There's a machine on the RepRap options page which looks a bit suspicious to me: The text is all in Chinese, there are no CAD files for it and no external page links. Oh, and the picture of the Hulk model on the print-bed is clearly Photoshopped....badly! The manufacturers claim it to be be self-replicating, yet I can't find any part files for it anywhere. Does this thing count as a legit Repby Myndale - General
Been following the latest discussions here, thought I'd throw in my own 2c... Not sure if anyone's interested but I did a write-up a few years ago on the maths used in my own Repic firmware, see for details. It does proper RepRap 5D interpolation with zero error. The basic idea is that it does an iterative integral of both the position and velocity terms using 1:31 fixed-point math but calculatby Myndale - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
Quotedc42 So I think the comfortable minimum is 4 step pins, 1 DIR pin, 2 Enable pins, 2 thermistor inputs, 2 heater outputs, 2 endstop inputs, and one Z probe input. That's 14 pins. Add one if you want a controllable cooling fan. Add one for a delta printer, or subtract one for a non-delta if you are using a Z probe that can also be used for X homing , as the Ormerod does. So you still have arouby Myndale - Reprappers
Quotemadmike8Teacup will work. Teacup looks really good but it doesn't seem to support printing directly from SD card.by Myndale - Reprappers
Thanks for the response, I figured as much! There's no question in my mind the 328P can handle this, guess I'll just have to go do it myself. Cheers!by Myndale - Reprappers
Hi everyone, first time posting here in over 3 years, looks like a lot has change since I've been gone! I've currently resumed building my second 3d printer (a Mini Prusa) and as a challenge I've decided to see if I can make functional electronics for under AUD$20. Here's what I've got so far: BOM with current EBay prices are as follows: 328P Arduino Pro Mini ($2.73) SD Card Module ($1.00)by Myndale - Reprappers
With my JHead I've had no problems at all printing ~500 meters of PLA and 1 jam with the 2-3 meters of ABS I tried. Might have been a problem with the ABS itself though.by Myndale - Australia, Melbourne RUG
I buy my ABS from Lybina as well, in my experience they provide really good quality stock. It's a bit more expensive than some other options but IMO it's worth it just to support a local supplier with a track record for being very friendly and helpful to the local RepRap scene. Now if we could just get them to start doing PLA for us....by Myndale - Australia, Melbourne RUG
For those of us that make our own circuit boards the following link might be helpful: The FAQ provides more info but there's a mobile service that travels around and accepts things like acids, corrosive agents, oxidizing agents, solvents etc. You might have to wait a bit for the service to come to a council nearby but it's better than tipping the stuff into our waterways.by Myndale - Australia, Melbourne RUG
I'm currently using WD40 on a Wallace build and so far it seems to be working well. I tried soaking both ABS and PLA filament in it for a few days, as far as I can tell it doesn't affect them at all. What it does do well is help prevent rust which is a problem I recently experienced with my Mendel (had to remove all bars, scrub off a very thin layer of rust with hot water, WD40 and soap then sandby Myndale - Australia, Melbourne RUG
Heya Bill, welcome to the group. QuoteTechnoBill If anyone has any warnings I should heed, please speak up My advice would be to avoid any temptation to rush your build or cut corners. Take your time, build every single component to the best of your ability and you'll save yourself a ton of headaches down the road. Also get as much help as you can from fellow RepRappers, there's a lot to learnby Myndale - Australia, Melbourne RUG
Hi Corin, welcome to the group. I'm in Melbourne myself but I pass through Bendigo and back a few times a year on my way up north. My Mendel's not calibrated properly at the moment and I'm in the middle of a printrbot build so I won't be doing full prints for another month or two but if you get stuck and need an emergency piece printed up then gimme a holler.by Myndale - Australia, Melbourne RUG
The RepRap site suggests silicon grease because it doesn't eat through plastic, I found some at the Rolling Bearings Company in Braeside although at $40 it was a bit pricey. I think I saw some other silicon based lubricants in Bunnings that were a lot cheaper. Silicon spray supposedly works fine too, you can find that as petrol stations and any shops that sell auto-transmission gear (it's used onby Myndale - Australia, Melbourne RUG
I've become somewhat of an expert at cleaning out a jammed JHead, I had to do it about half a dozen times before I figured out how to prevent it. Possible causes include: - Letting your temperature get too high. Particularly important with PLA, I've had it cause a jam when heated to as low as 240 degrees. Here's what gets left behind in your extruder when you let that happen: - Debris being draby Myndale - Australia, Melbourne RUG
I'd probably just whip something up on breadboard myself. Feed your voltage through the thermistor and a resistor and tap the voltage at the middle to get the temperature reading, call this A: +5V ----- THERMISTOR ----- 4k7 RESISTOR ----- GND | A Next hook your power across a potentiometer and tap the middle pin to get a reference voltage (temperatby Myndale - Australia, Melbourne RUG
