Connect a 10W 5 ohm power resistor between 5V and ground (Red to black) or a 5-12V light bulb or anything that will draw at least an amp at 5V. I just went to the hardware store and got a couple 12V 50W light bulb with pins sticking out that can be wedged into the molex connector. They draw a couple amps at 5V.by bryanandaimee - Controllers
If you're using an ATX supply it might be too little load on the 5V line. I had motor vibration and communication issues until I put a better load on 5V. If you measure the 12V line as you add more load to 5V you will see the voltage get closer to 12V the more the 5V line is loaded down. 12V 50W light bulbs sold for accent lighting have pins sticking out that will fit between the case and sby bryanandaimee - Controllers
Of course an ATX supply will have most of it's rated power on the 3.3V and 5V lines so 600 watt is really only 200 watt or so on the 12 V line. You don't have to mount connectors to power supply case as in the instructions, you can just connect a yellow wire and a black wire to the supply input of the gen6 board. Yellow is +12V and black is ground. You will also likely need more of a load on theby bryanandaimee - Controllers
I think it's more that while it's an old model, we now have a large enough community to make it work. And of course the brilliant design and execution of the contest itself helped.by bryanandaimee - Developers
- 14 years agoAnd it's all over. Results are up on the wiki page.by bryanandaimee - Developers
Check for cold solder joints on the serial pins, try powering the board off the USB rather than ATX (ie. move the power jumper to the one close to the USB-Serial connection), try restarting the computer. Try a ferrite ring or cylinder on the USB cable to help with EMI. If you have a rather large ferite ring you can wind it around a couple times to increase the EMI filtering. Load the ATX supplyby bryanandaimee - Controllers
The toshiba driver aka47 is using has torque control. It uses two control lines per driver to set 20, 50, 75, or 100% torque. For Z you might just use one pin to control both lines and get either 20 or 100% torque. I'm not sure how useful it would be for other axes though since they're almost always moving.by bryanandaimee - Reprappers
Sounds good. I'll give it a try.by bryanandaimee - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
Does the firmware work on 20 Mhz boards like Gen7 with a 20Mhz crystal? I know some firmware's use libraries that require 16 Mhz crystals. I looked at configuration.h but didn't see a place to specify speed like in teacup. Is it in some other file?by bryanandaimee - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
Try pronterface, It will be easier to debug connection issues as there are fewer settings you have to set. Also it gives confirmation of a connection before you start jogging axes. Main things to check would be baud rate settings in both firmware and software, com port settings in software matching the port you are plugged into, solder joints on the board, possibly driver issues with the USB to sby bryanandaimee - Reprappers
OK theoretically yes, but practically would it really make a difference to let Z lose or gain a half step per layer? (everybody's doing it I currently have my Z axis set to half stepping and I need 283 steps (half steps) per mm. So to lose one half step will kill the accuracy of my layer height by +/- 1/283 of a mm or .0035 mm. That's about 1% error for a 0.4 mm layer height and 2% for 0.2 mm heby bryanandaimee - Reprappers
If the motors are enabled they will still get hot even when not moving. Mostly the Z axis is the only one that is disabled between moves, and the others are enabled all the time unless you specifically disable them. Depends a bit on firmware and electronics. If you can turn the motors easily they are disabled, if not they will heat up. Not a big deal unless they overheat, and the drivers should bby bryanandaimee - Reprappers
I think pronterface/SFACT does not home in Gcode for each object. I always set my temp, wait for temps to stabilize, and home the bot before starting a print. If you want it to home before each print, you can put it in the start.gcode.by bryanandaimee - Reprappers
OK sorry for the detour, here are a couple more I didn't see on your list sumpod.com though I'm not sure how long it will take to fill orders from the three initial indegogo campaigns and start selling from the web site or what the price will be. though now that they are done with the indiegogo campaign you may only be able to buy wholesale lots of 10 or more from them now.by bryanandaimee - General
@Malx I was actually thinking "viable" in terms of the many people already running CNC machines on a parallel port who might be a market for this kind of machine, but since you bring it up, how is a $15 PCI or PCI express card that adds a parallel port to your shiny new computer that much different from the $15 USB to serial adapter that adds a serial port? And not to start a flame war or anythinby bryanandaimee - General
