Got a footprint built for oval pads. It looks like a winner. I also added a second footprint for the heater FET's to fit IPAK transistors because I bought a bunch of these for 17 cents each. They work fine in my Gen7 V1.3 board for the hot end. Haven't tried them with a heated bed yet. IPAK is 90 mil spacing instead of 100 so I had to drill the board out quite a bit to get them in. I also routeby bryanandaimee - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
I like Gen7 mostly because it's DIY. I don't think the performance is any different from the other boards out there. If you like sprinter make sure to go with 16Mhz and 644p not standard 644.by bryanandaimee - Sanguino(lolu)
So going from the nearest full step position (disabled) to the last microstep setting should always get you back to the pre-disable position.by bryanandaimee - Developers
I think gen7T will fill that niche fairly well if it works out. The drivers are TB6560 through hole chips.by bryanandaimee - Controllers
Looks good. I didn't do that footprint from scratch, it's just a ZIP24 with an added pin. I think your version is much better. Data sheet says pins are .55 +/- .1 so up to .65, and looks like a drill of .25 mill is suggested, so .3 should work.by bryanandaimee - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Yes, and I'm wondering if this design will eventually need to be a double sided design just for current carrying issues, but we'll see how it goes.by bryanandaimee - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
So here's my first attempt at a Gen7 Toshiba branch. Suggestions are welcome. I'll try to test it sometime soon. May be a couple weeks before I get it etched and built.by bryanandaimee - Developers
Well here's a first attempt. I have a github account now (bryanandaimee) It is completely untested. I'll try to etch one and test it sometime soon.by bryanandaimee - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Couple other things to try. It looks like you are using ATX power supplies. Do you have a good load on 5V? On many supplies you need a 2 amp load or more to get it to settle down and work well. It depends too on the load you have on 12V. If you have a high wattage HBP drawing lots of watts off the 12V line you may need proportionally more load on 5V. Also try other baud rates. I find on my Geby bryanandaimee - Sanguino(lolu)
The absolute cheapest solution is likely to be a Gen7 board you etch yourself and scrounge as many parts as you can from your junk box. Next cheapest is likely Sanguinololu, buy a board and populate it with scrounged components. You'll still have to buy the pololu drivers, but that is common across nearly all the DIY electronics solutions. With RAMPS you have to buy the arduino and add the RAMPSby bryanandaimee - General
Yes it does, but from reading the datasheet on the toshiba drivers it appears that the state is saved and even updates with the step input while disabled, so as long as you don't pulse the step line while disabled you should come back up upon enabling to the microstep position you were last at. I don't know what the pololu drivers do but I imagine similar functionality is fairly common across steby bryanandaimee - Developers
Hmm, the thing is these drivers pretty much require either large numbers of between pin tracks or a double sided board. I don't think I could get a single sided design with a reasonable number of jumpers. I still might be able to do it with toner transfer. I'll try it out once I get the heaters and serial port wired.by bryanandaimee - Developers
You could use 7.5 degree motors without a problem on the Z axis if you can get enough torqe. Z is geared way lower already due to the threaded rod arrangement so no real need to gear those down even at 7.5 degree steps. With 1/16th microstepping you might even be OK to use them on X or Y but You only get 80 steps per mm using 1/16th stepping on 1.8 degree motors so you'd be down to around 10 stepby bryanandaimee - General
Mouser has the toshibas for$2.83 in those quantities, and where do you get Pololu's for $8.80, is there a supplier of pololu drivers that is cheaper than pololu? ($9.71 qty 100) Re separate drivers, I've seen AKA47's driver circuit, haven't seen the one you mentioned yet, but I'm aiming for a low price point so I don't think that would work for my project. An integrated electronics will bring tby bryanandaimee - Developers
As for Z, I thought the same thing at first, but now I'm not so sure. It looks to me like the drivers retain microstepping position while disabled, so that they come back to the last position upon enabling again as long as the step line hasn't been pulsed while disabled. So I'm thinking that disabling Z between layers is a lossless strategy too. Re Gen7T, I am designing in eagle because that'sby bryanandaimee - Developers