The 6mm linear bearings I bought off a Chinese EBay seller for my mini-Prusa were terrible. The first one I tried, all the balls fell out as soon as I put it on the rod. The rest seem to be holding together but they run REALLY rough. I've tried oiling them, I've tried silicon grease, I've tried smoothing the rod, I've tried 5 minutes of running them along the rod in the hope that they settle downby Myndale - Australia, Melbourne RUG
Sounds like the drive current on your drivers is set too high, you generally want to set it as low as possible but not so low that you start losing steps. In any case hot steppers are not an uncommon problem, particularly on X and Y which are typically running at high speed constantly. A lot of people "solve" it with small fans over the steppers.by Myndale - Australia, Melbourne RUG
Anyone else seen the mini-lathe instructable that was posted to Make today? Wondering if something like this would be good enough for making hot ends? A cheap PC power supply of the type often used for a Mendel would easily provide 12V @ 10A.by Myndale - Australia, Melbourne RUG
I bought all my pieces separately. I had to get my RP bits and hot end from overseas, and I ordered the belts, steppers and stepper drivers from elsewhere in Australia. Everything else I sourced locally.by Myndale - Australia, Melbourne RUG
You're in the right place, meet-ups are typically discussed and announced on this forum. In the past Cefiar has usually been the one to organize and host them but we've outgrown his garage so there's been talk about hiring a venue for the next one. Welcome to RepRap btw. Fair warning, it can turn into a bit of an obsession if you're not carefulby Myndale - Australia, Melbourne RUG
There does indeed seem to be a delay in deliveries from the US at the moment, I work for a large corporation and we're currently seeing deliveries from China taking a few days while ones from the US are taking weeks. Dunno why, but it's been like that for at least a couple of months now. I use the toner transfer method for all my PCBs (including my Repic board) but I'm not sure it's the best thiby Myndale - Australia, Melbourne RUG
Another back-up option is to make your own PCB heat bed using a PCB blank (Jaycar, $19.95) which you etch with either ferric chloride (Dick Smith, ~$15) or ammonium persulphate (Jaycar, $12.95). From my tests drawing a line across a the Jaycar PCB with the thicker end of a DVD marker pen results in an etched trace that is about 1 ohm per 75cm. Draw 30 of these across a 20x20cm plate and connectby Myndale - Australia, Melbourne RUG
I made mine using 9 12-ohm wire-wound resistors attached to the underside of an aluminium plate with JB-Weld, all of which you can buy from Jaycar for about $20. If you want it regulated (e.g. for PLA) then you'll need to add a few bucks extra for a thermistor from RS Components, and maybe a few more for a relay + regulator electronics if your board can't drive the bed directly. Or you could jusby Myndale - Australia, Melbourne RUG
Got any photos? I always like seeing the quality of other people's prints.by Myndale - Australia, Melbourne RUG
Throwing in a "me too" re Lybina, their ABS was great and as a company I found them very helpful. I had one bad batch of PLA through Vik, some teal that reportedly came from him resulted in very untidy prints that caused my extruder to spit out large globs of fluid which dried to a crusty, flaky mess. His red and green, on the other hand, all printed brilliantly, and his yellow, blue and purpleby Myndale - Australia, Melbourne RUG
I'm not aware of any locals supplying either hot ends or complete RP sets myself. One of things I've been working on is trying to make hot ends from locally sourced components. BOC sell standard pitch M6 brass nozzles with a hole down the middle of them that are very easy to drill out, even by hand (the hole helps guide the drill bit). They're rated at 6mm but I reckon they're closer to 8, easyby Myndale - Australia, Melbourne RUG
Late to the party here....I've been printing with a J-head for some months nowby Myndale - Australia, Melbourne RUG
I experienced several problems getting this piece to work: 1) As I mentioned on Thingiverse my Herringbone extruder didn't fit. The gear for this extruder dips below the base of the main block and hits the carriage. I solved it by printing out a small 5mm riser, although I vaguely remember seeing somewhere that someone has released an alternate design with this modification built in? 2) The thrby Myndale - General Mendel Topics
There's a list of Australian suppliers on the wiki: Personally I've bought BZP rod from both Keables and Metro Bolts and they've both worked well, although the stuff from Cost Less Bolts looked good too. Most important thing to make sure it's really straight when you buy it because even a small wobble can cause the sides of your printed pieces to oscillate slightly every 3 or 4 layers.by Myndale - Australia, Melbourne RUG
Metric is the standard for threaded rod here, although you will find SAE around as well at places like Bunnings (don't use Bunnings rod though, it's galvanized steel which looks terrible and jams in the nuts).by Myndale - Australia, Melbourne RUG