Quotesungod3k Hi, I got a request to print a cosplay helmet for someone, but I dont want to sand PLA, or bondo such complex structures. Im familar with the polysmooth system and im thinking about building a bigger polysher --> but i wonder if there isnt a generally accepted better way or maybe a new material that i havent heard of that sands better than PLA? Cheer F I recently did a fuby wildone - General
I purchased a new board with included display to upgrade my printer from an MKS Gen L V1.0 8 bit board to a newer 32 bit board. Board: BigTreeTech SKR Mini E3 V3.0 Display: BigTreeTech TFT35 E3 V3.0.1 BTT sells this as a unit. Marlin firmware has a default firmware already built for this board Firmware-Ender3.bin, so I am sure the firmware can be properly built for it. My issue is that my priby wildone - General
QuoteLee *** I would like to order 500mm of the following extrusion manufactured by MiSUMi Japan. EFS6-30300 MiSUMi will not sell this extrusion in the USA. I need a supplier that can ship it to me in the U.S.A. If anyone knows of a supplier that can process this order for me it would be appreciated. Thanks. slf Try hereby wildone - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Quotesircastor Hello All, I have owned a scaled up self-built kossel mini for a very long time (700mm tall, 360mm extrusions), and I've been slowly upgrading various features on it. I've had a 310mm round Borosilicate glass bed to print on, supported by FSRs. This has worked fine for me as I've printed exclusively PLA, but I'm ready to try some other materials and have been interested in printiby wildone - Delta Machines
QuoteGaou Quotedc42 @Gaou please check that you have set up your delta printer like this: X tower on the left Y tower on the right Z tower at the back i got X on the left Z on the right and Y tower on the back.. Is this what is causing the mirrorring ? if so can i remap the drives through firmware ? edit: i remmaped the drives but it wasnt a good idea as there is no option of remmaping theby wildone - Delta Machines
Z steps per mm seem off. I have a delta and mine uses the same steps/mm for X, Y, & Z. You also said that the X & Y dimensions are ~5% undersized so calibration is obviously not correct in any dimension.. I don't use auto calibration so cannot speak to the differences between manual & auto calibration, but mine is spot on in all 3 dimensions. My controller is a Makerbase MKS gen Lby wildone - Printing
In general, once the controller board smokes it should be replaced. With that said, the cause should be investigated and fixed. There is a thermistor on the hot end whose signal is used by the board to turn on & off the heater for the hot end. A failed thermistor could lead to a constantly on heater (if the firmware does not turn it off). A constantly on heater would cause over heatingby wildone - Reprappers
Quotethe_digital_dentist @4ndy you wouldn't be wasting a perfectly good circuit board, you'd be freeing it up for another project that needs stepper motor drivers and a gcode interpreter. Maybe something like this: If you search through posts here from several years ago, there were a LOT of problems with sending gcode via USB to printer controller boards. Printers would stop and stutter whilby wildone - General
Quote4ndy An upgrade would be possible but undesirable for now. I want to avoid wasting perfectly serviceable circuit-boards given the huge amount of energy that goes into mining and processing the materials for them. Also I prefer to have the desktop GUI of things like Pronterface, so using this netbook would be ideal for me. I don't like faffing around with a rotary input and menus. Can anyoneby wildone - General
That is a pressure sensitive pad that can be used as a Z limit when calibrating & bed leveling. I use the same thing on my delta as Z-min limit.by wildone - General New Machines Topics
I realize this is a bit late, but here and here are guides I use to do manual calibration and bed leveling.by wildone - Delta Machines
Since I have never had any luck with the auto leveling and calibration feature of the HE3D K280 printer I do it all manually as I said above. This is one of the guides I discovered and this is another one.by wildone - Delta Machines
I managed to locate this for calibration. I also always use repetier firmware and if it works on your board then it is easy to do. I expect you would want to use the 0.91 or 0.92 versions there. Then arduino works for compiling and uploading the firmware. I personally have never had luck with the marlin firmware so cannot help there.by wildone - Delta Machines
Just an update, Mike. Note that I had to do nothing with wiring, changing stepper directions, etc. when using this firmware on the default board. Thus, if you have already made changes to the wiring to the motors you should likely change it back to the original so it works properly. The only issue I have had with direction was with the extruder when I changed from the default extruder to the gby wildone - Delta Machines
