The 2130 is also 256 steps. They sure do cost more! My first batch of Chinese boards weren't configured correctly for SPI and only two from the batch of five survived my attempts at soldering SMT jumpers. The second batch were real ones, costing $14 each, plus another $14 each for flybacks. I killed one of those, too. Meanwhile, I already own the microswitches that they are replacing. So ...by tbeaulieu - General
"However stall detection for 3D printers is oversold IMO" I'm new to reprap ( a month or so). I have 2130 boards on my RAMPs and also flyback boards (all wetterott). I've never used the "regular" drivers so I can't compare the sound, but I will say that my motors seem awfully quiet with StealthChop. I have no X or Y endstops - I'm using stall detection and it seems to work just fine to me. As foby tbeaulieu - General
Has anyone seen this before? I started a big print and as it expanded the footprint of the first layer my fan/sensor mount snagged an office binder clip that's holding my glass down. I hate those things and will be implementing one of the solutions that eliminates them. Anyway, for that brief few seconds it struggled, but kept printing while I popped the binder off. A while later I noticed thatby tbeaulieu - General
I'm about to order this kit. I am craz excited to try this out. There are videos that you can watch about adjusting this. My take away is that if you don't like the flashes when moving, you can experiment with adjusting the sensitivity or the tightness. This is also discussed and described in www.precisionpiezo.co's instructions as being a balancinc act between firm and not sensitive or loose andby tbeaulieu - General
Hi, do these Z measurements look OK? The front left/right are adjustable points, with the rear center being fixed.Is there are a generally accepted tolerance for how far off a measurement would be before you'd try to adjust it? Thank you. READ: Bilinear Leveling Grid: READ: 0 1 2 READ: 0 -1.267 -1.243 -1.187 READ: 1 -1.242 -1.179 -1.257 READ: 2 -1.183 -1.202 -1.330by tbeaulieu - General
I spent a few minutes looking. I didn't find it exactly, but I can see that it's storing an array of values that are somehow used to translate coordinates from native Z values to logical values. It uses interpolation to come up with values between the measured points.by tbeaulieu - Firmware - Marlin
Don't know why you got different tuning results, but the dirivitive is all about putting the brakes on overshoots, so it makes sense that increasing that value would somoth it out. Might even be able to go up a bit more. Give it a shot.by tbeaulieu - Firmware - Marlin
I'm running with 2130s on my 2560/Marlin/RAMPs 1.4 home made rig and using sensorless homing for X & Y. I stumbled across this GCODE today and the code for it is listed below. What the heck is this actually accomplishing? I was super excited at first, thinking it would solve all my manual paper calibrations by automatically probing and detecting the extruder tip touching the bed. By subtraby tbeaulieu - Firmware - Marlin
To be honest, I'm not completely following you, but ... I made some good progress. I discovered that my IR sensor was not seeing the arduino controlled pull-up on the sensor OUT pin and was initializing in analog mode. This means it was sending an analog measurement and who knows how that was being handled when Marlin was expecting a bit. I had to add a physical pull-up and now the sensor seemsby tbeaulieu - General
If you intend to continue experimenting with this stuff you should consider getting an inexpensive multi-meter. With one, you can measure the voltage at the heat bed. I'm sure you'll find that it's under-voltage. If that's the case you're maxing the PS and stressing it, all while under-performing. A multi-meter would take all the guess work out of it. Good luck.by tbeaulieu - Prusa i3 and variants
Don't forget that supplies claiming to deliver 20A don't necessarily do that. I bought a "5 star" PS from amazon that could only deliver 9.6A to the bed. I upgraded to a 30A and all is well now.by tbeaulieu - Reprappers
Update ... I've been using sensorless homing in X and Y for a couple of weeks now. It seems to be just fine. I may be missing something but I don't see how sensorless homing's accuracy could possibly be an issue. Once you home, the print is off and running. It doesn't home again, right? Again, I'm green enough that maybe I'm missing something. I will say that I see Y steps missed on taller printsby tbeaulieu - Reprappers
