I did notice it's better to use the hide function for a surface instead of deleting it because there is no risk of unhiding adding a new internal surface.by pvwebb - 3D Design tools
Thanks for options.by pvwebb - 3D Design tools
One of the biggest challenges with 3D-drawings is internal surfaces unintentionally formed that cause slicing not to work properly. This is using SketchUp Pro, slicing with Slic3r, and printing with a Reprap X400. Eliminating lines unnecessary to form the outside surfaces helps, but this may not eliminate all the internal surfaces which can be hard to see even with an x-ray view. It often takes dby pvwebb - 3D Design tools
Checked with dental office and found out that some dentist in the U.S. are already using the technology in the above link.by pvwebb - General
If the right filament material is available, it seems practical for dentist to 3D print temporary crowns. Multiple images of the tooth to crown could be used for a 3D scan. Custom software or settings would probably make the software finish in less time. A 3D-printed temporary crown would probably take less work to get it to fit properly. Anyone know of development to do this? This probablyby pvwebb - General
Dust is correct. We assume you have a way of separating lack of extrude stepper movement from a clogged extruder. When you start a print, the extruder will go to the home position and wait for the extruder and bed to reach set temperatures. Of course, if the extruder temperature is set too low to melt the filament, it cannot extrude.by pvwebb - Reprappers
I'm getting wavy lines on the first layer only in both the x and y direction identically. The first layer is 0.4 mm with a 0.4 mm tip. I've tried changing the Z offset all the way from -1.2 to 0.5 mm. I've tried changing the hot end leveling the heated bed. None of these changes affected the wavy lines. The waves have about a 1 mm period. The printer is a German RipRap. The material is ABS. The hby pvwebb - Reprappers
The part causing the hot point failure was the connector for the heater and sensor. The connector showed no sign of burns on the heater pins, but the square tubes (see attached image) accommodating pins from the other connector had started to straighten out toward its original sheet metal state due to heating from current. Bending the tubes back in place allowed the connector to work temporarilby pvwebb - Reprappers
The modification in the attachment on the previous comment worked well. A 6 mm brim worked, which was 1/5th of the original brim.by pvwebb - Reprappers
The circles gave me the idea to fill in the area of concern with a single layer (see attached). This will allow for a small brim.by pvwebb - Reprappers
When the brim started out with sharp turns, the brim would not adhere to the bed on the sharp turns. Attached is the part of the brim with sharp turns.by pvwebb - Reprappers
As shown in attached image, when making the brim for sharp turns, one can expand the brim until the brim starts out as smooth, then builds up to the sharp turns. This made it much easier for the brim to adhere to the bed on the turns.by pvwebb - Reprappers
To prevent clogs when changing filament, I start with the hotend cold, turn on the heater, and start pulling on the filament, so that the old filament comes at the lowest temperature possible. This tends to minimize the amount of filament left in the hot end. When the hot end reaches temperature, I can add the new filament. PLA tends to carbonize and clog the tip if left hot too long withoutby pvwebb - Reprappers
I'm trying to verify the correct hotend heater for a Reprap x400 Pro V3. I know a 12 V 40 W doesn't work. A working heater measures 4.4 Ω, so I'm guessing it is a 12 V 30 W heater. When I tried replacing a non-functioning hotend heater on a German Reprap X400 V3 with a new 12V 40W heater that heater also wouldn't heat. My guess is the circuitry shut off due to overcurrent. The thermistor temperby pvwebb - Reprappers