ya weird, I have the php code in my signature profile in control but it doesnt showby ECSuyu - Canada, Fraser Valley B.C. RUG
Looks like Im going to be good to go for this meet edit: is it just me or does my signature not show up. if it doesnt what format do you guys put it inby ECSuyu - Canada, Fraser Valley B.C. RUG
I print ABS with kapton on 2mm glass at 120C and its perfect. After my prints I let it cool down to 100C and blow some air on the edges and it comes out without any effort or warping on the parts. No hammer is needed, When i used to print with the nozzle at a lower starting height I had that issue. distance between nozzle and bed should be 2 copy paper thickness.by ECSuyu - Reprappers
Hopefully I can make it, caught the flu. Will update you guys as it gets closeby ECSuyu - Canada, Fraser Valley B.C. RUG
Ill be there, though will have to take off after 1-2 hrsby ECSuyu - Canada, Fraser Valley B.C. RUG
Even at that price its a great deal and much appreciated! especially all the work you'd have to put into organizing it. I'll send you a PM in a bit with what I wantby ECSuyu - Canada, Fraser Valley B.C. RUG
Just to clarify as I'm a little confused by the pricing, if we take the stepstick one for example it would cost for 4 drivers a total of $37 to get it assembled so that would be $9.25/ea for a fully assembled stepstick board? Do these come with heatsinks for the chip as well?. regardless prices are pretty good.by ECSuyu - Canada, Fraser Valley B.C. RUG
I'll be interested in 4 of the stepsticks but I too have no way of soldering the chips onto them.by ECSuyu - Canada, Fraser Valley B.C. RUG
yup i think the 22 should be good and it'll bring us back on track to wednesday meetsby ECSuyu - Canada, Fraser Valley B.C. RUG
I think we can see Johns build party coming up as the next week?by ECSuyu - Canada, Fraser Valley B.C. RUG
Ive called a few places on that list, for non profit the prices are 10.56 but when asked about using it along with "machines" and having electricity added prices go up pretty fast.by ECSuyu - Canada, Fraser Valley B.C. RUG
I can only smell the fumes if I put my head directly above the extruderby ECSuyu - General
aw man, its too bad your not making up RAMPS boards or else Id be all over it. If you dont mind me asking where are you getting these guys made?by ECSuyu - Canada, Fraser Valley B.C. RUG
how big is the piece brad, I have the techzone one that I can let you borrow if you want it should be more than enough power for PLAby ECSuyu - Canada, Fraser Valley B.C. RUG
Hey guys, Im here to confirm the time. I'm going to assume this meet is happening at the same time as usual? 7pm?by ECSuyu - Canada, Fraser Valley B.C. RUG
anyone can come, but the meets are taking place at a boston pizza, so no machines will be there. Lots of printed parts though to pass around to check out print quality and etc.by ECSuyu - Canada, Fraser Valley B.C. RUG
my bad Brad, the 11th sounds good. So I guess all thats left is to find a location to bring our machines/ work on machinesby ECSuyu - Canada, Fraser Valley B.C. RUG
Hey guys, Hope everyone had a great holiday til this point and a little more to come as the new years approaches. 2012! a new year for seeing how the FV group will grow! So I guess since nothing is set in stone for the next meet I'm here to ask when it should be. I'm flexible as long as there is a date set a few days ahead of time. I would prefer 2nd week of Jan, so that's during the dates of 9-by ECSuyu - Canada, Fraser Valley B.C. RUG
I currently use 14 gauge wires for the HBP, I take 2 of the yellows from the molex (14awg with tinning fits snug in there) and 2 wires from the negative of HBP to the RAMPS D8 negative terminal. If your PSU has 2 rails make sure the RAMPS and HBP are on seperate rails with 10A per rail. Check your PSUs wires, sometimes manufactures use a color banded yellow wire for 12V1 and a solid yellow wireby ECSuyu - RAMPS Electronics
I believe even with aluminium/steel plates you'll need to have the frame joints to be at least 3/8"-1/2" thick per section before you will be able to gain the strength from going this route. Thing sheets of both would still rock back and forth from the momentum that gets generated by the X and Y carriage moving. Especially once you start to hit speeds of 80mm/s+. The flex in the mendel machinesby ECSuyu - Canada, Fraser Valley B.C. RUG
Counterclock wise is min, what I usually do is turn them all down to min and then adjust them until the point that they can start moving. I do this by sending move commands to the motors until I see them move while turning the trimpot at the same time. If done right it'll lower the noise level from your motors while they are running and it'll also make them run cooler. I find myself adding a fanby ECSuyu - Reprappers
Im going to have to agree with Brad with this, The sells was probably the most rigid mendel variant machine out there without added hardware like cross beams. The prusa alone flexes quite a bit on the frame, just simply putting a finger on the top vertices and pushing you'll see and feel the frame move. The best is to do what Brad has suggested with the cross brace for the Prusa, not the best lby ECSuyu - Canada, Fraser Valley B.C. RUG
I guess I'll ask one of the most obvious questions did you turn the trimpot all the way down first before testing/using them? When you were using them did you install heatsinks onto the chip to help dissipate the heat? The stepsticks do get hot so without cooling of some kind they'll burn up under the heat they generate.by ECSuyu - Reprappers
Hey Bobby, I'm the one who is placing a group buy for the Jheads. It might be short noticed but please contact me via PM if you are interested in buying a J Head nozzle. Unfortunately I we had placed a deadline of sunday (tomorrow) to get all the orders in so I can get made and shipped. Eugeneby ECSuyu - Canada, Fraser Valley B.C. RUG
the way you advertise a2aprinter makes me not want to buy from now. Be more honest and just advertise properly in the sells forum.....and stop pretending to be a satisfied customer....I think we've all had enough of itby ECSuyu - General
I have used a modified version of 5D before on my gen3 though I cant remember if there is any dependency on having the endstops attached before the axis will move in the negative direction to prevent crashes from homing. The fact that is moved only in the + direction would probably mean theres something set in place for the endstops. since you have RAMPS I would probably suggest using either sprby ECSuyu - General
In an attempt to try and figure out how to cool my prints so I eliminate the curling I get on some small parts I totally forgot to try scaling last night. Seems RepGs GUI makes it easy to understand as opposed to doing it from openSCADby ECSuyu - Canada, Fraser Valley B.C. RUG
The Jhead works great, I actually just switched to it recently and without any tweaks in my software I was getting some pretty amazing prints. here are some prints of the calibration pyramid at 50mm/s and the cooling tab in SF set to 10 seconds on slow down. the first two (left,mid) were printed a few weeks ago with DIY hotend with mixshop heater block. the right is printed on the Jheadby ECSuyu - Reprappers
brnrd Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Question for those printing at 40 mm/s and faster: > What is your nozzle size? I'm printing with a > 0.5mm nozzle. > > With my Mendel, I'm still convinced that my > quality suffer above 30 mm/s not because of frame > vibrations but because the extruder is not keeping > up with the head/bed movement. I'by ECSuyu - General