QuoteMKSA QuoteNumber_5 Looks nice. Look is one thing. There was only one picture and a rendering when I wrote that post. Happy holidays.by Number_5 - Extruded Aluminum Frames
That is a good tip whether or not it solves the problem here.by Number_5 - General
Looks nice.by Number_5 - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Yes this also looks like a poor idea durability wise. I agree that iteration is functionally the same as your original. Switching to Aramid core belt as MKSA suggested is a reasonable idea if you want to use this style of clamp. The only reason your clamps work at all is the incidental friction between the rubber and the steel core, which could vary from brand to brand. Rather then "devote"by Number_5 - General
That looks OK and should be wide enough apart for those types of bearings IMO. Tighten down one rail down first. Then slide the bed all the way to one end and tighten half of the second rail. Slide the bed to the opposite end and tighten the second half of the second rail. Repeat if necessary. This is how I aligned the 2 rails on one of my printers, it seemed to work well and doesn't involve mby Number_5 - Extruded Aluminum Frames
I would go with 2 rails given the choice, unless you have documentation to show that the single carriage can resit twisting without any slop.by Number_5 - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Just a few things that I would check. -z hop (off) -Seam position, try nearest, random etc. -You could try turning off "detect thin walls" if its on. -check out your gap infill speed and external perimeter speed. -avoid crossing perimeters, (on) I would be interested to see what the issue is.by Number_5 - Slic3r
lol you found the limits of your machine it appears.by Number_5 - Duet
Maybe a belt would have less play?by Number_5 - General New Machines Topics
Meh, the price is close enough now i just bought a Duet Ethernet. You just have to decide, can I trade off a few rolls of future filament for a nice 32 bit controller? I don't want a forced sub $100 32 bit board, let it happen naturally. What are we talking here, it's $150 US if you buy straight from Duet. I paid a little more from a local reseller. Life is too short, how long are you goinby Number_5 - General
The build is officially underway I guess. I printed a cover for my Crydom D2425 SSR with a bit of T-glase. It's similar to a cover that is available, but I didn't want the terminal screw access holes in it, so I printed this one instead. I can just remove the cover if I need to get at the screws. I also found a heat sink left over from a CPU that I will use. It still needs to be drilled and tapby Number_5 - Extruded Aluminum Frames
The Crydom SSR arrived in the mail today. The replacement for the counterfeit Fotek is in the mail. I found an old CPU heat-sink, I may re-purpose it for this SSR just because. Duet recommends a heat-sink if the SSR is used at or over 25% of it's current rating. My Keenovo heat bed will be drawing ~6.25A which is 25% of the Crydom's 25A rating. It never hurts to cool electronics so i will go wiby Number_5 - General
Quotethe_digital_dentist If I were contemplating enough production to justify a printer farm, I don't think I would rely on bearings held in printed plastic mounts. I think I'd end up spending more time repairing the machines than printing. Would it really be difficult to make the part from a drilled piece of metal? Of course you would. Why does it matter?by Number_5 - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Update: The vendor thinks they may have send a counterfeit by accident. The picture that they took and have on their site is a apparently the real one. I sent them off a picture of this one which is different, see where it goes. Unfortunately in the meantime I got confirmation of my order for the Crydom 2425. Round and round we go lol. I will most likely use the Crydom on this build and if theyby Number_5 - General
So I'm about 80% the SSR from spool3d.ca is a fake, despite the banner on the website saying they sourced real ones. I'm back to placing an order for the original Crydom SSR I was after, it appears to be in stock, hopefully no issues this time, though I haven't received a receipt yet so maybe it screwed up again lol. For those interested in what is wrong with the SSR I received: -It says "maby Number_5 - General
Quoteshearder QuoteNumber_5 How dry are you getting your filaments before printing? I am in an area with very low humidity. Have been for many years and printing fine fienthe last 8 I had a feeling you were going to say that. For the benefit of others reading this, dry your filament, all of it, regardless of where you live.by Number_5 - General
How dry are you getting your filaments before printing?by Number_5 - General
I did a bit of balancing of the build plate. The plate will be leveled at 3 points, it may also be lifted at 3 points. If so, these locations are reasonably balanced, they weigh approx 950-1000 grams at each location. (Build plate weighs just under 3 KG.) One location is at the center of one edge of the X axis. The other two points of the triangle are 9cm back from the corners on the Y axis.by Number_5 - Extruded Aluminum Frames
I wonder if it had something to do with you frying the SD card on your raspberry pi. Coincidence?by Number_5 - Duet
Come to think of it, the Noctua is only going to be 12V, so I will take it out of my cart. (Was trying to get it to the point of free ship) Those tools are handy, I will track one down.by Number_5 - Extruded Aluminum Frames
The metal files I had inside would clog up quickly with the aluminum, there was a lot of metal to remove. There might be a good one out in the garage somewhere, it was cold yesterday. As far as the fan, small fans are notoriously loud, dimming a small fan isn't that practical. It would be hit or miss with the airflow and whether or not it starts at a reduced voltage. Noctua fans actually are faby Number_5 - Extruded Aluminum Frames
I had the day off work today so I thought I would putter around with the build plate. The edges were really rough on two of the sides, so I went around them with a file and slightly broke the edges. It's not perfect but it's reasonable, I used a fairly coarse laminate plastic file. It worked pretty good but even it would get a small bit of aluminum stuck in the teeth that would leave a mark on thby Number_5 - Extruded Aluminum Frames
It would work, might make a good large scale printer because the cantilever is half the size because of the turntable. The frame would me much simpler and therefor might be somewhat more practical then other large scale designs.by Number_5 - General New Machines Topics
With a pantograph, your Z motor movements and speeds will be amplified significantly, (Assuming you don't attach it at a 1:1 point which would defeat the purpose of a pantograph by making it huge) so you will have to incorporate lots of extra Z resolution, compared to the R360 linked. It looks like a lot to deal with in slicing due to all the tangents, but you must already have that part sortedby Number_5 - General New Machines Topics
I will have a look at Micheals for some of that cork, I may go that route with a bit of a sandwich for extra assurance. I notice that both my heater and PEI sheet have 200MP adhesive with the 468MP transfer sheet. (Just curious as to what the spec on the transfer sheet is and why its worth mentioning.) My PEI is thinner then I would have preferred, but it was the right size and I was already maby Number_5 - General
It's probably not worth trying to bind it to metal due to cost and also the dispensable nature of nozzles in general. It could be clamped to the hotend in various ways.by Number_5 - General
Here is what I was picturing when you mentioned this. Inside the nozzle is a cone. This cone is there to keep the tip of the nozzle from bulging out, it's thicker then the rest. The area around the cone is air, to give space for the cone to expand into. The bottom is corrugated. This may or may not be needed, but could make it easier to expand without pushing the silicone downward. The yellowby Number_5 - General
Yup that is it. I'll admit that design makes me consider using something different then extruded aluminum for the frame. I broke the little fan for my E3D V6 last night. For some reason I thought I would check the fan to make sure that it was 24V. When I was pushing it back on the nozzle, I must have been inadvertently pressing on the fan hub too much. I will have to order a replacement, I'veby Number_5 - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Maybe check that the ribbon cables are seated correctly and go from there.by Number_5 - Reprappers