Hello Bart! You should never move the motors using USB power, the motors will draw more current than the USB is supposed to deliver. A motor can draw 1-2 Amps depending on the motor, while USB 2.0 is limited to .5 Amps (500mA). Hopefully you have not damaged the board or your computer. Try again using the power supply in the unit, using USB for sending commands only. Good Luck!by Diggrr - Smoothie
Nice work!by Diggrr - Smoothie
I really wouldn't, and here's why.. Standard 1" paper clip for scale, Keenovo 110v bed heater. (I run an industrial live x-ray unit)by Diggrr - General
I ordered mine from his Tindie store--yet to arrive (ordered Saturday, shipped Sunday from China so..): In the facebook group he's announced a dedicated website to buy from is just getting off the ground: BTW, not advertising for the dude, nor am I affiliated. But it's definitely a project that interests me and I think is worth a shot. V2.5 should be coming shortly, with more GPIO pins avaby Diggrr - Controllers
I found it interesting enough to order one this past weekend. V2 is now online with 6 drivers, not the 4 as pictured. Looking forward to seeing what it can do!by Diggrr - Controllers
I always move/reset my Z endstop at .1mm while leveling the bed (manual, paper trick). I don't have to do leveling very often. I have gamma_min set to .1 in firmware, so it automatically sets a .1 position for the end stop trigger point. I've added G1 Z10 F5000 after homing in my slicer(s) start gcode so it lifts to 10mm before starting/waiting for the hot end to heat, then 5C before target I sby Diggrr - General
I've enjoyed using the optical stops for a while, and there's two other things to like about them: *No mechanical "hit", you're not touching the switch ever, so they maintain their mounted position even when things go wrong. *A variable LED makes adjusting my Z switch much easier than trying to set .1mm to exactly coincide with the mechanical click of a switch. The only downside I've found isby Diggrr - General
No Problem! I did just take a peek back into that config.txt I was running at the time, and it doesn't look like I disabled anything in the E2 section except the SPI frequency that is already disabled in the config.txt you download from Panucatt. I guess that would make sense that your CPU can talk to the driver on that socket, but step/dir/eng pins are tied to E1 with the 3 jumpers.by Diggrr - Controllers
Dual Z in smoothieware isn't too hard once you find the near impossible to find clues. LOL Herculien's machine gave me the clues, as his has a dual z. First, Copy your config.txt off to the side or add a 1 to the copy's filename, so you have an untouched/unchanged reference. There's 3 jumpers next to the E1 driver socket . Connect them with 3 jumpers. This locks both E sockets in step with eachby Diggrr - Controllers
Yeah, I've used E3D's PT-100 & amp board on an Azteeg smoothieboard for the last 3 years, and I know where it's limits are, but that's why I cannot test for myself. I was just wondering what Marlin would do if you set temp higher than the thermistor's table (assuming they've changed the max_temp). I've seen a couple tables top out at 300, but this is the second time I've seen someone say theby Diggrr - Firmware - Marlin
I haven't used Marlin in ages, and never had cause to push high temps when I did, but the question came up recently.. How does Marlin handle it when an operator sets the nozzle temperature higher than where the thermistor table ends? I've seen people claiming to be running up to 325C with a glass bead stock from China printer, but when I looked into it, the thermistor tables I opened (2.0 bugfiby Diggrr - Firmware - Marlin
It does have firmware installed, mostly Chinese but the important parts are English as you'll see when connected to Pronterface/PC/USB. I've since replaced my board so no pics, but I did capture the board connections from the .pdf file for you, in case that helps. No seller ever shows the actual wiring for liability reasons, in case their junk burns you down. I tried 3 times to attach the 3.3Mby Diggrr - Delta Machines
I used to be in a facebook group, 3d printer design & build (or something close to that). There was a guy running a quad idex on smoothie, did some of the fw himself. Not sure if he ever forked it on github or not. Might try to find the group..by Diggrr - Smoothie
I'm designing a mini right now, with a 150x150mm Keenovo 500 watt 120 volt heater. To get the drive-line on the same plane as the rails, I'm having to make it a 300mm cube (not a fan of off center drive like railcore etc. use). For now it's a collection of parts and plans.. budget ripples are slowing me.by Diggrr - Reprappers
Hey Jason, Sorry man, I'm running Smoothieware on mine and using SD6128 drivers now. I tried Marlin for a minute some time ago, and the Viki would not work, so I haven't been back to it. I had the TMC2660's in at the time, but Marlin was not done enough to try 'em out.by Diggrr - Smoothie
