta know what you do. I know, that the mounting of the X-belt can be improved, but with my measurement-methods I can't see any problem arising in my prints. There is one thing on this print

Re: Precision Piezo Z-probe Now available. - 4 years ago

As promised - pictures of the printer and setup. I'm absolutely happy to have the Piezo Z-probe, because especially on this machine, if the two Z-Steppers are not perfectly aligned, leveling with the piezos compensates for it.

Re: Precision Piezo Z-probe Now available. - 4 years ago

I do not know. But there are 4 Piezos... (Standard 220 x 220 Heatbed, 4 Holes on the Edges) Most important is to wait 1 second before each probing, because the piezos trigger from the Y-movement. Pictures of the Printer to come (SD-Reader not working in PC...)

Re: Precision Piezo Z-probe Now available. - 4 years ago

My 3rd 3D-Printer. A Prusa Mendel i2 with Under-bed-piezos in the "cups" shown in the middle of this page: Standard Deviation: 0.001034

Re: Need X-axis endstop holder for Prusa i3 - any suppliers? - 4 years ago

Welcome. Could you provide a picture of your printer, so we exactly know what you built and make the correct holder? Regarding money - could be interesting where you are from - else shipment costs could be extremely high.

Re: Precision Piezo Z-probe Now available. - 4 years ago

Sorry for my late reply. No, I'm not Dutch, I'm Austrian The piezo discs are from ebay - don't know which exact - listing does not exist anymore, but nothing special about them. Th circuit was built on breadbord according to a link I found in one of the first entries in this forum. Should be this one: Original full Circuit + with my notes attached to this message.

Re: strange extruder skipping steps - 4 years ago

maybe it would be helpful to see pictures of what the problem is on your printed object. additionally maybe you should ad your slicer config bundle. There are more parameters that matter for extrusion.

Re: Precision Piezo Z-probe Now available. - 4 years ago

Yes. Some pictures: I call the lower part "cups". They are mounted, so that the top parts (inserts) are not completely loose but little bit rubbing on one of the inside wall of the cups. Config is still the same as on the pictures taken in August 2017 - and many rolls of filament have gone down on this printer

Re: I screwed up. I have a Starter 2 printer x,y,z cartesian, need help PLEASE - 4 years ago

first thing: would be helpful if you provide a photo of your controller board including cabling and your printer. then we might be able to help.

Re: Precision Piezo Z-probe Now available. - 4 years ago

I have two deltas with Piezos as under bed sensors. Work perfectly since more than two years

Re: CoreXY printer, print slowly shifts / leans to the right - 4 years ago

Well... I think, this is a well known issue with DRV8825:

Re: STL Parts for fisher . help - 5 years ago

Well... If you don't know such an absolut basic information, you probably should read a lot more about 3D-Printing before starting anything. The Software you are searching for is called a slicer. There are quite a lot of them - e.g. Cura, Slic3r, Slic3r Prusa, Kisslicer, craftware, simplify3d,....

Re: A most epic print fail - 5 years ago

holy crap! yes the "Cat o' nine tails" is strongly recommended for not watching the printer for even just a few minutes.

Re: What is broken? - 5 years ago

Well... You shorted your printer, and you only replace hotend end extruder? Did you even check if the controller board ist alive? Normally the first thing dying ist the controller board...

Re: Precision Piezo Z-probe Now available. - 5 years ago

I have two deltas with Piezos as under bed sensors. Work perfectly since more than two years

Re: Extruder completely clogges after only seconds of use - 5 years ago

a picture of your cooling and hotend mount would help

Re: Delta printer dimensional accuracy not square - 5 years ago

Welcome, thanks for your information of not beeing complete noob :-) Before using UBL or any other bed lebeling algorithm you need to calibrate the delta correctly. First you have to make sure your measurements of your delta-geometry are as correct as possible. I can't exactly say how the parameters names are in marlin 1.1.8 and 1.1.9 because I still use 1.1.6. but I'm talking about theese param

Re: Ciclops Scanners - any experience? - 5 years ago

I know this topic is rather old. But I own a ciclops and can tell that it is not worth building and/or buying one. Bether go this way:

Re: Can't get DARK Grey filament - 5 years ago

Re: What to build? I have bits.. - 5 years ago

Sorry, in my opinnion you are damned stupid. There are so many people arround here, that would have been glad to buy this old machines from you for a few bucks, and they could have started 3D-printing after fixing your machines - and that would have cost about EUR 50,- (RAMPS + E3D Clone from China + some printed parts). It makes me sick to see such useless demolition, increasing waste on earth

Re: Marlin 1.1.8 and Heater failures. - 5 years ago

There is defenitly something in EEPROM if you did not initalize. With MEGA2560 I know that EEPROM contains "FF" when fresh - so usually maximum (depending on data type)

Re: Anet A8 suddenly prints like crap - 5 years ago

I once had a very similar looking problem. It was the heatbreak not beeing secured in the cold end. Nozzle, heatblock, and heatbreak were tight as they should, but heatbrake was loose in the cooling fins.

Re: Diagnosing Thermal Runaway of Hot End caused by wall thickness. - 5 years ago

My finding is, that every Marlin over 1.1.6 turned out to be not stable - see all the discussions here in this forum on 1.1.7, 1.1.8 and the few peole with 1.1.9 I have the same expreience with my 2 Deltas - 1.1.6 does have much less bells and whistles, but works. Starting with 1.1.7 I never could get (reliable good) prints I would be very interested about Marlin 2.x if it works reliable, but I