QuoteMikeCL Yeah that part worked right now I’m trying to dial in the printer it looks like the nozzle is too close trying to adjust on the fly is not a good as I had with the anet a8 the extruder is skipping at some parts but not all if I lower the bed too much then it just make the ridges on the first layer but not that high to be air printing. Mike, Sorry to be late to this, I have the sameby wildone - Delta Machines
QuoteGaou Guys i need some help. My nozzle is higher on the edges of the bed than it is on the center. Is it an effector thing or is it something else on delta printers that i am not aware of ? is it possible wrong settings on the configuration file causing this ? i do have an ir differential probe but since the tilt is big i dont know how helpfull would be to install. The problem you describeby wildone - Delta Machines
Quoteqrp-gaijin My MKS GEN L v1.0 board finally arrived, and I was immediately able to upload my self-compiled Marlin 2.0 onto the board, with no hassles. I was happy to see that I could upload firmware and test the endstops without needing to connect the 12V power supply -- the power supplied over the USB cable was sufficient to power the microcontroller. Next, I want to test the motors, whichby wildone - Reprappers
I had already done the M119 for each limit switch and the results were as expected. Don't know quite what I changed but I got it working so Thanks for the input.by wildone - Reprappers
You could do like is done on the delta printers and attach it to some location on the frame like this on my HE3D printer. That will prevent it shifting around and possibly having the gears catch on something.by wildone - Reprappers
QuoteDragonFire The most effective ways I've found to quieten a fan are;- 1) Paint all the surfaces to reduce drag. Be careful not to get any paint inside the fan. 2) Give it an overnight soak in WD40, drain, shake and dry thorouhly before plugging in. You are aware I hope that WD40 is a penetrating oil lubricant. It is a viscous oil thinned generously with a solvent so it penetrates well. Tby wildone - General
I have an HE3D K280 and have never been happy with doing auto bed leveling or calibration. I do everything manually using Repetier-Host. I have the end stops on the towers set as close as possible to the same height, so the head is centered when homed. In repetier I have the scripts set as follows to give me points 120 mm from the center near each tower. If you do not have the same size bed yoby wildone - Delta Machines
I have the K280 as well, using repetier firmware. Your description of the "freeze" after the first layer is reminiscent of what mine does if I do not edit the gcode file. I use the "set and wait" feature of temps for the heaters and found that there are 2 things of concern when using different temps for first layer and the rest of the print. "Set and wait" on the bed (M190) waits for the temp toby wildone - Delta Machines
First things first. With my printer I set the nozzle to "paper thin" so the paper has to be pulled to move it. Then I back off the height to allow 0.1 mm additional clearance. I then print the first layer at 0.3 layer height with 200% first layer width. (I use slic3r separately from the printer control since I like repetier-host for printing) My temps are set at 55 for the bed, 210 for first lby wildone - Delta Machines
I just purchased and built an HE3D K280 delta printer. The build went reasonably well and (almost) everything works. This uses a Makerboard MKS Gen 1 V1.0 controller with repetier firmware. Home is at the top of the gantry, and everything seems fine until I send it home. It seems the limit switches are not stopping the travel so when it reaches the top the steppers continue to try to move theby wildone - Reprappers
Thank you for your words of wisdom. After I read your reply I thought about what all had been done and realized that initially I may have been running cura as root from the cli after installing cura from the ultimaker site. When the printer problem started I removed the ultimaker version and installed the fedora version that can be run from the gui so it was then running as my user. That is wheby wildone - Printing
I apologize if this is posted in the wrong location. Please move it if needed. Recently I purchased a (used) printrbot play, I use linux on my PC I installed the cura software for printing and was able to print several items with no issues. So far so good. After a short time, when I tried printing another item the printer hung indicating no heat on the extruder. Research showed that this mightby wildone - Printing