I never did figure that out, but did prove that the board was bad. Switched to Wetterot which come correct. Too irritated with Fytec to give them more of my money for the v1.1 version after they figured out they screwed us on the v1.0s. Also M122 gives the registers, and while I don't understand what the values mean it's a quick way to spot a driver that's not playig nicely with SPI because itby tbeaulieu - Reprappers
Personally I mark every change I make in my .h files. I find it crazy helpful to cycle through my changes with F3 because I'm often reviewing and tweaking.by tbeaulieu - Prusa i3 and variants
Just a thought... I'm using the PID for my heads but bang bang for my bed. Fried my first RAMP with PID on bed. I had no fan and it destroyed the MOSFET. I haven't tried it since, and honestly, see no need for it. Bang bang seems to work quickly and accurately for me.by tbeaulieu - Prusa i3 and variants
Your RAMP board is different than mine so I won't comment on the connectors but it looks just fine. That's how you'd use a second PS for just the bed. My first 20A PS was BS (get it?). When heating the bed it would bog down (even the fan would) and only supply 10v or so to the bed. I replaced it with a single 30A PS which works awesomely. Personally I prefer a single PS that can power everything.by tbeaulieu - Prusa i3 and variants
Trying to understand some fundamental concepts that I'm struggling with. Hoping someone could shed some light. I have IR sensor on my arduino/I3 clone/RAMPs 1.4/Marlin that I built. I home all axes, disable the software stop, zero out the z probe offset and sneak up a piece of paper under the tip. When in position I set the z probe offset to the difference (typically about -0.9) and re-enableby tbeaulieu - Prusa i3 and variants
I'm super new to all of this, so take this with a grain of salt, as I'm also struggling to understand homing and tramming. I can't answer your questions but I wanted to throw out a couple of ideas. 1. I think your Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER is wrong. This should be the offset from the extruder tip that your sensor SIGNALS, not where it's physically mounted. It should signal before the tip hitsby tbeaulieu - Prusa i3 and variants
Hello, I built an arduino/ramps/2130/p3 steel printer. I had it working, but I reconfigured it this morning, eliminating the glass (BuildTak sheet on heat bed) and converted it from an inductive sensor to a smaller IR sensor. I've wasted HOURS trying to get this to work as I assume it should. I've gone through the calibration steps 100x: M851 Z0 to reset z offset, G28, G1 X95 Y95, M211 S0 to turby tbeaulieu - General
An old thread but I wonder if the new TMC 2130 chips that use current monitoring mean that they are more susceptable to noise? I'm just coming up to speed with my first printer using the Watterott silentsteps and I'm thinking of twisting the pairs.by tbeaulieu - Mendel90
Could you provide the final solution to this? I have the same situation. Parallel motors on RAMPS. Either motor works, both whine for 5 seconds or so and don't move.by tbeaulieu - General
Hello, I have v1.0 controllers and I'm trying to reconfigure them to work with marlin. Removing the resistor to enable SPI is easy. The teensy, tiny jumper pads for cfg4/cfg5 is an entirely different story. I have one working, but the second is not. It won't try to home. I can move the axis manually, but it seems like it's not sensing current and therefore won't try to find home.This is switch-leby tbeaulieu - Reprappers
Thank you for your tips. I'm digesting it all. I had the X axis working manually with the LCD controller knob. Replaced the 2100 with the 2130 that was modified, installed the library and made the changes to the .h files to enable 2130, enable it for the X axis, enable sensorless homing and finally, I moved the CS pin to pin 40 and changed that in the pins_RAMPS.h. Oddly, changing it to to nearbby tbeaulieu - Reprappers
Hello, I'm brand new to reprap. Just starting the wiring on my steel frame arduino/ramps 1.4 build loosely built on Tom's cheap prussa I3 video series. I just got the X axis moving manually (hello world) using the standard controller chip. The printed limit switch mounts that I got are just not compatible with my build and I'd like to eliminate the switches entirely. Tom's video on the 2130 statby tbeaulieu - Reprappers