The point is to have cheap integrated drivers in a through hole board that should be easy for a DIY repraper to put together. The main reason is to avoid the cost associated with the Pololu drivers. There are plenty of boards with integrated drivers, but they all use surface mount components so they are generally sold assembled. I would like an electronics that could be sold as a kit for $50 inclby bryanandaimee - Developers
So I'm working on a toshiba TB6560AHQ driver based electronics and I thought it might be useful to connect the torque control pins to the 644p, but I don't want to use 8 pins to do full control of all 4 drivers. With one line controlling both torque pins on the driver I can get 100% or 20% torque. With two lines I can get 100%, 75%, 50%, and 20%, with corresponding current draw. So here's the queby bryanandaimee - Developers
This is for all you firmware developers out there. I'm working on a toshiba driver/ 644p based electronics, and after working through PWM issues with Repetier on Gen7 which required a change to the firmware to use PWM on Gen7 which uses timer 0 for the heaters. Looking at the other 644 based electronics, Gen6 uses timer 2 and sanguinololu uses 1 and 2 or just 1 depending on version. So here's thby bryanandaimee - Developers
For the near future (Repetier firmware V 0.41) if you want Repetier firmware to do PWM heater control on Gen7 you'll need to refer to this post. Or you can just turn off PWM and do on/off control, but temps are far more stable with PWM. Changes will go into the next revision and then you won't have to change code to get it to work. .by bryanandaimee - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
That did it. Temps are rock steady now. Thanks repetier Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Hi, > > you have two possible solutions. You can use > SIMULATE_PWM in version 0.41 or you switch the > timer usage for timer 0, which gives you hardware > pwm for timer 0, which is the better solution. To > do so, go into repetier.h line 42 and changeby bryanandaimee - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
OK so I have to turn off PWM to get my Gen7 board to control the heaters. That makes sense as the firmware states that timer 0 and 1 used elsewhere and Gen7 is using Pins B3 and B4 which are on Timer 0. I assume Sanguinololu has a similar situation since it uses Pins D4 and D5 which are on Timer 1. But just in case I missed something, is there a way to use PWM on those pins?by bryanandaimee - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
With the atmega removed the gates of the FETs will float so that is likely what you would expect from that configuration.by bryanandaimee - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Standard suggestion for axis movement is to check your endstop setup. Make sure they are connected and working, and setup in firmware. Is LED 4 the standby led or the power led? The standby LED is always on, and the power LED is on when ATX powers up. I don't know if RepG is running well with Teacup or not, you might try pronterface.by bryanandaimee - Firmware - mainstream and related support
You need a thermistor.h file. You can copy and rename the thermistor.gen7.h just like you did with config.gen7.h. Bryanby bryanandaimee - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Pololu drivers might be turned down too low, or software/firmware might be pushing too fast for the steppers to follow. Try turning up the current on the drivers, and turning down the max speed in the firmware. Also make sure your steps per mm is correct.by bryanandaimee - General
That did it. Thanks.by bryanandaimee - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
Yep, that's what I have at 1/16th stepping. Still a good idea to check with a ruler when you get it moving.by bryanandaimee - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Here are my Gen7 enabled configuration and pins files. They work fine as far as I have tested them. I've tested all the motors, the extruder temp control and homing with min end stops. I printed a partial print with it but I need to tweak the speed and acceleration settings and floss my hobbed bolt before I get good prints. It's freaky fast. I couldn't get the gcode viewer to display anythinby bryanandaimee - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
Might be a mismatch between your slicing sfw and your firmwares absolute vs relative setting.by bryanandaimee - General Mendel Topics
- 14 years agoI agree that a single design will make it more likely someone will decide to incorporate it into their bot. I'm not sure how to go about that other than just suggesting the designers get together and hash out the compromise. Alternatively we could all just hack on our own designs, borrowing from each other until enough people have tried them out that a consensus emerges. I think adoption will likby bryanandaimee - Developers