230x230 3mm aluminum plate with glass and 1mm PEI. 200 watt silicone heater @24v (cheapo reprap one from gulfcoast robotics). 3/4" thick blanket of spun ceramic fiber under-bed insulation. 6 minutes flat from 22-110C, which is just enough time to make an espresso for the show.by Diggrr - General
I didn't find any wear with the delrin wheels, but I've heard that not all black wheels are really delrin--some are nylon fwiw. I currently use the PC wheels from Openbuilds, and they show no wear in almost 3 years on an enclosed machine. As for 3 .vs 4, I use 4 because I've had a hard time keeping the eccentric nuts tight on a 3 wheel setup. There seems to be just enough wiggle to wedge them inby Diggrr - General
I cannot find a speed setting for that in Kisslicer, but perhaps increasing your minimum extrusion speed under the "Matl" tab, in the flow adjust section will do the trick.by Diggrr - General
I did the mod/nomod + layer heights test w/80mm vase cubes a while ago, and have neglected to post my results. I run a mini Kossel with an Azteeg X5 mini Ethernet v3. Drivers are Panucatt's SD6128 (reads LV8728 under the heatsink).. when I asked Ray at Panucatt, he said OnSemi bought the line and renamed them, though the data sheets (can only find one for LV8728MR, no MR on mine) show slightly dby Diggrr - Delta Machines
This has always confused me in the g-code wiki, but could it be E1 instead of E-1? I run smoothieware now, but it makes more sense with the hotend being 0 and the bed being 1.. dunno if that's the problem.. I use bang bang BTW, no issues with it. You just have to uncomment a line in Marlin and set hysterisis to 2 degrees to define when heat is on or off. I started with a tarantula, but my bed wby Diggrr - Prusa i3 and variants
Man. USB has always been sketchy in Windows with one smart device or another (for me), so I've always trusted Ethernet. It's one of several reasons that I moved to a 32 bit board for a simple i3 that 8 bit can handle fine. My satellite modem changes IP's often and is the DHCP sever, so I have to change my browser link, but that's displayed on the Viki when booted so really it's a non-event (way eby Diggrr - Smoothie
I was pondering last night about spring pins, using a close fitting clevis or yolk with the same size holes to contain the bearing and pin. They're basically a spring steel tube with tapered ends made to drive into a dowel hole, but hold with outward spring tension instead of adhesives or an interference fit. Untried, but a thought none the less. It doesn't take a great deal of force to insert aby Diggrr - Reprappers
Nice write-up Mike! I have a universal kit and a set of andromeda's to boot.. So I have faith. I've just to get my lazy butt to install them! Cheers!by Diggrr - General
Wow, that's new! When all else fails with Windoze, shut everything down and unplug the USB. Start the PC, plug in the USB, start the printer. Make sure to check in Win Device manager that it's still using the same com port you expect or Pronterface won't connect. Glad you got it to move!by Diggrr - Smoothie
Which stepper drivers are you using? The SD8825?, or other Panucatt driver? Do they have the 3 extra pins installed at the end near the POT? If they do, the little pair of solder pads in that corner need to be cleaned off (not bridged together by solder). If the pins and the solder join are both "ON" you will have problems with motor current. Also, if you do have the 3 extra pins, make sure theyby Diggrr - Smoothie
Doesn't the MKS SBase use the 1768? Huh.by Diggrr - Smoothie
Well if everything software remains equal, then it's likely time to seek a replacement board. Though the build quality is excellent with Panucatt, there's sure to be some that just have a failure somewhere. The last thing I have is to make sure that the motor wiring is correct for the steppers you're using. I've seen some with crossed center conductors from what's expected (ACBD instead of ABCD)by Diggrr - Smoothie
I've attached my config.txt file for you. Mind you that mine is a little bit "tortured". lol: *I have a Berd-Air cooler that I run off the second extruder port (2.5) *I use a PT-100 for hotend temp, so there's extra bits in that section. *I found that fan #1 in the wiring diagram has the wrong pin number, it should be (1.22) and not (1.25). *I use fan#1 to exhaust my enclosure with a temperatureby Diggrr - Smoothie
The firmware download is universal, and gotten from the github page. Latest is always best. Once the board has been booted with the new firmware, the "firmware.cur" isn't really needed anymore, that's done so you can verify the board was flashed successfully. I keep mine on there just the same, but I don't let the card fill up with gcode files anyway so the space isn't needed (by me). Of course tby Diggrr - Smoothie
Ooh, that's the wrong config file for GT, you've got the one for an original smoothie board (pin assignments are all the wrong numbers for starters). I had to start with the config.txt downloaded from Panucatt directly (GT download page) That should get you going in the right direction.. the SPI one is for the TMC 26xx drivers, the other config is for all other drivers. Mind the section at theby Diggrr - Smoothie