No problem, and good luck!by bryanandaimee - General
OK so the world has passed me by and it is actually harder than I thought to find a modern desktop motherboard with a parallel port. My two year old ASUS core 2 duo motherboard has one as well as a header for a plain vanilla serial connection. But while you are amazed at all my old computers that actually have a parallel port on the motherboard, you and I are down-converting that shiny new USB coby bryanandaimee - General
Seems like I saw similar symptoms with mine, and vibrating of the axes as they jogged. Most of the problem was due to a very imbalanced load on the ATX supply. I assume you have an ATX supply. You really need to load the 5V line quite a bit to get reliable operation. Here are my numbers for ATX voltages under different loads. As you can see it takes quite a bit more than just the 10 ohm 10 wby bryanandaimee - General
Check that your slicer and firmware are both set to either relative or absolute coordinates. If one is set different from the other it can cause the extruder to move backwards at times. And maybe try different software just in case that is the problem. Pronterface is pretty easy to work with.by bryanandaimee - Reprappers
Yes you should be able to wire your hotend to the HBP or secondary hotend control and then set that as your primary extruder in the firmware. See the config.h file of your firmware for the settings. You may also want to double check that you have the right pins defined in there for the current extruder connection, and check that you don't have the thermistor or hotend connected to the wrong inputby bryanandaimee - Reprappers
I think all the new slicers use steps per mm to mean mm of filament. It used to be mm of extruded plastic, but that meant you had to recalibrate everything if you changed layer height or speed or anything. You may want to check the absolute vs relative settings in your firmware and skeinforge. I just got things running and I thought I had a problem with volumetric vs. old time extrusion issues buby bryanandaimee - Reprappers
I would suggest SFACT for beginners, I think there are instructions on the pronterface page or maybe the SFACT website. It is actually pretty much skeinforge with simplification. It just gets dumped into a folder in the pronterface directory somewhere. Then to slice, you just open an STL file in pronterface and it runs SFACT automagically. Also once you are ready for tuning remember to check theby bryanandaimee - General
My suggestion would be to load the teacup gen7 branch firmware. 1. Get Gen7 support for arduino and stick the folder in the hardware folder. 2. Select your gen7 config in arduino. 3. Get Teacup gen7 branch. Unpack it and then kill the extra numbers and letters in the name of the innermost folder so it reads the same as the pde file. (Arduino needs to see a pde file in the same named folder)by bryanandaimee - General
You are not tied to Mach3. EMC2 is also listed which is open source and free. I'm sure they'll be able to figure out how to run the extruder. It's really just another axis. You can look here to see some others that have used EMC2 on a CNC repstrap : So for those who like the CNC paradigm and have a parallel port on their computer (almost everyone?) $350 would be the total cost to get started.by bryanandaimee - General
And in general any 100 K negative temp coefficient thermistor will work if it is rated to 300 C. You may have to change the temperature conversion table in firmware to get really accurate readings though.by bryanandaimee - Huxley
Seems like there should be a way to calibrate lash that way too but I can't figure out how to do it with just one sensor per axis. The forward lash and the backward lash always cancel out in my head.by bryanandaimee - Developers
Likely the easiest thing to do is run the makerbot firmware and replicatorg.by bryanandaimee - General Mendel Topics
I think Josef is the perfect guy to write a reprap for beginners book, and I wish him well. I don't see the problem with someone putting their own name on their own design. I can't imagine many newbs getting the wrong idea about the design considering that the wiki page is pretty clear that the Prusa Mendel is a simplification of the Sells mendel structure and axes. And once they are done buildby bryanandaimee - General Mendel Topics
I guess I should have said any Negative Temperature Coefficient (NTC) 100 k ohm thermistor will work. You may have to do a custom table to get accurate readings if yours is not on the list. But you would still get something in the ballpark even without a custom table.by bryanandaimee - General Mendel Topics
Any thermistor will work. It just makes it easier if there is already a thermistor temp conversion table for it.by bryanandaimee - General Mendel Topics